KTM 450-530 Wont Start With E-Starter Problem - Torque limiter Fix How To Article

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Hodakaguy, Mar 11, 2011.

  1. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider

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    Would be interesting to see what was changed between the two part numbers. Thanks for the heads up :thumb

    Hodakaguy
    #21
  2. Capp

    Capp Resident

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    About to replace the oil pump shaft and gears myself. Just waiting on the oil pump cover that has been backordered. Should be here next week. I also ordered the 125 oil jet as the 08s came with 100. More oil for the crank.
    #22
  3. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider

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    Yep a good upgrade for the 08's on the oil jet, I'll add that to the oil pump upgrade thread when I revise it with the updated shaft. :thumb

    Hodakaguy
    #23
  4. PLATAPUS RIDER

    PLATAPUS RIDER n00b

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    Hello Hodaka Guy,

    I ride a 2011 530EXC. I need to remove my inner clutch cover in order to helicoil the stripped out gear oil sight hole. It appears that once I remove the brake lever and kick starter, and loosen the bottom radiator hose from the water pump assembly, the entire cover comes off as one. Is that correct? Do I need to remove the water pump and outer clutch cover first, or can they stay on? You've posted really clear pictures, but it's hard to tell for sure.

    My local shop wasn't much help with this. They're reluctant to give advice to a DIY mechanic. Any advice you can give me is appreciated.
    #24
  5. akarob

    akarob Green Cantern

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    Your question is off topic, but I'll help you out. Your easiest fix will be to use JB Weld to glue that screw in place. It's not necessary to set the level of the tranny oil that precisely. It takes almost exactly one quart. Just add that much oil and be done with it. No need to check.
    #25
  6. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider

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    If you decide to remove the clutch cover it's pretty simple, no need to remove the water pump cover. Just remove the kick starter, brake lever and water pump coolant hose...then remove the bolts. The whole cover will just slide off. When re-installing the cover take your time and don't force it...if it doesn't want to slide back on easily move the water pump gear a tiny bit and try again until it slides on without hanging up. :thumb

    On a side note I like to torque everything to spec but don't try and torque the oil fill bolt for the trans...it will strip. I just snug it up lightly by hand and call it good.

    Hodakaguy
    #26
  7. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

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    Huh,so I guess its the clutch drag causing the Torque limiter to not allow the engine to spin hard enough? My 2011 530 starts instantly unless its in gear with the clutch in.
    #27
  8. akarob

    akarob Green Cantern

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    No, it is independant of the clutch. I fixed my starter using this guide. It was very easy.
    #28
  9. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

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    Im still in the dark then,why does it turn over and start real easy in neutral?
    And then not start in gear with the clutch in?
    How is the torque limiter affected by clutch drag?

    I was also wondering,if it does pop back on starting,and the torque limiter doesnt limit torque as intended,what then?

    Im mechaniclly curious
    #29
  10. akarob

    akarob Green Cantern

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    Well, mine wouldn't start whether it was in neutral or not. Perhaps your torque limiter is still good enough to work in neutral. The clutch does add a certain amount of drag to the system, even when the bike is warm and the lever is pulled in.

    Tightening it is easy once you get it out. About a quarter turn or so will do it. I was even able to re-use the cover gasket, although I had a new one on hand in case it ripped.
    #30
  11. ARZ

    ARZ Adventurer

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    I know this is quite a late post, but I solidly solved this issue, so I wanted to share.

    Dont bother with a Helicoil, Buy a Timesert set for the proper size fastener. The Previous owner of my 08 was a Gorilla, and retapped that hole out to a 1/4-20, and then drilled out a shitty stainless washer and left the burrs on the inside diameter. Second time I checked the oil, installing that bolt it stripped out with almost NO pressure at all.

    I removed the cover from the bike as explained in this thread. Since the 1/4-20 SAE thread was now stripped out, I had even less material to work with. I scuffed and cleaned the inside in the area affected, and I built up the area with JB weld, let it set up a day and drilled and tapped for the proper size Timesert, I had borrowed a Timesert kit and installed the proper threaded insert and VOILA it was fixed.

    For those that dont know, a Timesert is similar to a Helicoil, (This is of MUCH HIGHER QUALITY than a helicoil, and much more re-usable) except it is one solid threaded insert, with a very shallow shoulder. The shoulder side goes outboard, and the inside diameter of the Timesert is only fully threaded for the outboard 3/4 of the depth. The final install tool is a thread roll-former style tap, with a slight triangle shape to it. When you thread this tool into the Timesert it stops at the 3/4 depth, then you put locktite on the outside of the Timesert, and install it in your prepped hole. Once the shoulder bottoms out, the roll-former tap starts to create resistance and form the last 1/4 of the inboard threads. This effectivly creates an interference bell shape in the hole and keeps the Timesert in the hole because it has been EXPANDED into the hole on the inboard side. This also keeps the Timesert from backing out as the roll-former tap has created perfect threads and is usually easily removed with your fingers. This creates a MUCH more reusable hole than the Helicoil, and also increases the strength of the original hole.
    #31
  12. guns&coffee

    guns&coffee Gnarly!

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    So far tightening the T.L. didn't help. The bolt for the kick starter was seized, so I have to go back in for that eventually with a new shaft. Is it possible the T.L. could wear out? Mine was not very difficult to turn. Does using a Rekluse clutch also solve this?
    #32
  13. akarob

    akarob Green Cantern

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    I tried tightening mine. It didn't work for long. So far the replacement part has been working well.
    #33
  14. guns&coffee

    guns&coffee Gnarly!

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    Cool, thanks
    #34
  15. Shawnspeed

    Shawnspeed Been here awhile

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    I have a new to me 2009 450 SX-F. The bike has had an issue starting in gear but it got really bad after a couple of days of Jimmy Lewis school. Now it won't even roll in gear with clutch pulled in (changed the fluid before the school trip).

    I'll bleed the clutch cylinder but is the torque limiter a problem on the SX-F as well?

    What about the oil pump gear and shaft upgrade?

    Shawn
    Phoenix
    #35
  16. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider

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    It is possible for a clutch to be to worn out to be saved. Tightening mine did the trick and worked perfectly for the next 150hrs.

    Hodakaguy
    #36
  17. akarob

    akarob Green Cantern

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    Sounds fixed to me. :-)
    #37
  18. ryaw25

    ryaw25 n00b

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    Not sure how alive this thread still is, but I wanted to note that on my 2014 450 xc-f I was able to remove the torque limiter without removing the inner clutch cover, I didn't drain my oil or coolant, simply laid the bike on its side using a stand and took off the outer clutch cover and removed everything from the basket up. The torque limiter was right there and I was able to pull it up and out without any issues. Unfortunately I broke a tooth on it attempting to adjust it, I couldn't get the thing to move at all. I have a new one coming through my local dealer at $108. Hopefully this solves my issues, as I cannot start the bike at all due to the limiter slipping so much. Wish I had a kick starter...
    #38
    zap84 likes this.
  19. zap84

    zap84 n00b

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    It worked for me

    Sent from my R7g using Tapatalk
    #39