Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Karnage, Jan 31, 2007.
I set everything up just like the directions said, but I haven't tried it out yet. My air filter was torn. Not sure how that happened.
I have to go to the KTM shop tomorrow to pick up a new air filter and a few more parts, then I'll see how it runs.
I got to ride my bike some today since I re-jetted it. When I turn the throttle real quick, it bogs a little. Even died a couple of times.
I can roll the throttle on a little slower and it comes to life. When the bike is moving and I stab at the throttle and it's pretty crisp.
What should I adjust?
It's set up exactly like the instructions said:
Red needle, 5th clip down, stock pilot, and 170 main.
I put the large o-ring on the accelerator pump, and put the spacer on the diaphragm.
On a side note, my tank came in today. Holy hell, that thing is HUGE.
Here it is from another angle.
I have the 6.6 gal tank, too, and it's really not that big when you get it on the bike. One thing that helps is that it's thin between your legs when standing, so it feels pretty normal.
I noticed in the picture that your chain looks extremely tight. You need to run it quite loose on these bikes or you will run into countershaft problems. Many guys take the shock out and adjust the chain by running the rear wheel through all it's travel to make sure you don't have a tight spot.
I adjusted it yesterday.
You even had me second guessing myself. It does look really tight in that picture. Maybe the angle...
I just went out in the garage and checked it.
When I first got the bike, I had to pull the shock off to remove the head pipe.
When I did that, I jacked up the swingarm where it was pointing right at the countershaft and adjusted it with 10mm of slack.
After I put the shock back on, I took the bike off of the stand and put 2 marks on my wrench so I'd know how much slack to leave
without having to remove the shock when it was time to adjust the chain again.
Good observation though. I have new sprockets and a chain ordered too, just in case you notice the piss poor condition my rear sprocket is in.
I had the same problem on my 525. Shoot JD an e-mail and he will give you an adjustment. It's been awhile and i can't remember what he told me, but it did work. I'll see if I can dig up the e-mail.
You need to adjust the timing and duration of the AC Pump"
Here is what works and it is easy to explain:
Lots of good info there. Thanks.
on my 07 there appears to be a decompression lever on the head. no cable attached, no provisions for it on the clutch.
vestigial? or does this actually have some use?
You don't really need it (it's not an LC4). You have the Brembo clutch. It's master cyl lacks the mount point for the decomp. For some reason they switched from Magura to Brembo for the 2007. Fiche is wrong, it still shows Magura slave on engine page. Handlebar controls page is correct, shows Brembo. Just remember you *must* use Brake Fluid. If you insist you can install the brembo hot start master cyl cover (oem or hardparts) and hot start lever (pm me if you want part#s) or loop a long zip tie through the connection on the side of the motor.
I put a Magura on my 07 as the Brembo had way more pull effort compared to my old 05 (even with one of the shorter cLever levers). Now have some minor slippage when pulling away in 1st in soft stuff, not sure what's going on. I measured the push rod and it's same as the (incorrect) engine fiche page.
My 07 RFS I've had since new has the magura clutch master with a single perch so maybe that was changed to brembo mid year like the locking lever I found out about the hard way (check yours, its a 10$ part that's easy to get to).
The 2007 has the internal auto decompression that's always worked flawlessly for me but some guys have used a zip tye on the engine lever to help clear it out, Maybe they crash a lot or ride in a bunch of water?
The 525's been surging a bit lately... someone suggested that the front sprocket might be hooked. Doesn't look bad enough to cause that though, does it?
^^^ Looks fine to me. Barely starting to break in.
Excellent. Thanks mate.
looks fine for a belt drive!
So I am riding a used exc520 2000 for about 3 months, and I have got a few questions.
1. As I have noticed, the engine is eating oil.. It could be about 100ml in 10 hours (I don't know exactly). I have noticed a little blue smoke too when standing and giving a throttle. Can you approximately say what parts I'll have to change?
2. Does the bike originally has a plastic chain guard?
3. How to correctly kickstart the bike and not pointlessly kick it? I have heard that it needs to find a specific stroke (or maybe tdc?) How to find and feel that state before kicking?
JD e-mailed me back this weekend with a few instructions.
The problem turned out to be the fuel screw. I only backed it out 1/4 turn more than it already was.
I can't believe how much difference that small adjustment made. Of course, the cooler temps (60 deg) probably helped too.
I got to put in some good riding today and when you whack the throttle right out of a berm, it's like being shot out of a cannon.
Super responsive. It's almost too much. Flat turns take some fine throttle control.
Well, I seem to be having carb issues on my 525. It has run perfectly since I got it, but began to develop an annoying bog off the bottom a few months ago. The bog got progressively worse to the point of killing the bike, so I pulled the bowl off the carb and cleaned everything as much as possible. I also took the opertunity to go ahead and adjust the valves/ service the bike.
Well, that didn't fix the issue. In fact, I had to limp home from a ride this weekend because the bog (off the bottom) got so bad it was killing the bike and flooding it. I can't imagaine this is a jetting issue, because the bike ran great before this began. I am thinking it's the AP, and plan to install the Honda diaphram this evening.
My question is, can the AP diaphram go bad? Or, if they get dirty, could it cause the bike to flood off the bottom? I'm thinking it could, because contaminants in the wrong place could cause the squirt duration to be off...but I don't know what the hell I'm talking about, so a little confirmation from someone who does would be helpful.
Also, I have read that a poor connection in the sprk plug boot can cause fits, but I can't see how that could be the culprit and be isolated to just off idle throttle.
Anyway, I'm drinking coffee and pondering the issue this morning. Thought? suggestions? heartfelt condolences?
When I emailed JD about the bogging problem I was having, he gave me a list of things to check. My problem ended up being simple and I was able to fix it just by adjusting the fuel screw. There was also a slight bit of corrosion in the diaphragm, so I cleaned it.
One of the things that he said might be an issue was a worn out diaphragm. So to answer your question, according to JD, yes, the diaphragm can go bad.
Awesome!Thanks for that. Hopefully I will know this evening.