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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by COBAUM, Aug 17, 2006.
The KLX650C and KLX650R have different foot peg mounts.
Maybe too late if you've already decided, but I did say I'd post some pics...
I know you already know what the 250 looks like, but included them so you can get a sense of scale between the two.
Note that this is a 650C model - you may already know, but the C model did not have kick start, where the R/A model does, and they may be different in the mount, I don't know.
Hope this helps you.
Great pics. Thanks! Looks like the 650 offsets the pegs 2 inches further back than the 250 and the rise looks to be about the same. Just what I need. Ebay here I come!
Question though - what's with the extra framework welded to the mount? Looks like some sort of guard or something. Some 650 mounts have them and some don't.
Almost always, but have not had cable issues. The original cable gave up the ghost about 14 months ago. I currently ride about 40 miles round trip to work in Austin traffic, so the clutch gets a good workout
Cool. I just must have gotten a bad cable. It pulled the lead "nub" off the engine side after about 4 months of easy riding. Thanks
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If some other wonder
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The extra framework is just a guard to keep your boot off the clutch cover, or keep it from getting wedged between the footpeg and clutch. Looking at eBay, the C models have this and the R models don't. The R models also have a more squared profile on the right peg, wich would likely suit the kickstart better for you. The C model guard might also interfere with the kickstart, but I don't think it would pose much of a problem removing if you went that route, though the rest of the C model shape might not work well with a kickstart.
I stole this pic - you can see the more squared profile of the R model with kickstart; very similar to the '06/'07 250 profile.
That is exactly how my original cable failed. This s really strange; it may in fact be a defect.
Thanks for all your help. I bought mount off of ebay that's the kind without the guard. I'll post up what some conclusions when I have a go at attaching it.
Utah, I just stole the right side footpeg from my 650R for my 250. While I haven't mounted it (need to pull the skid plate off the 250) they look like they have identical mounting holes and bolts. And obviously the off set for a kick start lever.
I hope for both our sakes that it is a true swap.
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Darned new internet deleted half my post!
Just picked this up and am hoping to Rally Prep her a little for long distance trail riding.
Runs terrible though, wont start easily and once running will not restart. I am hoping the bodged K&N filter inside the airbox is to blame. And careful set up of tick over will help.
Front caliper also locks on when it gets hot. Suspecting aftermarket braided hose to be the culprit of that, master cylinder does not look original either.
Below collecting her from the old owner, and yes it fell off on the way home due to cavalier driving attitude and single ratchet strap but she is home now. Let the fettling begin!
If anyone has an aftermarket can, airfilter and interesting Rally Gear for sale do let me know.
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In my experience, the starting ability is all in the idle speed adjust. (if the slide is set to stop too high (too much air), starting is a bitch). I don't think it is your air filter, but rather a clogged pilot jet. Mine is now a one kick start. Every time.
Will have my chap check that out, thanks.
Sorry boys, yeah that was a while ago. and like most things I failed to follow up on the post.
so here are some more pics. The 4 legs were bolted into place before taking it into town to get someone to alloy weld it in place with out moving them.
All KLX sub frame will crack over time from either jumping the bike or humping a load, You must provide rubber mounts to where it attaches to the frame. I carry about 40 to 50 kg on both my bikes rear guards and they have never cracked also with subframe strengthening.
Drill an 8mm hole straight through the seat mounting hole and bolt the rubber mounts on the outside with the bolt going through from the inside after you bore some plastic outta the way, tight area, use allen head screws.
Seat mount bolt area.
Rear mount at rear blinker / indicator area.
See thread here
Now I see where your best post go . Great project.
Don't forget about the TEAM KLX homepage,
Hey guys, I'm a sportbike rider at heart, with two First Gen R6's and a little collection of CBR and R6 motors littering my garage. I've been craving a dualsport in the upper range for adventuring, just picked up this guy for a small sum.
Not a whole lot of info from the previous owner, he claimed he was going to pull the motor and put it in a Honda Odyssey (the gokart not the van) But never got around to it. Sold as a non runner. What a mess.. the whole bike was partially disassembled but he had all the important parts so I took the plunge.
She's undergoing restoration. lucky me the motor was sealed up and rotates smoothly with good compression. Only seems to have a hand full of electrical gremlins from a haphazard harness removal attempt.
One thing I'm curious about, is the front wheel rim has jukyard paint pen markings "KX500" and the forks are blue... I know my ignition doesn't mount to the triple clamps so I'm lead to believe that the bike was wrecked and repaired with a KX500 front end (43mm Forks). As I have no idea what modifications were done to make it work out, any one want to chime in on advantages/disadvantages of this swap?