KTM 640 Adventure

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by luckyxxx121, Feb 11, 2011.

  1. luckyxxx121

    luckyxxx121 luckY

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    35
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    Hi Guys

    I have some questions for you KTM 640 Owners.
    My bike is running about 100k Kilometers (about 60k miles).When do I have to change the following :
    1. Timing chain and timing chain guide and timing chain tensioner
    2. Water pump (it is the factory one)

    What do you recomend me to change to have another full and problem free season (I make around 30k KM a season).

    P.S. : and another problem that is bothering me.Me rear wheel has a small play side (1 mm at the margin of the wheel).I changed the bearing and all the stuff there but the problem is the same.Not bigger or smaller.Just the same.Can you please advise??

    Best Regards
    #1
  2. NICO

    NICO Save the USA

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    Water pump and cam follower bearings at 15-20k miles.

    Haven't heard of too many folks changing out the timing chain and follower at a specific interval. Usually addressed at rebuild.

    Check out this thread index...
    KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread

    and this thread...
    Clintnz's KTM 640 95,000km service

    and this here one too...
    '99 KTM 640Adventure-R rebuild time

    There's another rebuild thread for a high mileage LC4 around here somewhere too.

    My service manual indicates no interval at all for the timing chain. Might be info out there somewhere on what the upper limit is for stretch. I'd just be content in making sure the tensioner is working properly and is not fully extended.
    #2
  3. Tseta

    Tseta Lost

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    I thought Gunnerbuck's kilometers were surely impressive.

    Thread here, good stuff.

    Cam chain probably won't need replacement very often.

    -T
    #3
  4. NICO

    NICO Save the USA

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    That's the one I was looking for.
    #4
  5. luckyxxx121

    luckyxxx121 luckY

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    Hi

    What do you mean water pump and cam folloower bearing at 15-20k??Mine has 100k km with the original ones.DO you sugest i change them??

    Thanks in advance

    #5
  6. NICO

    NICO Save the USA

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    Yes. I would.

    Links to have a look at...
    HELP!! F**KED my LC4 cam

    LC4 PilotÂ’s Rebuilding the LC4 Mechanical Water Pump - a Guide

    The mileage I noted is a range that gets mentioned regularly as when the waterpump seals begin to fail. Many have noted that it appears as if the seals actually wear the pump shaft a bit and this causes leakage. There is no weep hole, so you don't learn of the leakage until you get milky motor oil.
    #6
  7. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    100K km is a good life out of an LC4 motor, has anything been changed since new?

    As above, I would not worry about the timing chain, maybe just check it has not stretched by looking at the marks on the tensioner ratchet, but they do not wear much in my experience.

    Definitely rebuild the water pump & cam followers, the wear can be variable, but 100K km is twice as far as many travel before failing. If you are doing both those items it is easy to also replace the camshaft bearings, these are common bearings which you should be able to buy cheaply at a bearing shop. Check out the LC4 index on here for the 'guide to resealing the lC4 rocker cover'

    If you look at my thread listed above you will see that my motor was due for a new piston, conrod, camshaft & valves at 95K km. To keep the bike going trouble free I would advise removing the head & cylinder to inspect these. This will also allow you to check the radial clearance on the conrod big end bearing.

    Your rear wheel play may come from a bearing with a loose fit in the hub? I had to use some loctite retaining compound on one of my front wheel bearings to cure a similar issue.

    Cheers
    Clint
    #7
  8. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    Something doesn't add up....

    Your bike is an 01 Adventure?
    You do 30k KM a season and have a total of 100k km?
    You say the waterpump and cam follower bearings have never been changed?

    Did you have this bike from new to know the history of it or did the previous owner{s} keep very good service records?

    If you bought the bike used how many KM have you put on it yourself?

    I have rebuilt my waterpump several times, each after about 40K KM of use... While it hasn't leaked by that mileage I found the pump shaft to be quite deeply grooved from the seal lips which suggests that it was getting close to having seal failure.... 50k km would be the max that I would recommend to run on one shaft/seal combo....

    The cam rollers service life a bit harder to pin down... I change my intake rollers out at the same 40,000 interval as the waterpump...I leave the exhaust rollers in longer as their larger size adds up to a longer service life... I had an exhaust roller fail after 70,000 KM so 60,000 would be a good suggested interval to change it out....

    I changed out my cam chain after 127,000 km and it still was in decent shape....
    #8
  9. luckyxxx121

    luckyxxx121 luckY

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    I did not buy it New man.I bought it in August 2008 and made about 65 000 Km with it.It had about 40 000 Km when I bought it.The former Owner took very good care of his bike (now he owns a KTM 640 Adv from 2004 ).I only changed on mine the bearing behind the cluch because it was a ball bearing and I put a roller bearing.
    I am asking opinions about what should I check at this mileage because I never changed anything except the Oil,brake pads,filters and brake disks.It still runs good.I am riding it from -5 to 40 degrees celsius all year long,snow,rain.It started verry nice at -20 degrees celcius.
    #9
  10. luckyxxx121

    luckyxxx121 luckY

    Joined:
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    Hi

    about the wheel play.I didn't quite get the picture.Use Loctite where and how.Could you please explain in detail??

    Thanks in advance
    #10
  11. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Hi Mate, Loctite make 'retaining compounds' in different strengths, I can't remember the number I used exactly, but it was a medium strength one. If a bearing is a slightly loose fit in it's housing you can use this stuff to glue it in place.

    You will know when you replace the bearings, they should have to be pressed in or tapped in with a hammer (on the outer race only remember!) if your bearings are a loose fit they will just drop in, if one or more of the rear wheel bearings was very easy to fit this could be the cause of the slight play you have, some retaining compound between the outside of the bearing & the bore of the hub might keep it from moving.

    Cheers
    Clint
    #11