KTM 640 Adventure owners, sign in please...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, Feb 20, 2004.

  1. Earthscape

    Earthscape Have ya got a helmut?

    Joined:
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    364
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    Nice. Love the blue and orange - looks a lot like my '99.
    You probably need a new Tripmaster battery. It's a bit delicate to replace, but after that, no more odometer resets. You can use a small neodymium magnet taped to a PC fan, to put the miles back on the odometer after (if you're so inclined). It will spin the speedometer at a few hundred MPH (several hundred kph) and put the miles on fast. Let it go for a day or so - don't let it go too far or you'll be starting over.
  2. hajoktejnSI

    hajoktejnSI Adventurer

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    Thanks for the tip; actually it is 99, the first reg. was in 2000, my bad.
    I was reading about the battery change but have a bit of fear doing it cause I really don´t want to destroy the unit ... it`s kinda expensive; on the other hand it`s annoying as a rash.
  3. pcvance

    pcvance Walk Verplank

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    Nice 99, 99-2000 were the last of the 50mm forks.:cry

    Here's my 2000 640-E w/ the 50mm forks...I just rebuilt the top end @ 21800 miles, honed the barrel, new piston/rings, valve job and cam bearings. The cam bearings failed and the bike quit running. Runs great since the rebuild!:thumb

    [​IMG]
    :D
  4. hajoktejnSI

    hajoktejnSI Adventurer

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    nice bike you˙ve got there ;) the wp50s rock :thumb
    cam bearings failed :huh is that a common issue?
    have to check my mainshaft bearing though ... didn˙t know or read about the camshaft bearings.
  5. Earthscape

    Earthscape Have ya got a helmut?

    Joined:
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    When I did mine, I used a small battery holder connected with wires to the original location to make changing the battery in the future easier - just remove a bit of hot glue, slide the old battery out and slide a new battery in next time. I had someone with much steadier soldering hands than I have do the tricky part, and prying the old battery out breaking the original solder requires a bit of finesse and patience (as does removing the hot glue to get it apart), otherwise it's pretty simple. I recommend leaving the old battery out for a good period of time before putting the new one in, so no bad data remains in the unit.

    [​IMG]
  6. hajoktejnSI

    hajoktejnSI Adventurer

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    Thanks guys. Changed the battery today. A bit to fine of a work for me but I didn`t had too much trouble. IMO is working fine :clap. Installed an on/off switch for the lights while the dash was unscrewed, so I can kickstart my bike with an empty battery :D
    Now, about that magnet and a fan ... what kind of magnet do I need? Where can I get it from?
  7. Earthscape

    Earthscape Have ya got a helmut?

    Joined:
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    I think the IMO sensor will pick up any type of magnet, but a neodymium magnet will be small and light enough (and still strong enough) to tape to a PC fan without flying off or being too heavy for the fan.
    Something like this, but you certainly don't need 100:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-4x2mm-Disc-Neodymium-Permanent-Refrigerator-Magnets-Rare-Earth-Craft-N35-/321250546338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item4acc0652a2
    If you have some type of local electronic or radio specialty store near you, you may be able to find them there.

    I think I still have my fan contraption laying around somewhere, I'll snap a pic and post it up later. It's not pretty, but it worked.

    Did you already know that there is a connector under the headlights that is there just for the purpose of kickstarting? Or, did you put a switch in that connector just to make it easier?
  8. mxchamp

    mxchamp Registered Lurker

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    Please explain (with photos) of said connector to kill the lights??

    Thanks!!!
  9. Earthscape

    Earthscape Have ya got a helmut?

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    LOL! I'll check when I get home if I have any pics of it - I think the headlight mask would need to be off to get a picture of it; I don't think it would be possible to shove a camera in there without taking it off.
    If you put your hand up under the mask below the low-beam headlight (left side as you're sitting on the bike in case your lights are different), you should feel a connector that hangs down and rubs on the mask, that is the connector. They purposely left it long enough to get your hand in there and disconnect it, which is why it rubs on the headlight mask inside. It doesn't just disconnect the lights. With it disconnected, the bike will start, but nothing else will work (as far as I remember).
    It's entirely possible that different countries were different in this area, but my guess would be they are similar if not the same.
  10. mxchamp

    mxchamp Registered Lurker

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    Well thank you very much. I will have to take a look see whenever I yank her off again. USA model here. 2001.


