KTM 690 Adventure (re)build

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by mrwwwhite, Oct 12, 2014.

  1. johnno950

    johnno950 Long timer

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    Another option over a oem twin air is the oz made funnelweb filter (namesake after a badass local oz spider) part no fwf 466,generic to the gen 1 450rr carby airbox,fitted straight on to my 07 690 rallye,very well made high quality item with larger surface area......worth a look.
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    #61
  2. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    Cheers! Looking good but actually is pretty much identical in shape with the twin air filter for same bike. The Twin Air is only 20E at the KTM dealer.
    Pretty sure it will not fit the 690 airbox as it's huge compared to the old foam filter for the first generation RFR that fits the 690 airbox (see RRP).

    Looking at the fiche the 690RFR and the 450RFR have different airboxes so you fitted the new gen filter in a new airbox I assume.
    #62
  3. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    With the main components repaired it was time to put this big puzzle back in place.

    Head bearings replacement:

    2x L45410 / L45449 bearing
    1x 77701084000 O-RING SUPPORT W. SEALING LIP
    Good quality (waterproof) grease.


    I’ve decided to change the head bearings and as I’m always on the lookout for the “real” price for any product I did my homework here too and the bearings supplied in the KTM repair kit are actually generic.

    Using L45410 / L45449 as reference I sourced my new set from for less than 10E. Apparently we have a factory here in Romania which is still producing something, so it’s not all imported chinese made western goods after all.

    They don’t come prepacked with grease so you’d better do it properly cause it’s the main reason for the bearings to wear anyway. I remember buying my second Tenere back in ’11 and after just one year (MY10) and ~30k in UK they were gone. I have a conspiracy theory here also, as I think that the very low amount of grease in the modern bikes vital components (head, linkage, swing arm etc.) it’s an effective way to have them back in the service shops after the warranty period. Same for the lean EFI map designed for strict emission pass purposes.

    Ok here’s a nice clip on how to pack head bearings with grease without any additional tool.

    <iframe width="1000" height="563" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EejeCYVBpH0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    And here&#8217;s me doing it :p

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    I needed to improvise in order to get the lower bearing in place. Used my old Tenere bearing race that I&#8217;ve cut with a dremel. It has the same diameter with the KTM bearing so using it will push the race in and not the cage resulting in a damaged bearing. I've managed to find a &#8220;press&#8221; that has a same thread as the triple shaft thread. Although the shaft it&#8217;s aluminum the thread it&#8217;s big enough to sustain the force needed to push or pull the lower bearing in and out.

    Note the long &#8220;spacer&#8221; made from my crashed Tenere fork tube. It&#8217;s advisable to change the lower seal with a new one.

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    My &#8220;press&#8221;.

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    Pushing the new bearing in.

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    I used the same long spacer to put the outer races in the new frame.

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    It&#8217;s genuine Cro-Moly all right :)

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    #63
  4. DesertRatliff

    DesertRatliff Tinker Tinker Ride Ride

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    It's pretty safe to say that I'm not the only one who would be interested in this product if it were available. Can somebody get on that so I can send them my credit card information please?:lol3

    Since my CF laying skills amount to nil and my alloy welding skills are getting better, I might have to give this a shot if I can find the time. Thanks for the two good pics, mrwwhite.
    #64
  5. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    More views on both. I'll see how the prototype will end up and who knows I might make few if anyone interested. :freaky

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    If you plan to make one from welded alu sheet you should consider using the pre '12 velocity stack. Is cheap and it's perfect to fit a round hole 60mm in diameter. It would make things much easier.

    PN: 76506026000 INTAKE FLANGE 08 ~12E

    Looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    I also thought about alu sheet but I'm afraid it will be incredibly loud. Molded plastic is the best compromise but hard to make in small batches because of the mold cost so the only viable DIY option is from composites.
    This way I can incorporate a mix between the OEM velocity stack which has a 48mm I.D. and the big rubber boot found on the RFR airbox. My plan is to match the ID of the TB ~56mm at the entrance and using a 2mm thick composite for this tube gradually maximising the diameter and ending with the funnel shaped connection to the airbox.

