KTM 640 Adventure owners, sign in please...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, Feb 20, 2004.

  1. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,442
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    That disk should work on your application unless the 2pc disk coupler rivet/washers touch the pads when you spin the wheel or hit the fork leg... I see no other reason why it would not work and I see many of these kind of 2pc disks listed to fit the 640A and E models... I measured a new spare 640 A front disk I have on hand and it is 5mm thick and the caliper piston/pads will open up far enough to fit it without binding....

    Make sure your pins on the caliper to bracket are well lubed so the caliper will slide back and forth with relative ease to eliminate any binding... Make sure the fluid reservoir has enough room for the fluid to back into it when you push the piston back in to the cylinder, otherwise the pads may not fully relax their hold on the disk at rest...
  2. tileman

    tileman Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    897
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    Melbourne, OZ
    Just had a fellow member come round and pick up a fan I was selling and he pointed out the potential problem. You are correct the coupler rivet/washers on the disc are contacting the calliper mount. Should have picked up on it first when I fitted it, my bad.

    A simple grind of the back of the caliper bracket will fix it but I don't know if anyone else has done this. It would only be a mm or so to fix.

    Thoughts?
  3. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    If it is a very small amount of material that should be no problem, a flat file works great for gently removing the material...

    I take a file to the rear caliper at regular intervals to square up the pad holding fingers so the pads fit true to the caliper... I removed a substantial amount of material to extend the service life without issue before I tossed it in favor of a new one...
  4. 640 Armageddon

    640 Armageddon -oo-

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
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    2,885
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    Greece
    It should be ok tileman. The KTM disk is also a semi-floating disk and the one you have should be semi floating. Full floating disks are not present any more, mainly due to the noise they were doing. The rivets, on the new one, have spring washers in them,
    In any case modifiyng the caliper in that area will not cause any problems but make sure you are gentle with it :evil and if you have a thin disc cutter, use that. :deal If the modification was near the bolts then it may have been a problem...

    Let us know how it goes and take some photos :norton
  5. juames

    juames Have Fun, Don't Die!

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    Aug 16, 2008
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    2,560
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    Ottawa
    Also let us know if the new rotor gets rid of the squeal with the stock one.
  6. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    The original 640 pad /wheel {up to 03} combo had a tendency to squeal, some said it was because of a harmonic/stress problem that would cause spoke breakage as well... There is likely something to that theory as KTM recalled those original 640A wheels and replaced them with an Excel rimmed unit from the 450-525s... For the lighter E models the recall supplied plastic spoke ties...

    I chalked up the cause of squeal to the original OEM pads and glued a piece of gasket paper to the back of each pad and this quieted the noise... The OEM rear pads at certain stages of dryness would also squeal so they got the treatment as well... I replaced the back with some EBC units {FA-20 x?} and the same to the front a while later and these new pads did not squeel... I believe the EBC pad size #s were PE 1604 front and PE 1605 back....

    I have used up many sets of pads on my main 640 and now just shop for the best buy rather than brand and put up with a squeal ,which does not happen as often on afermarket as it did with the original hard OEM units ...

    By the way, after 155,000 KM the original front rotor still has quite a bit of life left in it, just replaced the front caliper for the first time {damned those water crossings:http://contour.com/stories/640-vs-malms-pond-trail--2 }... I am on my 4th rear rotor and near the end of the 2nd rear calipers life...
  7. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    648
    Location:
    Patagonia
    [​IMG]

    Cheers!

    .
  8. Gerst

    Gerst Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    288
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    :clap







    Even better if it's rideable!
  9. CSF

    CSF Been here awhile

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    Mar 12, 2012
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    167
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    Ontario, Canada

    Hilarious, now I need to convince the wife that I need another bike just for this...
  10. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

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    Nov 27, 2007
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    648
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    Patagonia
    There you go, now you have the best alleged reason... :lol3

    Great project of yours BTW !

    .
  11. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity

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    May 14, 2006
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    5,625
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    New Melbourne, Newfoundland
    Thanks for that my friend:lol3
  12. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    648
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    Patagonia
    :lol3 :lol3 With or without the christmas lights...?

    Fortunately it is, without the lights... certainly not a 100% yet... but that's the rider's fault :wink:

    Cheers!

    .
  13. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

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    Patagonia
    Thank You actually... good to know many of you are always around there... :freaky

    .
  14. Hockeygod

    Hockeygod Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    740
    Location:
    Calgary / Have Skates, Will Travel!
    Well gang, after a two and a half year hiatus (two young kids, life, etc!), I will be returning to ride this spring when the snow melts this spring!

