Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSF, Oct 13, 2012.
damn that thing is clean. nice work!
Wow - Extreme Clean!
Mastic Acid eh? I will have to check that stuff out. Do you brush it on or soak it? Where do you get some? I assume it removes EVERYTHING, including paint?
I went back and look at what I used, I posted the wrong thing. In the end, I think I'd have been better off with a wire wheel and then some metal sealer / polish. But the swing arm does look super clean right now.
Lookin Good CSF!!
I forgot to add, the bearings in the kit I got were marked HK2012. They are a caged bearing, which is nice. I'm prone to losing small needles like the ones originally put in. Although its probably easier to get all the junk that builds up out off a none caged bearing.
A gusset in that spot would not do much because it is on the wrong side of the cantilever point... The best way to strengthen the tail would be to add a set of luggage racks which brace down to the frame near the passenger peg bracket... The HB/Tourtech racks add a substantial amount of strength to the subframe...
The HB/Tourtech racks add a substantial amount of strength to the subframe...
Gunner, interesting comment, must be why my sub-frame is still in one piece without any bracing. I did break off the bolt on the top frame rail shown in the above picture.
Drilling it out was darn difficult as I believe the Touratech/Zega mounts use grade 8 bolts. All the pannier mount bolts routinely loosen and need to be retightened constantly when on tour.
Gunnerbuck, Thanks for the insight. I have a set of luggage racks that will be going back onto the bike. Not sure of the brand but they seem solidly built. I'll leave the frame the way it sits now and if any cracking eventually occurs then I'll address it. I know the previous owner had a set of aluminum panniers on the bike with the racks I have, the sub-frame seems unbent or damaged in any way. I added the reinforcement because I had everything apart, it seemed like a worthwhile mod for the $ it costs.
There was a box with orange tape on it sitting by my front door when I got home today:
I wasn't expecting this stuff so quick so I'm not really ready for most of it yet.
I started working on the "cush" part of the hub. I had mention earlier on I thought the cush bearing was a bit rough feeling and I didn't like the look of the dust cover. I needed to take the old sprocket off too.
I'm not sure how that dust cover got like this but, I ordered a new one.
I popped the the seals off and flushed the bearing out with break cleaner and blew it out with the compressor. I checked how freely it spun, and it felt great after that. I repacked it with grease and put it back into the carrier.
I started cleaning up the rear hub and double checked the bearings. The previous owner said he had recently installed new wheel bearings and they seemed to feel like it. I'll let the cush voids soak with break cleaner over night, they're really gummed up.
I couldn't go much further with that, so I moved on to the rear breaks. I didn't realize the rear caliper was in such bad shape until I started taking it apart. All of the posts and sliders are a bit nasty looking, I'll try to clean them up first or I'll have to look into new parts or a used caliper.
You can see what the malfunctioning caliper has done to the pads, I have a new set on the right:
This mornings work was pretty uninteresting, mostly cleaning up some smaller items and organizing things. I sanded and painted the centre stand black, did some work on the Hella horns. Unfortunately I have the Made in India version, so they were pretty rusted. Especially the hardware, which I will switch out with something more durable.
Next thing to do was start looking at the front end. I put the frame on a dolly and started disassembling.
Everything went pretty smoothly, the front caliper and break pads look in much better condition then the rear. I did order a new set of pads but I think I'll save them until the front wears down a bit more. I'll clean and lube the caliper and then reinstall and bleed it.
I started looking at the forks, I was considering rebuilding them, but the action felt smooth with no sticking and the fluid looked and "smelled??" clean. The previous owner said new seals had recently been installed, I asume the means new fluid as well. On inspection they looked new and weren't weeping or leaking so I'm not sure if it necissary to get into any sort of fork rebuild right now.
I zip tied the frame to the dolly and spray a bit of degreaser on the engine and let it sit.
There are a few rust spots and worn areas on the frame, I'd like to touch them so thorough wash was in order. I sealed of the carb and exhaust and then wheeled everything outside to spray it down.
That's it for today.
Took those photos.
From my research at the time found photos of subframes that were also cracking on the downtubes, didnt see anything to warrant the extra gusset you are talking about.
