KTM 525 EXC as an Adventure Bike

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Karnage, Jan 31, 2007.

  1. MadOgre

    MadOgre Adventurer

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    Uintah Basin Utah
    I have a similar bike, the MXC. I only have one problem with it. It doesn't have/need a key. This makes parking it anywhere rather stressful.
  2. mookymoo

    mookymoo Mookish Mook

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    Either UK or Australia ...
    Sicass racing do keyswitches
  3. Tusker

    Tusker Been here awhile

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    Apr 13, 2007
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    847
    Location:
    Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

    I'm very interested in this light setup, but can't find any information on it; where/how to buy, etc. Anyone know how I can learn a bit more?
  4. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    there's your answer then.
  5. clapped_r6

    clapped_r6 The Spoad Warrior

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    :pot

    seriously tho, who's running the TT stator AND the HT Racing cooler together? probs? idle voltage? etc
  6. bhorocks

    bhorocks Been here awhile

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    Phoenix az
    Man thats sooo much money though for cooler and stator.... Anyone want to sell their ht cooler?

    Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
  7. lq9crew

    lq9crew Adventurer

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    I used the rear bolt on the bar clamp for the front brake master cylinder. Looks like hell, totally out of the way.
  8. Rabbot

    Rabbot rain+superbike=adventure

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    Jul 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    563
    Location:
    Asheville NC
    For those worried about the oil change interval, a good friend of mine and myself are changing everything, oil and both filters, every 20 hours. Oil looks dark in the pail, but on closer inspection it is clear enough to read through. :deal Mine will use about an ounce in that 20 hour period. Some, maybe all, of it is coming out the counter sprocket shaft. I plan to fix that over the winter.

    We both have 17's and knobs so they are seeing a little bit of everything. I've got almost 6000 miles on mine and she has just over 13k. Before you say oh she's a girl, know she is very fast. Whips up on the boys all the time. She is the fastest person around here and is why I ride with her. If I get caught daydreaming, I'm looking for tenths to reel her back in. My "A enduro" days are over, but I'm no slouch. I live and ride in the southeast. I question the need for the oil cooler. I don't even run the fan. I've never overheated.
  9. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    On a RTW ride - next stop USA!
    Send Paul an email to

    ns_c (at) sbcglobal.net



    How many hours / miles on it?
  10. hizzo3

    hizzo3 Adventurer

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    May 7, 2012
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    99
    20 hours is about 700- 1400 miles. For a light weight adventure bike, I would want closer to 2000, which is why I have interest in the HT oil cooler. More oil capacity = longer runs between oil changes with all other things equal. Even if it wasn't a cooler and just a resovoir, I would consider it.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
  11. CodyY

    CodyY ADVenture Capitalist

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    Fort Worth, TX
    I is.

    No probs here. Starts every time you hit the button. 60w headlight, fan, gps, heated grips, and helmet lights.

    :dunno
  12. team ftb

    team ftb Befuddled Adventurer

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    Location:
    Lost in the jungles of Thailand
    After 5 years of running my 525 w/HT cooler on DS rides I can feel the deterioration in the shifting quality from the motor once I'm much over the 1000 mile range. At the 1500 mile range the shifting notchiness is evident. Which in my uneducated eyes indicates the oil is not doing as good a job as it once did.

    This is a crappy pic of oil drained at about 1200 miles.

    [​IMG]

    2000 miles is asking a bit much according to my highly calibrated left toes:lol3. But I've never sent oil in for analysis so i could be waaaay off base.



    Here's my final drive shaft at 470 hours run without a cush hub and used for DS riding and motard use.

    [​IMG]
    <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class="dg-bbcode dg-bbcode-quote">Originally Posted by chippertheripper [​IMG]
    "The jury is still out on the Cush drive hub, for me. I ride my bike like an idiot (it's a race bike) and have yet to see the kind of wear pictured a few pages ago. Tread even lighter, that spline will last that much longer."

    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

    It's not mandatory as the damage usually takes awhile to surface but it does happen over time. The shaft is not an expensive part but installing it is not fun. If your chain is adjusted too tight you will accelerate the wear on the shaft.

    Crazybrit - HT cooler w/ TT stator and it has worked for me with no issues though I've never checked the volts.
  13. CodyY

    CodyY ADVenture Capitalist

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    Same here. 525 and 950 get notchy when the oil gets funky
  14. clapped_r6

    clapped_r6 The Spoad Warrior

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    good to hear. i really wanted both items to work together. cavematt like heated grips (cavematt eyeballing the new drop in headlight from sanjoh too, need DC for that anyways)

    nice. you don't happen to have a voltmeter, and see what kinda volts you're putting out at idle?
  15. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    So two have failed for me. It's not a difficult install. Both immediately after install (though I'd probably have not noticed unless i was actually measuring for a short).

    The first shorted (according to Trailtech) due to the metal wire clamp on the stator cutting through the pvc sheathing and through one of the yellow wires. Since this metal clamp is grounded ....

    This image is of my second one (which also failed, but I've yet to debug). Red annotation is Trailtech's showing where the first failed and how they were pondering it happened.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here it is installed:

    [​IMG]

    The metal cable clamp on the Trailtech holds the wire tight and the wire comes out at a different angle, versus the OEM (plastic).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is how the wire wants to route when the stator is dropped in, trailtech first, oem second

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    The cable on the Trailtech is pretty stiff. It doesn't really bend (unlike the ktm). You can see in the pics that it doesn't really want to follow the channel machined into the HT cover.

    Anyways, today I get to put the second in the oven and figure out where it's shorted. If it's the same place I'm going to remove the connectors and replace that section of pvc sheathing with some fiber the same as the ktm stator uses internally.
  16. CodyY

    CodyY ADVenture Capitalist

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    Dunno bro, mine dropped right in.

    No voltage readings but it's only weak if I don't keep the tender on the 5 year-old Battery. Once it's ran, she's ready to rock.

    Can't check right now, topend still apart cuz I'm broke
  17. hizzo3

    hizzo3 Adventurer

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    May 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    99
    That OEM is wound extremely messy. I've hand wound stators to rebuild them and get boosted output. While it is a pain, well worth it if you need the juice. Poor wounds = poor efficiency and lost wattage.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
  18. chippertheripper

    chippertheripper motorcycle junkie

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    Aside from the wires chaffing on the back of the oil cooler, I can't fathom the connection between one not working with the other...what am I missing?
  19. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    That's not an OEM wound. That's the crazybrit home wind v1 of an original KTM stator. The part of the wiring that's relevant to the above discussion (through the plastic wire clamp) is 100% stock/KTM.

    It works fine (no shorts :lol3) but I ended up following the Spokanister instructions online (max out each pole, albeit consistent winds per pole). As Luke posted here a while ago, that's not correct, he posted the correct #winds and it's less than max but more than stock.

    It's also possible that the lack of output is due to the messyness you mention, first time I've ever tried doing it.

    Either way, since I lack the time to do another rewind I bought the Trailtech.
  20. hizzo3

    hizzo3 Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
    99
    Sorry, didn't realize that was your first rewind. Then its understandable, and pretty good job for your first considering the task. My fingers hurt for days after my first few rewinds until I discovered popsicle sticks. If you wind again, remember that copper density is what gives you your amperage. That means tighter/neater coils around the ferro core, square wire, thicker wire, or if you can really handle the madness, use 1/2 gauge but run double wires per turn. Turns just equal voltage. If you need more idle umph, a few extra turns help but keep in mind voltage is linear with engine rpm, which means more turns means higher Max voltage.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2