KTM 640 Adventure owners, sign in please...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, Feb 20, 2004.

  1. TripleThreat719

    TripleThreat719 Track Addict ADV Wannabe

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Bloomington, Indiana
    That was pretty cool... My 12 year old daughter has been getting into making stop motion videos, so I shared this with her...
  2. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    648
    Location:
    Patagonia
    Well... shared with your daughter... that made my day! I watched it with my 6 and 5 years old kids, and they said "awesome!".
    Stop motion videos: that's a lot of patient and ingenious work, interesting hobby though, good for her.
  3. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity

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    5,625
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    New Melbourne, Newfoundland
    nice little video
  4. juames

    juames Have Fun, Don't Die!

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    That is fantastic I loved it! Should be in the Thread of Awesome!

  5. juanuki

    juanuki n00b

    Joined:
    May 29, 2009
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    1
    Location:
    Cartagena, Spain
    Good morning, my name is Juan Enrique and i´m spanish and the proud owner of a KTM 640 Adv. the end of 99, and so far I have not had any problems with it after 45,000 km, but now that I spent a bit of oil, so i´m going to look the segments. But I have a friend with a 640 Adv 2005 that has the following problem:

    One of the most common problems on this bike is the carburetor. I'm thinking of changing it. I read somewhere that if Dellorto, if kehin ... I do not know. The truth is I'm tired of having to clean and adjust carburetor because it is expensive and must be done in 4000 or 5000 kms.
    Anyway, can anyone guide me on this?

    Thanks a lot, and sorry for my poor english...
    Juan Enrique
  6. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

    Joined:
    May 17, 2004
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    Location:
    Rotoiti, New Zealand
    Hola Juan, if you are working on your bike, no matter what else you do, at 45K km,change the cam follower roller bearings.

    On your friends bike, the most popular carburetor upgrade is to a Keihin FCR39 or FCR41. Do some research, it is not a direct swap, but if you get the right version of FCR it is not too difficult.

    The stock Mikuni BST carb should not need adjusting that frequently if it is in good condition though. They do wear out & need servicing, especially the slide & guide & the needle & it's seat, but that is more like every 20 000 to 50 000 km.

    Cheers
    Clint
  7. juames

    juames Have Fun, Don't Die!

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    Might be a good idea to unhook the choke cable for the race so that it doesn't stall out on you while riding. With the FCR you are able to start without choke. Just need to keep revs high enough not till engine warms a bit.


  8. mgorman

    mgorman Crashing since 1964

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    Location:
    Massillon, Ohio
    Mine came with a fcr and the clown who installed it never tried to retrofit the cable. It can be used but you can't be on the bike to reach it. I made the cable work
  9. 640 Armageddon

    640 Armageddon -oo-

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
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    2,864
    Location:
    Greece
    I re-route the cable and it is now on the right side of the bike, does not interfere with anything. It is manually triggered by pulling the cable :deal ... I will see after the race that I replace everything with something like the DRZ one, it looks nice and clean. :wink:
  10. MadM

    MadM Dreamer

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    310
    Location:
    Slovenia
    Hi!

    I need some help from you. I now own a KLE500 and we all know that KLE's suspension is not as good as it could be, and that is why I am looking in swaping the front end. I spotted a nice 2002 Adv forks on ebay for £100 and need the info on how long these forks are from the top to axle center.

    Thanks for your help!
  11. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    36 inches { 914 MM}
  12. tileman

    tileman Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    898
    Location:
    Melbourne, OZ
    I've just picked up a 03 640 and I have a query about the upgrading the power to the headlights.

    My bike has a high/low switch on the left and a off/park/light switch on the right. I was planning to upgrade the wiring to both headlights with a fused line from the batt.

    My thought was to use a relay at the front end that was triggered from one of the 2 switch plugs under the panel at the front end. That line would then run to another relay that would be triggered by the high/low switch on the left switch block.

    Simple enough but it would then delete the need for the switch on the right correct? With my Bandit and DL the low beam is on once the bike has the ignition is on. A relay with 5 spade's eg. 30/85/86/86a/87 would be able to do this. This would simplify the wiring a bit and lose the need for the right hand light switch I figure.

    Now someone will undoubtably ask why? Well since I'm running a extra power anyway it actually makes it easier to run the headlights. Also since I plan to run a fuse block at the front it makes it easier for have a multiple output switched circut.