    And a last thought on the rally airbox. Actually the molded plastic part for the 450 carbed bike that uses this big TwinAir filter is not that expensive. But the mounts brackets look in slightly different position so it could interfere with the 690 valve cover.

    450 RFR MY11-14 PN: 76306104000 AIR FILTER BOX ~160E

    But if you add all the parts you end up with a hefty 460E bill. But that's nothing compared to the MY15 RFR at ~660E only for the airbox. :wink:

    I'm curious if the rubber boot that this airbox comes with have the same ID as the 690 TB OD 61mm.

    PN: 80006026100 CARB. CONNECT. BOOT 450/501 04

    Found it: FCR MX 37-41 63.5mm OD so pretty close. Probably the rubber boot can take the difference.
    #65
  6. DesertRatliff

    DesertRatliff Tinker Tinker Ride Ride

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    Great info. Keep us posted on what you come up with. I will say that I probably won't be interested if your pre-order cost approaches 660 Euro! I could spend a month on the road for that!!
    #66
  7. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    I was referring to this airbox:

    [​IMG]

    and being a factory product (and latest design) it costs almost 4 times more than the previous model MY12-14 450 RFR. Both share the same airfilter PN:58506015000 AIR FILTER TWIN AIR 01

    I would probably ask half of that new airbox price for a complete kit: CF airbox, Twin Air filter, the necessary laser cut aluminum plates and the silicone hose & clamps to connect to the TB. But first lets make a prototype and put it through some real life tests and dyno runs and see how it works.
    #67
  8. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    It&#8217;s amazing how light the 690 components are. I remember clearly how difficult was to put the engine back into my 660 Tenere after I did the engine swap. That thing was easily 50kg. With the 690 I was able to lift it form the work table and get it in the center of attention without any help. The frame also is pretty light so the big crane was used only to align things up.

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    Yep that's light alright :)

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    After I cleaned and inspected the wire harness it was time to tape some of the exposed parts and also get rid of the SAS and Canister connectors. I&#8217;m pretty sure I will never use any of them.

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    Triples are in.

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    Swing arm and linkage.

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    Tank.

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    Radiator.

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    Side stand eliminator:

    I had a lot of troubles high in the Pamirs with this. Because of the weight the side stand plate had deformed and in the end broke. Without the stand in place the sensor was not receiving any signal from the magnet so the engine stopped. Of course the first thought that came into my mind while doing 80 on a superb gravel road was that the famous pump fired. Well it was not, how could it? I was carrying a spare pump. It had to be something I was not prepared for. After some unsuccessfully weld attempts for the stand plate I decided to zip tie the magnet to the sensor and get it over with.

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    Of course I would not pay 30E for the OEM dummy plug when I can do it for free (resistors are basically nothing).


    You just take the side stand switch.

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    Cut the wires 50-60mm away from the connector (this way you can reverse the process)

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    Solder a 2kOhm resistor between the black and the pink wires and use some shrink wrap on the wires.

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    Exhaust in. Boy that Akra header is light!

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    Lowered pegs:

    I&#8217;ve decided to do something to lower the pegs as the handlebar riser was not enough and to end up with 40-50mm riser is not a good idea. This way I can ride comfortably standing. I asked my welder friend to cut the mount of the PivotPegz and weld a thick SS plate with ~25mm offset between sides.

    This is the result:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have to say now the position is just perfect for me at 183cm high.


    Rear plastic, tail section, shock.
    After melting two blinkers I researched for something smaller.
    Bought these Chinese LED blinkers and special LED relay.
    The relay blade connectors hook perfectly in the OEM relay place and for the blinkers I soldered the OEM connectors replacing the generic round automotive they came with.

