Kombi Instrument Cluster - Swearing and Repairing

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Reaver, May 7, 2014.

  1. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    OK Roy.

    Here's the inside of your speedo driver. The little red gear is the motor, then the intermediate gear and then on the right, the speedo shaft and gear. Everything is dry, no lube. I would suspect a manufacturing defect in yours or some other type of damage. Possibly a bad connection or software issues. You can disassemble the driver by unclipping the four tabs easy enough. The only part that falls out is the intermediate gear and it has to be installed right side up to work. The tiny gear on the hub is visible below the red gear and it is correct in the pic. It was easy enough to reassemble.

    Good luck in your troubleshooting.




    [​IMG]
    #21
  2. Roy Barnes

    Roy Barnes Riding for the SON

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    I guess I will just live with it as the gps tell the speed. I have over 100,000 miles on the bike. Started to stick when in the sun, but now it sticks all the time.:cry
    #22
  3. FredRydr

    FredRydr Danger: Keep Back 500 Ft.

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    I just noticed that my tach needle was going no higher than 1,000 RPM. :huh

    Well, I knew I'd have to revisit familiar territory, so I took the Kombi unit off the bike and removed the front cover. I reconnected the Kombi to the harness and messed about with the gauge face hoping to find a sweet spot, but every time I pressed the cover back into place and turned on the ignition switch, the tach needle would bind. :hmmmmm

    Finally, I carefully pulled the tach needle off its shaft using needle-nose pliers. There is a little metal band around the underside of the needle; I cannot be sure if it functions as a bushing, but I was contemplating wiping a tiny drop of liquid silicon on it. But before I took that step, I saw that the tach's shaft from the circuit board was ever so slightly off-center through the white plastic reflector housing, the part that I had replaced. I loosened the three T-7 screws and pressed the white plastic reflector in the direction I wanted, then I screwed the three screws tight. The shaft was now centered.

    I replaced the needle, pressed the cover into place, turned on the ignition, and the tach needle properly swept all the way up to the redline! :clap

    Fred
    #23
  4. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    You did all this yourself? No experts were consulted?

    Impressive.



    :rofl
    #24
  5. FredRydr

    FredRydr Danger: Keep Back 500 Ft.

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    May the innards of your Kombi melt the next time you turn your key.

    Fred

    P.S. Is it a bushing?
    #25
  6. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Still sore over us not trading for the Saab?
    #26
  7. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Or as we would say in Denmark... " May your a$$ itch, and arms be too short."
    #27
  8. FredRydr

    FredRydr Danger: Keep Back 500 Ft.

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    Or as Johnny Carson once said, "May the sewers of Rangoon back up into your breakfast."

    Fred
    #28
  9. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    Don't let the Federal Government know you're messing with a speedometer...the IRS, DOT, DOD, EPA, ICC and Homeland Security may target you for a fine or worse. :deal
    #29
  10. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Just an update on my China Kombi Kase.

    I put about 1200 kms on the repaired gauges with the replacement case from China. I noticed that I was getting condensation inside the glass occasionally. Also when cold, the LCD display showed "waves" like when you bend an LCD display or push on a calculator screen. If you know what a calculator was. I disassembled the unit again and trimmed the plastic posts a hair to remove some clamping force on the LCD. I'm thinking maybe the halves were being held apart by the LCD interference and maybe the gasket wasn't tight enough causing both issues. I'll reassemble it and put silicone on the seam. I already put the face in water to check the glass for leaks. Seems ok.

    As for the used gauge reprogramming, the Dealer CAN't do this. They tried for 2 hours, failed and didn't charge me.

    However, the code was cracked by the underground resistance forces and my repaired gauges work like they're supposed to now with proper ABS function and TPMS readouts. :clap

    The Gauge Reprogramming thread is HERE.
    #30
  11. matho...

    matho... Μιά ζωή OnOffάς!

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    Well,I'm thinking of changing the black faces of my F800GS 2010 model with new one white colour,here they are :deal
    So,is that easy to remove the instruments and remove the gauge faces?
    I'd like also to ask if there is any special way or maybe I have to attend to anything on removing the needles and then after put the new gauge faces on installing the needles back.Is there any aligment point I have to know?
    Thanks:1drink
    #31
  12. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Hi Costas.

    If you go through the post you can get your answers but by wading through it all so I'll sum it up for you better.

    First, when you turn your key on and after the test, you will see both needles point to 0. That's where you want to end up when you're done.

    Remove the windscreen to access the back of the gauges.

    Remove the 3 clips holding the gauges to the frame and carefully wiggle it up. Put a cloth under the gauges because you will drop the clips and never find at least one!

    Squeeze the tabs to unplug the gauges and now they're free so you can start.

    Remove the 7 screws holding the plastic cases together.

    CAREFULLY pry the case apart without damaging it. The rubber gasket will make it stick together like glue.

    Now you can change the faces.

