Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by neduro, Apr 3, 2008.
Yeah, maybe. I've got one, but kinda forgot about it. Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Can someone refresh my memory. What are the stock fork and shock rates for the '08 + 450/530's. I'm getting conflicting info.
I just installed a Shorai last week on my 08 xcr-w. They claimed the battery was over 3lbs lighter than stock and would make the bike start stronger. So far I've been impressed. I purchased straight from Shorai's website and the battery came with extra foam shims for secure mounting.
Does anyone know the inside diameter of the fuel line? The piece that runs from the tank to the carb.
Gents, I just turned over 8K miles on my 530 while riding with DeepSea down in baja.
At the end of our trip I noticed that my front sprocket is looking wet from oil. Any ideas?
Is that as easy as removing the nut that holds on the sprocket and replacing the washer immediately underneath?? That seems too easy.
Will the tranny oil leak out when I pull that bolt? DD
Thanks!!. You guys are the best!
I noticed this today after riding my 450 XCRW some. Is this normal? It doesn't look like there should be a screw in that hole but could be. I'm new to KTM and I'm worried about this so some help would be very heart warming for me right now because I just got this bike and really don't want to have to break her down already.
<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=2v2ulbm" target="_blank"><img src="http://i42.tinypic.com/2v2ulbm.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>
That's the drain hole for the spark plug socket well. It's supposed to be like that so water that gets on the head can drain instead of pooling around the sparkplug.
Is that liquid water, oil or fuel?
If it is water it is nothing to worry about (could just be there from its last wash) , fuel could mean a lose spark plug, and oil could mean the tappit cover is leaking into the spark plug hole some how (OK so I'm grasping at straws with the last one, I doubt it is oil)...
Well it is the color or oil but if it is water why would it be black? Is this something I should be concerned about? Should I just replace the spark plug?
I am a 2 stroke guy. My four stroke philosophy is to keep throwing oil at it, then ride it till it blows, then you at least know what to fix, or your mechanic does....
You should check that the spark plug is not loose. Make sure it is tight and then clean off the gunk and ride it again. If it leaks again and you are sure it's not water getting in the spark plug cavity then you might want to check for oil leaks from within the valve cover.
Put my new Dirt Tricks CCT in last night hoping it would cure the ticking noise. It's still there and at this point I have no idea what it could be. I decided I'll live with it for now and just ride it. So today I took it out for a spin and ended up like this. :huh
In case you were wondering, getting it stuck in a creek did not cure the ticking noise.
So, this is probably the wrong SPECIFIC thread, but since the bike and frame is an '08 530, it seems as good as any.
I bought one of the very nice safari mondo tanker gas tanks, and it's served me pretty well over the years. Sure as heck it's helped many of my friends as much as myself..
My problem is that if I spend too much time in tight technical work or, say, stopped in line with the buds I end up boiling over.
Anyway, I finally picked up a fan kit a few weeks ago and got a catchtank on order. The fan part installed in moments and looks very nice..
You know where this is going, right? With the very nice fan kit installed, the stock tank fits fine, and I can GET the big tank on, but it's not right.. It really stresses the radiator forward and the wear point is the fan motor and the WIRING to the fan motor.
Everyone I talk to says, just heat the tank up till you can reform it a bit.. Okay - who REALLY knows how to do that? What material is the tank, technically and whats the pliable working temperature range I should be aiming for?
Is it likely I can get 10-12 square inches up to a working temperature that would let me permanently "dent" the material with a 1000 watt heat gun?
I have an IR temp meter with the little laser pointer, which is pretty cool if you ask me... Anyway, I'm confident I can accurately measure the surface temp at least.. But I have no idea what sort of working temperatures I should be aiming for and I'm not so confident a 1000 watt heat gun can get that much surface area into whatever the best working temperature might be.
I need to "depress" this area:
....about 1/2 to 3/4 inch - probably doesn't help to have the corner transition right there, but it's such a large radius that I don't think it'll be a big deal..
So, anyone more experienced than me have any thoughts or advice?
Thanks in advance!
I have the '09 with the same tank and fan. So far, no rubbing.
However, if I was going to heat it up, I would use a heat gun and hold it 8 or 10 inches away and slowly warm the area up then when it's hot enough, dimple it.
Now you got me worried--I should check mine for rubbing
Huh.. Well, mine clearly interferes - wonder if the tank guys modified their mold to make room?
Still looking for what sort of plastic it really is and what sort of working temp I'm looking for - I'm not quite prepared to just heat it up and push till I mistaken shove my thumb through it..