Yes the bikes filthy, but its a dirt bike and gets used as such. You can see I ran a gusset from the top mount of pillion peg bracket right back to the end of subframe. To run it that far back is overkill, but running it down will stop further cracking of the downtube. Didnt see any point in going any further as the OEM gusseting on the muffler side dont and mounts do a good job of reinforcing anyway.
Hey, awesome thread. Seems like a lot of folks going through their '02 640 Adventures recently.
I just got mostly done with mine last weekend. Still some odds and ends to take care of, but I'm riding her now.
I see what you mean now, I was thinking the weight sat more forward. I probably won't do that just yet but, it looks worth while.
Wouldn't putting a gusset there interfere with the starter solenoid and wiring harness that goes through there?
The gusset on the other side is where the battery grounds to the frame and there's not much else over there.
Seeing whats worked for a few other people, I may eventually extend the gussets further out and down. But Since I've got everything all welded in and painted and I'll be putting my racks back on, I won't be doing any more sub-frame reinforcements right now.
Sorry I haven't posted anything lately, lots of small jobs on the go with the bike. I think I've reached that magical halfway point in any project where things are as far apart as they're going to get and everything starts slowly going back together...
Here are a few of the more interesting points:
I installed the new cush rubbers, the dust cover, and new rear sprocket.
I cleaned up the rear calliper and started putting it back together:
I replaced the frame bearings and installed a grease fitting and cover:
I had a quick look at the carb, glad I did. The jet needle looked about 2/3rds of the way worn through:
I remberd reading about 640 carb wear on here in a few places so I've been going through the threads and downloaded the BST 40 Bible. I cleared my bench and started on the carb, something I was hoping to avoid until next year. I was debating upgrading to an FCR or TM40 pumper, but don't have the budget to do it just yet.
Striping the carb off the bike:
On the bench:
I have had this parts sorting box for years, I used to use it when I built model cars as kid. Never though I'd be using for the real thing...
All of the small carb parts fit nicely in there, I also put a label on the bottom of each container listing all of its contents and where they came from. I also got out my handy o-ring kit and replaced o-rings as I went. There were a couple sizes I didn't have, so I'll pick up some extras later.
Everything was pretty worn, so I'll have to get most of the replaceable parts... I'll post the rebuild and pics comparing the old and new slides and slide guides when everything gets here.
Thats it for now.
Good work! Is that one of the harbor freight oring kits? Looks extensive.
Btw, I just finished putting an fcr on my 620adv, night and day difference. Highly recommended mod - should be at the top of your list. Seriously feels like a different bike. As for the money there are a few ways to do it on the cheap. I used a 39fcr off a 2008 Polaris outlaw 525s. It was a junkyard find but they can be found on eBay for under $100. I tapped it for a push cable, cleaned and jetted the carb and used the stock boots to mount it up. Total cost was $12 for jets/needle and $25 for cable. Had to modify the cables to fit my old school throttle housing, but yours should be plug and play!
With the carb slide fuel needle looking like that it's very likely the slide pieces themselves are worn out of spec, that causes excess vibratation and wears the needle like you see.
There are wear limit marks in there somewhere which will tell you if replacement is in order(on the slide I thinK).
Could you get a measurement of your throttle cables for me? I'm going to convert my throttle/start switch 1piece assembly to a seperated one found on later 640s. I think I have the parts needed, but want to make sure my cables are long enough before I tear it apart!
biensur22 - yup, that's one of the Harbor Freight kits (well is actually Princess Auto, the Canadian equivalent). Its good to have around and I think it was around $10 on sale. Sounds like you got a good deal on the FCR, any chance you did a write up on your install? I'd love to see it. I'm not sure I'm ready for the FCR swap yet, I like the mileage from the BST.
bmwktmbill - The slide guild is worn right through, there are holes in it!, the slide is badly scored, and the emulsion tube is visibly worn into an oval. I ordered new main and pilot jets, new slide and new slide guide, emulsion tube and a few other parts last night.
Low594 - Thanks, I'll try to remember to measure them tonight. I'll post it or PM.