    Turn the needles all the way to the bottom, below 0 and note where they sit. Maybe put a mark on the white plastic.

    The needles are press fit so CAREFULLY pull them straight off without breaking them or marking the old face.

    The speedo face will now come off.

    The tach has the clear plastic lens in the way. See the pic. Squeeze the tabs together and pull out. Some are easy, some not. You might be able to wiggle it out without squeezing the plastic and risk breaking it. Now the tach face will come off.

    Swap faces to the whites.

    IMPORTANT PART!

    Put the needles back on so they point to the marks you made, just lightly, not fully pressed on. Only enough so they don't fall off. Do NOT install the top cover yet! Now plug the gauges back in and turn the key. When it settles, make sure both needles are at 0. If not, with the key OFF, rotate the needle to the left or right as required until you hit the internal stop, then move the needle a bit further. Key on and check. When you're satisfied with the needle positions, push them all the way down onto the shaft. Check for 0 one last time. Should be in the same position as in the beginning.

    When you're happy, unplug the gauges and put the top cover on with the 7 screws and put it all back together.

    Take your time. It's not hard but the pars are delicate and you can't buy them. I gave away all my spare parts already.

    Good luck.
    #32
  13. matho...

    matho... Μιά ζωή OnOffάς!

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    Hi again.Thanks A LOT for your detailed step-by-step answer and help.That's EXACTLY what I need to make it.:clap
    When I finally make it I'll take some pics and post'em here.:0-0 If I do not post......maybe it's going wrong way... :lol3:rofl
    Thanks:thumb
    #33
  14. matho...

    matho... Μιά ζωή OnOffάς!

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    Just installed the white gauges faces few days ago...I like them
    [​IMG]
    I think it's much better looking ,especially for the white F8...
    [​IMG]
    And of cource a special thanks for the helping by friends here :clap

    Well..I'm looking of them,just wondering...:ear I see on the original faces' backside that they have a "strange material" I don't know what is this...see the pictures(I have them in hi-res to help you see better the detail of what I'm trying to say)
    So,this is the front side of the original gauges
    http://i.imgur.com/LLgEkI9.jpg

    and this is it,the back side of them
    http://i.imgur.com/4vBGvaY.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/cExP72D.jpg

    do anyone have an idea what is this white surface or "tape" that BMW has installed there? Is that for best lighting reason or what?Is that to catch the light and bright better?
    I am asking because the original faces have more and clear light at night than the white ones I just installed.And I'm thinking if I can install something or maybe a paint,spray or anything like that to increase more bright colour(light).
    Could anyone help on this?:deal Thanks
    #34
  15. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    It looks great there! Nope, I got nuthin' on your question. You've lost a lot of contrast with a white face. I'd just live with it myself.
    #35
  16. matho...

    matho... Μιά ζωή OnOffάς!

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    Finally I couldn't live with that loose contrast...:freaky So after some discussion with the very helpful and proffesional seller,we found it.So from now on I have them improved and better than ever.:clap
    [​IMG]

    And this is how it looks in contrast with the stock...I reeeeeeeeally like them a lot.:clap:clap:clap
    [​IMG]
    #36
    Loutre likes this.
  17. Reginaldo BR

    Reginaldo BR n00b

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    Hello guys! I'm from Brazil and have a F800GS than 3 LED 's that illuminate the display burned and as in Brazil concessionaires not fix it and a new panel costs about 6 minimum wage of a Brazilian worker , I'm running after exchange these LEDs burned.
    Well, do not comment in the forum more 'm always on the lookout for posts last week and divulged my problem on the page of the F800GS and a boy sent the link of this page and being of great help to me.
    Had taken the back panel cover, which checked the LED burned and a technical friend in electronics will help me to weld and remove the display . Thanks to Reaver know how to remove the display to make the switch the LED 's. But I am now researching which the LED model that is used to illuminate the display .
    I will posting updates about my problem.
    I apologize if some phrase out out of context because my English is very bad and I'm using Google translator .
    #37
  18. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Hola amigo! Cómo estás? Estoy viviendo en Costa Rica y ahora estoy estudiando español . Estoy feliz de que te guste mi post.

    My used gauges came from Brazil. Paid $300 USD. It was a private sale, not a business. Good luck with your repair!
    #38
  19. Reginaldo BR

    Reginaldo BR n00b

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    Hello guys! I came to say that my friend was able to make the switch from the display LEDs . We made a short video tutorial where we explain the process. Unfortunately I narrated in Portuguese more I think most will be able to understand the images.
    Once you post the video on youtube , I return here to share with you .
    #39
  20. Reginaldo BR

    Reginaldo BR n00b

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    Hello guys! As promised, follows the video I made explaining how to exchange the burned display LEDs ; noting that the process for changing any other LED panel is the same.
    I hope you like it and how not to speak in the English language , was in Portuguese of Brazil.
    #40