    I bought my '07 640 (third owner) in 2009 with about 7,000 kms on the odometer and only rode for 3,000 kms over two riding seasons. Since 2010, my bike has been stored and over the past two weeks, I had some work (well) done to it by my friend, Pieter, as well as starting to go through it myself.

    Due to some ongoing wiring gremlins - headlights sometimes working, sometimes not (stock running lights with an aftermarket HID kit installed by the PO - no markings / brand / documentation which contributed to my frustration!), I looked for loose connections and then split wires (perhaps grounding on the frame), but after a fruitless search (I am not much of an electrician!), I decided to just replace some circuits altogether. Enter my friend, Pieter, a motorcycle / remote control aircraft enthusiast (auto mechanic by trade) who specializes in electrical.

    After his initial appraisal, he decided it would be more time efficient and more useful to me in the future to rewire much of the electrical (using vehicle grade wire) onto separate circuits (as well as building custom, waterproof fuse boxes) such that any issues can be easily identified and solved in the field. Now all my lights are on separate circuits (stock running, HID low and HID high). He also reorganized the rats nest of wiring under the shroud... not that there was much room with the aftermarket horn and additional HID ballasts!

    While he was at it, he mounted a trick airline fuse into the cockpit panel (another quick change fuse on a separate circuit for my accessories), hard wired leads for a phone and a GPS, as well as rebuilding my aux port (the power plug-in would come loose on bumpy ground such that anything plugged into it would only receive a sporadic power supply.)

    In the future, I might see if Pieter can isolate the 'key on' circuit to further separate the lights and the battery such that it doesn't waste energy on the lights; taking away boost for the starter (an issue as read on this forum). If so, I will have to add on on/off switch for the lights as this will override the 'instant/always on' for the lights...

    Finally, Pieter rebuilt and re-machined my crash bars to properly fit to allow for full radius turning; mounted by a previous owner, they contacted the forks slightly at full lock either way... not good! I had to remove them once I figured it out.

    For my part, I welded a cracked subframe that was hidden by the right side panel (PO over-packing the bags?) and have started reading all the posts on this thread / other specific KTM 640 threads to try to learn of any other potential issues / areas to address. Thanks for the prior info about drilling a hole in the swingarm to release water buildup... any photos / description of exactly where you drilled?

    Q: Does anything jump out regarding potential / actual 2007 640 issues that need to be addressed? Anything not included in the standard KTM owners manual checklist "MUST DO's" that a guy should be aware of?
    :ear

    Q: Any specific brand / model highly recommended as a replacement battery to the stock Yuasa YTZ10F MF? :ear

    I truly appreciate the contributions on here... looking forward to learning more from you inmates in the future and contributing when I can.

    Cheers! :freaky
  15. Tye

    Tye Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    33
    Location:
    Middle Earth
    It appears the dreaded Mikuni vacuum carb is on the way out on my 640.
    Have been told the FCR is a perfect substitute.
    What model would the carb come off?
    Going on a 2003 640 adv



    Thanks :D

    ** also having starting issues. Pinned it down to starter or gears, will I need any 'special' tools to remove and inspect?
  16. mancunian

    mancunian Been here awhile

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    Jul 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    259
    Location:
    Manchester TRF England
    starter motor comes off from left hand side easyish getting it back on is harder (some replacements are a tad longer), dont think you need special tools just perseverance, FCR39 think off drz or yz/wr f dont think this is a straight swap bit of farkling needed, good luck.
  17. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod Red Clay Halo

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    14,075
    Location:
    Richmond, Va
    :wave

    [​IMG]

    Picked up a new to me 2002 640ADV back at the beginning of october. Rode it 70 or so miles home, 20-40 around town and decided to go through it. Forks were stictioning up pretty bad, felt like mechanical binding that would come on after 1 or 2 pumps. So since the beginning of November she's been sitting in my garage looking like this.

