KTM 640 Adventure Instrument module problem

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by bmwktmbill, May 17, 2012.

  1. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Hello everyone.
    2002 KTM Adventure.
    I am having a problem with my trip reset function. It refuses to reset despite multiple presses on the reset rubber nub. All the other functions work, the fuel warning funcion is disconnected.

    Anyone got an idea for how to fix the problem or a link to a thread from the past that delt with the problem?

    Thanks in advance.
    bill
    #1
  2. Low594

    Low594 Adventuring Creep

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    If i recall this is the orange KTM unit, not the Touratech IMO 100R (see: utter crap) unit, right?! If so, I believe the 950/990 also used that one, so you might adjust your title. Sorry i dont have anything more useful!
    #2
  3. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    Hi Bill,

    I have had problems with mine in the past and did the following to get it working:
    I took the plastic cover off the display {4 screws} and sprayed the button posts with electro contact cleaner, worked the buttons and then turned it unit upside down to drain.... I did this several times and then allowed it to dry before replacing the cover to give it a try... Seemed to work every time but be care full only to spray the contact cleaner to the button post area....

    Good luck...
    David.
    #3
  4. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Thanks Gunner and all,
    I'm on it.
    bill
    #4
  5. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Gunner and all,
    Got around to this yesterday, popped the lens off-4 screws, from the front of the instrument(no need to remove it from the dash) and gave the button stalks a spray with dics brake cleaner.

    Bingo!!
    Started to work immediately.
    Cleaned the lens, etc, so nice to heve full function in the various modes back.

    Gunner is a genius!!!!
    bill
    #5
  6. Droptarotter

    Droptarotter Long timer

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    Guys...........be careful with Brake Cleaner, I do not think it is the same as Electonic Contact cleaner..............I have had Brake Clean eat some plastics!! YMMV??

    Cheers
    #6
  7. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Yes I took a chance with brake cleaner, sprayed it on some plastic first. It came with a plastic nozzle and a plastic spray tube for application

    I believe it is tetrachloethylene and is the same as electric motor cleaner supplied by CRC. CRC says it's the same stuff.

    This is what I used.

    http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?S=Y&PN=05089T

    MSDS sheet says it's the same.
    bill
    #7
  8. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Guys,
    Got another electrical/instrument problem.
    Intermitant tachometer operation and intermitant instrument lights operation.
    Lights dim, tach drops to zero, then everything starts back up, then it happens again.

    Nothing else appears to be affected, my headlight system is far from stock with HID's installed in both hi and lo beams run off relays etc.

    Seems like this is a grounding problem to me so I am on the search for a bad connection.

    The wiring diagram shows a massive ground connection point below and to the left of # 40 on the 640 LC4 Adventure wiring diagram and also a cround connection #13 and some combination plugs, #29 and 12 and 31.

    I will try to locate all of them.
    Am I on the right track?

    Anyone had this problem?

    TIA, bill
    #8
  9. It'sNotTheBike

    It'sNotTheBike Banned

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    Bill -

    It sounds like there are some pins in the cluster harness connector which need cleaning, and maybe the pins in the
    cluster itself also need cleaning. I'd guess the intermittent operation is due to the vibration of the bike causing contact
    to be made and broken. Obviously you want the contact not to be broken, so everything works properly.

    If there is a Radio Shack near you, they probably have some Deoxit in stock. The red stuff is what you want ;
    it is a cleaner which is mildly corrosive. Radio Shack usually sells it in a blister pack which also contains the
    gold Deoxit. It's good to use the gold Deoxit as the final step in the process, to prevent future corrosion.

    I like to use the red Deoxit as step 1 of a three step process. Spray the red Deoxit on
    the pins in the connectors and wait about 8 - 10 minutes ( use a stopwatch, you do not want to wait too
    long ). Step 2 : use CRC QD electrical cleaner to blast the pins clean. You should be able to buy the CRC
    QD at an Autozone or Advance Auto or any other decent auto parts store. The CRC QD is meant for cleaning
    electrical contacts, and it dries very quickly.

    IMPORTANT : You DO NOT want an open flame or any source of sparks nearby
    when you use the CRC QD. It is very flammable and has a very low flash point.