    Thoughts on this idea?
  13. MadM

    MadM Dreamer

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    Slovenia
    Thanks, but the forks got sold 5min later, oh well, back on the look out for new cheap set :D
  14. Aussie Steve

    Aussie Steve Long timer

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    Location:
    Maitland

    If you try and kick the bike with the lights on it wont start, the light will suck all the power.

    You will have to figure out a way to disable your new wiring if you need to kick start, or keep the switch so you can just switch them off.
  15. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Tileman,
    If I were you I would plan for your future investment in HID lights.
    You write like you get DC wiring, if you are good with a soldering iron you are ready.

    That said I would set up two separate fused and relayed power lines off the battery with the relays triggered by the Hi/low switch.

    I would use a separate three position switch(on the dash) for the low beam ground wire/low beam power wire so you can switch it "off" when only the low beam is activated by the hi/low switch and then also throwing the 3 way in the opposite direction you can keep the Low beam burning when the High beam circuit is switched on doubling your light power if you choose that option(or work in you right side switch for on off power). You can choose to run with two headlamps, one lamp or no lights.

    Now you have real flexibility and two separate systems if you lose a bulb or have a relay or fuse failure and if you decide on HID lights you are ready for two reasons. You have the power to the capsules and you can run both beams simultaneously.

    This is important because with HID's there is a lag time as the ballasts warm up. this lag will put you 'in the dark' momentarily switching from Low to High and it is unsafe.

    You can get good quality relay kits and HID stuff here and I can vouche for them.
    You will have to modify the wire lengths on the relay kits but that's part of the drill, each relay kit is fused separately as well.

    http://www.vvme.com/

    I would also start separate thread on your headlight ideas/questions.
    This should not be buried alive here.
    IMHO.
    bill
  16. tileman

    tileman Been here awhile

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    Melbourne, OZ
    Cheers. Much appreciated info. Is this why there is the switch on the right hand switch block? (for future reference)
  17. tileman

    tileman Been here awhile

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    898
    Location:
    Melbourne, OZ
    Cheers Bill.

    To be honest I have tried to HID route on my last project bike and in the end it didn't work for me. Nothing against HIDs themselves or people who like them. I'm going to try the LED route with an adjustable dimmer circut on the low beam side. Although all this is down the track, just someone mentioned upgrading the power to the lights hence my queries.
  18. 640 Armageddon

    640 Armageddon -oo-

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,864
    Location:
    Greece
    I finally found where the metal paste on the oil plug was coming from... 100 kilometers into ss1 I loose the clutch feeling... After ten kilometers the clutch refuses to disengage... I stop and I swap the clutch cable with a new one.
    After 100 metres the winning noise pierces my earplugs... :cry. I continue with clutchless changes for another 20 k into the stage and as soon as I find the highway I call my support... We decide that it is better to loose this ss and go asap there in case we manage to fix it. :deal
    5 km into the highway, the bike died.

    I think that the clutch bearing disintegrated. The metal from the bearing, all other damages aside, mechanically speaking, I was told that the metal parts go into the generator and destroy it... It seems logical...


    Any thoughts? To change the clutch bearing we need to strip down the engine? Is it better to strip it down to clean the destroyed bearing parts? :huh
  19. hAjPR

    hAjPR Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    31
    Location:
    Czech Republic (that's in between Germany&Poland!)
    Hi guys,

    it's pleasure to announce this - after 3 long years w/o any bike in the house I purchased this baby:

    '07 640A - looking brand new althought it's got 30k km on the clock. Quite a hard task to get one with low mileage for a reasonable price here in Europe...I got mine for about USD 5000. IMHO the best deal in the country! It's got some extras: ALU panniers, Hepco rails, Oxford heated grips, TT lights protection, bar risers, SW motech side stand and so...otherwise it' completely stock, no jetting mods, exhaust, restrictors or airbox...previous owner told me that it does not require any mods at all, stock is perfect...well, let's see after some riding time :norton

    [​IMG]

    I'll come back to you with some better pics soon!
  20. joe cool

    joe cool Been here awhile

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    Aug 29, 2004
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    southwest,ohio
    Congratulations ! Nice ride. I have an 07 as well.