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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by neduro, Apr 3, 2008.
It varies with the lunacy of the rider,and oil changes count too.
300 hours seems doable,some go way further. Maybe best to budget for some work and hope for the best. From what I hear it's pretty easy to work on the top ends of the 08 and newer bikes.
give us some specs and warranty info for this lighting system.
Wattage and amp draw?
Is it dimmable with existing wiring?
Are there any Stator changes needed?
Do you need to add a rectifier?
...from their website...
Thanks for the specs.
No modifications are required on all EXC models 2008-2013
Will work with existing KTM light switch.
light output is 1800 Lumens and 4500 on high beam
max draw is 61 watt
Front glass is replaceable.
There is a warranty. They will try to fix the unit if there's a problem.
If not repairable they will replace the lamp.
Dust, water and mud resistant
thermal protection, over/under current protection and polarization protection
As far as other non EXC models I tried it on my US SPEC 2012 350 xcf-w that I brought here for the Enduro Panorama race and it worked although a hi/lo switch would need to be added since my bike has no factory high lo switch, just ON/Off switch. I just had it on the high setting but no other modifications were required.
There goes half my paycheck! Let my know when and where to send my money for that damn headlight!!! hahaha
Oh and I finished this install today. It stops me alright, I guess.
Nice bike BTW. It will look even sicker with our light.
my Paypal and my Email address is the same - email@example.com
I can also do CC
Shipping to Ma will be $12. No tax since I'm from IL
I could hopefully have it in your hands by June 4th.
I have the same kit with an upgraded rotor, mine has 100 miles on it, i'm thinking on selling for a really good price ( $1300 new ) if anyone is considering buying one PM me, not advertising in market yet because don't care if I sell or not but it will be half price.
I was going to ask if you really need all that much brake, but I see it's a SM setup . Bet it's a hell of a stopper.
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Thumbs DOWN for this:
NOT the company selling it, but the actual 'brake radiator'. Dumped the bike lightly and the entire body of the radiator slightly bent, thread body bent, complete loss of fluid for rear brakes on a ride.
Man I am STUCK! Need some help. I have the below setup
and I need a banjo bolt to replace the looong threaded black piece (it goes all the way through the banjo fitting and down the middle of the orange reservoir and into the caliper.
Problem> This long black fitting is bent, the threads tweaked so it holds no pressure at the caliper junction. I'd want to get a banjo bolt that could replaceall of this, and a setup that has the bleed screw would be even better.
HELP! What banjo could I get on a Saturday - size?
Can't be positive because mines an '08 but it says M10x1 for Item 11...did you get the parts book with your bike, in the suitcase?
I looked up your bike on Munnracing.com and it did not give the size.........
***Edit*** I see my parts book is out dated and the one above has been superceeded
"54813020000 BLEEDER SCREW CPL. 05 superceeded by 62513020000" which is the same as your 2010...so M10x1
Great - thanks! So would an M10x1 any ol banjo work?
I suspect so....the trick with any 'ol banjo is you won't have the bleed screw...that being said,
bleeding the system is gonna be messy and you may still be left with a spongy rear brake....
the other thing to consider is the length of the banjo bolt.
The M10 size is easy enough and the 1.0 is the thread pitch...I don't know how much the bolt
can go into the caliper without interference and still make a tight seal with the washers and line....
I'd try Autozone or similar....this one has the right size & thread pitch...
Ah,you've discovered the "bling" factor,shiny pieces of anodized aluminum that usually detract from function but seem like a good idea at the time.
Weve mostly all fell prey to this but it sucks to have bling end a ride.
I would think the stock banjo bolt is what you need.
Can you mount that little radiator chingadera on the other side of the banjo? Wouldn't conduct heat away from the caliper quite as well, but wouldn't be as likely to fail if it were installed that way either.
Could anyone offer any advice on why my '08 530 excr is not wanting to idle? Idle will race then drop and stall, I'll adjust idle screw, blip throttle, idle will hang then drop off; and repeat. Below I've attached a link to a youtube video of how it is acting. I'm stumped..
Bought the bike about 3 months back and desmogged and put the JD kit (175 main, 42 pilot, red needle 4th clip) in it. JD Fuel screw (1 1/2 turns out). It ran great for a while then it sat for a few weeks while I was traveling for work. I installed the BD Squadron headlight, floated the ground on the stator and installed their regulator (all in a kit). I've changed the plug, new airfilter, removed the carb and put all parts in ultrasonic cleaner.
Any suggestions before I take it somewhere?
Installed the samco thermo bypass kit, installed the samco t hose to radiators. Refilled the system up and after a 5 min ride and then 5-6 min idle in garage the overflow was puking coolant. Im thinking there is prob air in system not sure, whats best way to burp it?
Vacuum leak? if you had the carb off, maybe the boot between the carb and head isn't seated, or loose. Look for air leaks. That's where I'd start.
Just thought I would ask the stupid question. Did you plug the vacuum line on the intake when you desmogged? I have seen a few bikes that desmogged and let that line line vent to atmosphere. Not a good thing.
Sent with this high tech chingadera!