    Step 3 : spray the gold Deoxit on the connector pins, and reassemble the connectors,
    and test the instruments. Hopefully this will get you back in business.

    Whether you use the above potions or not, the idea is to clean oxidation off the
    electrical contacts in a manner which does no harm to the connectors. I have in the past
    used battery terminal cleaner spray instead of Deoxit, it works in a similar manner by
    chemically cleaning the crud off the terminals. But if you can get some Deoxit I'd use that.
    After cleaning you want to prevent the pins from corroding, which is best accomplished by
    applying something which will prevent oxidation to the pins.

    Given the far off riding you do on your 640, if you have time you might disconnect each electrical
    connector on the entire wiring harness and clean and treat the pins with anti-corrosion stuff.
    This could save you hassles when on a trip. Automatic transmission fluid could be used as a corrosion
    preventive if you have some handy. I like to use dielectric grease on some things, like the battery terminals
    and the starter terminals, but I have seen it cause poor connections in multi pin connectors because it is thick enough
    that it can prevent male and female pins from having good contact, so I prefer to use a light oil in those spots.


    .
    #9
  10. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    Hi Bill,
    Have a look at your key switch internals if you haven't already... The first time mine went I had similar symptoms as to what your getting...
    #10
  11. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Gunner,
    Key switch??
    That's the worst news yet. I would rather rebuild the engine!!

    Every motorcycle I touch needs the ignition switch disassembled.
    It's a guarenteed pain in the mind.
    Thanks to all.

    I'll dig ASAP.
    bill
    #11
  12. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Gunner,
    Ignition switch??
    That's the worst news yet. I would rather rebuild the engine(which BTW is running great after a quick thousand miles)!!

    Every motorcycle I touch needs the ignition switch disassembled.
    It's a guaranteed pain in the mind.

    Thanks for the pin cleaning tout Bike. I usually just squirt a little light oil on the connectors, plug and unplug and call it good. I know, I know...well at least they don't corrode.

    I'll dig ASAP and report back.
    bill
    #12
  13. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Hi everyone,
    The problem is getting worse, now the speedo operation is now affected as well as no dash lights and intermittant tachometer operation.

    I have serviced all the multi-plugs to no avail.
    Does anyone know the location of the multiple grounds for the instruments, etc. represented by the ground dot on the wiring diagram in the upper area of the wiring diagram located just below item # 40?

    I fear a grounding problem rather than a power problem.

    Can anyone help?

    I will have the tank off tonight and will report any results.

    I have not disassembled the ignition switch yet, I wanted to save that for last.
    I was unable to see an easy way to remove the ignition lock/switch.

    TIA,
    bill
    #13
  14. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    Hi Bill,

    You don't have to remove the whole ignition switch, just remove the bottom half that houses the electrical contacts... This is easily removed by taking out the 2 philliips screws at the 4 and 7 oclock positions...
    #14
  15. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Gunner, thanks for that, I'll try it.
    bill
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  16. Alik

    Alik viertaKTMotor *****

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    You can take it completely apart and clean/scratch the contact surfaces in the switch so they will function better/longer. You could also examine the soldering points inside for wacky contact, broken cables etc. I have done it 3 times already - last time went for a silicone RTV (black, sensor safe) and glued all the inside together.
    IMO the ignition key design on ADV version is not very well thought. the connector is under the dash and loosely put cables pull all the time on the delicate contacts while turning the steering to right and left.
    #16
  17. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Yikes,
    Had the dash off three times.
    Tore into the ignition switch...it was in good shape!!!
    Used this thread...sealed it together with silicone glue

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169958

    Found the grounds back by the ignition module under the side plate and cleaned them, greased all the pin connectors again.

    I'll be doing some test rides and report back.

    bill
    #17
  18. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Tore into the ignition switch...it was fine but I sealed it up with silicone.

    Instrument lights fixed now. I doubt it was the the grounsds, I now believe it was the ignition switch multi-plug. I lubed that up with dialectric grease because it was very dry.

    I don't know for sure but the problem is repaired, tach operation and instrument lights are solid.
    bill
    #18
  19. lovemoto

    lovemoto Adventurer

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    Don't know much about waiting for learning:1drink:1drink:1drink
    #19