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  11. hajoktejnSI

    hajoktejnSI Adventurer

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    Actually I wasn't aware of the conector ... I did it in a roughneck kind of way :D
    I've looked at the wiring diagram and have cut the brown wire and connected it to a switch. I noticed that the original wiring is waaay too thin and the insulation of the wires has become quite soft so I decided to change and rewire the ktm spaghetti in future. At that time I will locate the connector and route the wiring from switch to there.
  12. Earthscape

    Earthscape Have ya got a helmut?

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    First up, the fan contraption to put miles back on the odometer. You can see the neodymium magnet under the tape. The wood is just a small piece of scrap shim, probably 1/4" or 5/16" thick or so, and is attached to the fan through the normal fan mounting holes on the back. I unbolted the IMO sensor from the fork/brake mount and used the screw that is visible to attach it to the wood, such that the magnet would pass directly under the sensor on each revolution. I rested the combination fan and sensor on something next to the bike so I didn't need to disconnect the entire cable from the bike. I didn't want to leave the bike ignition on for the entire time it would take to spin up the right mileage, so I unplugged the IMO and connected it directly to a spare 12v battery (I think I found the pinout wiring somewhere on line, but don't remember at the moment, it may be as simple as only two wires in). Then I connected the fan to the same battery and put it on a charger. For the fan I used, the speedo read around 300 MPH. If you use two opposing magnets you may be able to double that speed, but I don't know at what point would be too fast for the IMO to read. I only had one magnet as the other that came in the package flew off to parts unknown on my first attempt!

    [​IMG]


    Second, the connector for "empty battery" starting. This is from my owner's handbook that came with the bike. It's a '99, I have no idea if later models are the same. I know electrical components were some of the things that DID change on later models, but I don't know exactly what changed. I would guess that the reason for the existence of this connector wouldn't have changed. Based on what the manual says, I'm second guessing my memory that more than just the headlight is turned off when this is disconnected - it's been too long since I tried it, I just don't remember.

    [​IMG]

    *** EDIT ***
    I realized the wire was long enough to pull it out and get a picture, so here it is in real life.

    [​IMG]

    Hope this stuff is helpful.
  13. mxchamp

    mxchamp Registered Lurker

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    Excellent!!

    You are the man! I owe you a beer! Off I go to the garage!!!


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  14. hajoktejnSI

    hajoktejnSI Adventurer

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    You the man @Earthscape, thank you :clap
    Going to rip the fan out of an old PC, ordered some magnets from a local internet shop so monday will be the day to put the contraption to the test :)
  15. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Champ,
    An easy way out of disconnecting is to put an on/off toggle switch on the low beam ground wire and then break the ground connection with the switch for dead battery starts.

    Put the switch on the dash.

    bill
  16. Nokmuay

    Nokmuay Plan B Specialist

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    South Western Ontario, Canada
    hey ya - have you done this yet and f so, did you find it improved the vibes much??
  17. Falcon Rust

    Falcon Rust Adventurer

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    Jun 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    96
    Location:
    Brisbane, QLD
    Hi, not yet, I was hoping someone had any experience with this mod. The issue is the AU$1500 the mechanic has quoted.
  18. dnrobertson

    dnrobertson Big Bike, Slow Rider

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Frankston, Australia
    I moved to a Wossner piston (due to a inlet cam follower bearing failure that wrecked a lot of the top end) about two years ago. 2005 640A.

    Before the swap, the bike would "walk" across the garage on fast idle.

    After the swap, the bike would still "walk" across the garage on fast idle, but I thought it was smoother whilst actually riding it.

    Shortly after the first top end rebuild, I had an exhaust follower snap that totally destroyed the top end and required a total engine dis-assembly (coolant through motor). I believe the engine rebuild (by a very good KTM mechanic) resulted in a smoother bike than the piston alone.

    So, my summary: If you need a new piston go the Wossner route, but I don't think it's worth the cost and hassle on it's own. YMMV
  19. mxchamp

    mxchamp Registered Lurker

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    That sounds easier than yanking and stuffing the connector back in every time I kill the dumb battery!

    Thanks!!


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  20. mxchamp

    mxchamp Registered Lurker

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    I just put in a stock piston and my bike doesn't walk across the floor.

    Maybe it was just Doug at Motosports in Des Moines Iowa that helped when he did the rebuild. Not necessarily the piston itself.

    :dunno


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