    [​IMG]

    Ordered a bunch of parts, chain slider and lots of seals for the shock linkage, swingarm & wheels and wheel bearings. Found both front wheel bearings gritty and coarse, front wheel seals completely shot to the point of not even touching the front bushing. One bad rear wheel bearing and seal, a few blown out seals on the linkage and a nearly stuck swingarm shaft. (not to mention the severely hooked counter sprocket and main wiring harness pinched flat between the tank and the rad hose.) One of the suspension linkages had been installed backward and gouged about 50% through by the end of bottom shock bolt. Top shock bushing was dry as a bone and groaned any time the suspension moved. Rear axle nut had about 5ft/lb of torque on it as well.:eek1

    PO had broken the speedo pickup wiring, and soldered it back together. It wasn't long enough to go back to the stock location so he mounted it to the fork gaurd where it was reading a magnet that is mounted to the rotor. He said it needed a new cable because he had soldered it wrong. First thing I did was order a cable because going seeing 12mph on the speedo while going 60mph is a bit annoying. Since it took so long for the part to come I did a bit of investigating and figured out where the pickup should be mounted. I added a few inches to the pickup wiring and bob's your uncle I wasted $75 on a new speedo cable. :cry

    Thorough fork clean and rebuild (down to the valve stacks but not beyond) got a lot of aluminum swarf out of the forks. Added some fresh Maximum racing fork "fluid", double check fork alignment and the front feels much better.

    Anyway, here she is today..


    [​IMG]

    ..lovely gorgeous bike.

    But, there are still a lot of unknowns. The bike has 28,000 miles on it, but the motor was rebuilt 8,000 miles ago because of a botched oil change. PO said something about "re-torquing" the head bolts because he'd never done that, but that all "upgrades" had been done, which I assume is the trans bearing and replaced intake and exhaust followers.

    PO had removed the manual decomp lever. I re-installed it and now can reliably start it on the 1st or 2nd kick, whereas the electric starter is still a bit of a black art to me until the bike warms up.

    Going to need new brake pads front and rear very soon, and while it was apart I found the steering head was a bit notchy, but didn't replace the bearings at the time because I'd already ordered $300 worth of parts. I'll do them as soon as I work up another parts order. :cry

    Bike puts a smile on my face every time I walk out to the garage. I can't wait to bomb down some forest roads on this thing. Sold my KLR about 7 years ago, and have missed it ever since. Vstrom is just a heavy turd that doesn't like to drift around gravel corners and the same goes for the Transalp that lived in between. :ricky
  18. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    Nov 19, 2005
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    Nice bike, all the work you performed on it would of made an interesting thread...

    Upgrades are good, I see you even have an 03 clutch cover installed with the oil level inspection glass...

    The steering head bearings kits are easy to find in either OEM or aftermarket as KTM uses the same bearings throughout their entire line of bikes...
  19. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod Red Clay Halo

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    14,075
    Location:
    Richmond, Va
    Yeah, the PO was about the same weight as me, and he'd had the suspension re-done front and rear for his weight. Scott's steering damper and some high pro-taper bars are nice as well. Really just a lot of maintenance catch up was needed. Now to get a few more miles under my belt to get to know this beast.

    I've tried before to photograph steps of repairs for my Vstrom, Transalp, and KLR, I just seem to forget about the camera after a while. But for everything I did there's pretty much a great thread in the index by Creeper, Meatpop Laramie etc. The index is amazingly helpful. :clap
  20. CJBDRdude

    CJBDRdude Dirtyrider

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    280
    Location:
    Upstate NY.. rockin it in Valatie!!!
    Been on here for a few years as a DR650 owner. I never really liked the bike as I'm primarily an offroad rider and never came to terms with the DR as a good offroad bike. I came across my LC4 about a year ago. It had 4800+ original miles, around $1000 worth of extras and it was almost showroom. Previous owner had the suspension done and it works in my weight range. It had the larger tank installed so I can ride further than 80 miles without a fill up.
    The more I ride her the more I like her! Big in the woods and not as easy to bang thru the trees like my other two KTMs, but lofting the front wheel is just a simple blip on the throttle!

    Mods I've done - get rid of the awful Metzeler Saharas (basically a road tire in my opinion), and mount up Metzeler Karoos(just mounted my third one on the rear). Mount a Moose fender bag to the rear rack and fill with essential tools. Hand guards - Acerbis Rally Pros(I like 'em). Roll Chart holder(I do a few club dual sports every year). Brush cable installed from bash plate to rear brake pedal. Thats it!

    I have the extra 'comfort' seat (new, never installed) but the oem doesn't bother me on long rides. Just did the 6000 mile oil/filter change. I'm a Motorex believer - only stuff I use in all my KTMs!

    Negatives? Wish I had the orange version, but I'm learning to live with silver.
    Positives? Better than the 690 if you want a more serious offroad KTM d/s.

    Lets ROCK!!:clap