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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by COBAUM, Aug 17, 2006.
Bring on the miles....I'm ready!
Yeah, I was thinking of taking a trip to OZ one of these days and thought I may ask you to go for a ride...but...without that 2ccs, I just don't know man.
Very nice. You have a "c" right? I have been stacking all kinds of crap on my R seat to make it feel a little better than sitting on a road cone.
WHY? :eek1 Not argumentative, just asking, Do to the fact it is alloy?
I call mine a 680 all the time. If it was a KTM it would be a 700
But it is not a 685, which could cause some one to believe that the KLR piston is an option. It is not.
The alloy would be to thin and at that thin would not be strong enough, would break the skirt off the barrell. cast iron can handle it and the "C" barrell liner is a tat thicker in the wall.
Thats good to know. I did say I wasn't sure. I got my piston from http://www.lasleeve.com/master.html Since they do custom work, It looks like I could make it a big as I want, if I wanted to spend the money.
I envy you guys with machinist skills.
Na, I'm just good with a grinder and a mallet. If I'm doing really precision work, I use a rubber mallet.
Hey Burner, I just sent my seat away too. Over the last few years I have spent Thousands of $$$$ on my bike and riding gear but every trip is spoilt by the stock seat. I can just get 500 kms of riding in for the day then I get off and I'm in megga pain. The guy who is doing my seat wanted a pic of me standing up front on, one from the side, one sitting on the bike where I like to sit, my weight, my height and where my ass bone sit on the seat by marking them then a measurement from the back of the seat to the back of my ass. He said the seat must run in for 1500 klms, no lambs wool seat cover and absolutly no fat wallet in the back pocket when riding. He said he will put a block of dense memory foam in where I sit and after 1500 klms the shape of my ass will be in that seat for ever.
No more Monkey Butt. I will post a pic when I get it back.
A few years on now and look at the thread, well done guys, keep these bikes alive.
Yeah the owner of Fisher seats and saddlebags owns a KLX 650c, I stopped by the shop on a trip and sat on his bike and he took measurements of me and my girl on it. Mine is built out wider farther forward and back since I ride it 2up much of the time and I didn't want to compromise all day riding. Since it's wider up front it might inhibit the stand up solo riding but I don't care. I haven't seen the seat yet, should arrive at my house Tuesday, and hopefully I will be back home tuesday as well. Been gone for the last 2 weeks for my Beech 99 training. convenient that I didn't have to be home and missing out on riding because my seat was gone.
Okay guys...let my stroll by and give the dead horse one more kick. Chain tensioner... This morning I decided to just turn my factory one into a manual one. So I pulled it off, removed the spring, drilled it, tapped it, dug up a bolt the right length and installed the deal (easy stuff). I tightened it with my hand, rolled over the motor by hand a few times to get all the slack out and tightened it a little more by hand, as tight as I could get it by hand. I fire the bike up and it sounds great, the slight click it had has disappeared completely. My question is this...Can I get this too tight by hand? Not to put too fine a point on it, but I have a grip like a gorilla. That won't be enough to hurt anything would it? I really don't think so, I just wanted to make sure before I went out and rode it. Thanks.
I doubt you can over tight by hand, though I had an uncle who turned off water faucets that required a breaker bar to open.
I have the same fear, so I did mine incrementally. On start up, I got the chain noise, that was the time to screw it in just enough to stop the noise. It would come back, so a little more tightening. 1 year later I am good.
My procedure for initial setup was to do as you did, turn the motor by hand and tighten to get out any slop. Start the bike. Back it off to where it starts to click, then bring it in until the click just disappears. Works great!
You CAN get it too tight.
Thanks guys. I'm a bit of a worrier on stuff like this, so I'll re-do it. The bad thing about using the stock housing is it's ratchet mechanism. If I get it too tight (I probably did) then I have to pull it back out, release it and start over. Not a huge deal by any means, but I most certainly see how it would be easier with and after-market one. The reason I even asked about it being too tight is that the click was replaced by a whirring noise that just "sounds tight".
I'll just set it a hair loose and run it in until the click stops, sounds good to me.
Alright, it was too tight. I pulled it out set it back in, put it back together, tightened it a little, fired it up and just put enough tension to make it stop clicking. The difference in where it was at before and where it's at now is something I would consider substantial.
Heaps of engine parts you say?
Got any valve train stuff? I am pretty sure that I blew a valve, or a valve seat or something...I still haven't found the time to open the engine up yet. I'm waiting for a buddy to go on vacation from work and he wants to help me with it.
A few months ago I was just snooping around Ebay and sore a "C" model cylinder head, it did not have the top half of the cam tunnell so I bought it anyway for $50, when it turned up I unwrapped it to check out its condition and guess what it turned up with the cam tunnell complete. Mint condition. So if I make a race engine I will need that head to make a complete "C" model engine to fit into my bike.
Bargan, sorry, don't mean to tease. Keep searching ebay and not just in your country.
There are 8 tanks still avaialable for the KLX650R, they are on there way and will arrive on the 1st of September. Is does not say it on their website but they will ship WORLDWIDE. but you need to email them and work it out. Don't miss out. $349.00, Contact MX1 Australia.
Care to give me the name of the guy doing your seat, I need some work done, I'm not far from you.
The rear axle didnt work on the Flywheel Fogo. Its too small a dia. Guess I will just buy a puller.