    [​IMG]


    Extended fork mounted. Adjusting the limit bolts for the increase turning radius of the 24 offset.

    [​IMG]


    Rally routed front brake line.
    Due to the possible interference with the navigation tower and the use of a low fender most of the rally bikes use a different routing for the brake line. The idea is to clamp the line just under the lower triple and allow it to extend laterally. The OEM line can be carefully cut out of the rigid shell and routed accordingly. The wheel sensor can be wrapped together with the line with some wrapping spiral. The lower triple has two threaded holes that can be used for the claps.

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    Installing the PHDS clamps.

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    Securing all the cables and lines.

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    Almost there.

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    EVOII map loaded.

    [​IMG]



    Ahhhhh at last&#8230; the sweet thumper sound. The beast it&#8217;s ALIVE!!!

    [​IMG]
    #68
  9. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    Not bad for a mockup ;)

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428219646.575515.jpg
    #69
  10. DesertRatliff

    DesertRatliff Tinker Tinker Ride Ride

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    Sweet! Looks great!:lurk

    And congrats on the rest of the bike, too. Really nice work.
    #70
  11. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    Cheers!
    Trying to mix two things that I like: bikes and design (+wrenching).


    After a couple of hours of sanding. Still a long way but looks promising.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428249701.544851.jpg
    #71
  12. jm65

    jm65 Been here awhile

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    :thumb:thumb:thumb
    #72
  13. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    Cheers!
    Few more layers of filler and gelcoat and it will be ready for mold.
    Looking good, imagine the sexy exposed CF.
    Unfortunately I got delayed by the laser cutting company because of the upcoming Easter weekend (orthodox country), not to mention that more OEM parts are on the way but got delayed by the Easter celebrated last wk.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428518766.777243.jpg
    #73
  14. 640 Armageddon

    640 Armageddon Xplorer

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    Looking seriously sexy there :freaky
    Really looking forward to seeing it on the bike. Factory looks all over the place :D
    #74
  15. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    :freaky
    #75
  16. 640 Armageddon

    640 Armageddon Xplorer

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    Now I technically think about it :huh
    Will the air box bolt to the same frame bolts? or just hanging on the intake?
    I have seen CF speargun molds, and they use a CF ''sock'' in a mold which they ''blow'' from the inside (with a silicon ''balloon'') , much like when you fill with air a balloon. the mold is into two parts, so you open it and the part is ready and sealed. Will you use similar technique?
    How will the airfiltered be secured on the CF intake?
    Carbon. How many layers and what resin type will you use?

    info info info :norton
    #76
  17. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    Well I thought/researched a bit about this and at least for the prototype I'll use 2 glued parts. I'll make two molds, one for each half, make the CF halves then glue them together. For this part there's virtually no need for strength as the vacuum force or G's are just neglectable. If you look at the RFR special part posted above they used the same technique. "Special" because one cannot buy it and the available RFR part is rotomolded plastic.

    As for materials I plan to use polyester resin and glass mat for molds and 220g twill CF and Sicomin Epoxy for the final part. I've already made a small stock of 8500 multipurpose epoxy system and the super expensive 8160 flexible epoxy designed for rally body parts which I already used for my Rally Lite CF navi support. I recon 6 layers (~2mm thick wall) will suffice.

    As this part is not all the time exposed and it's designed for a rally bike I think the above technique would be more cost efficient. Otherwise a vacuum bagged prepreg CF could bring a much more nice looking result. The two holes (filter and TB) are big enough to use this second technique if the desired result HAS to be perfect.
    At one point I was thinking about moulding the inside of the airbox (and use the same two part bonded technique) to have a perfect smooth inside which actually is the surface that counts. :eek1

    Same as the RFR setup I'll use a countersunk bolted 3mm alu plate to the CF airbox that will accommodate two speed nuts, a second 3mm alu plate with alu spacers inside the TwinAir filter and two long M6 bolts to secure the filter to the airbox.

    Here's a exploded view:

    [​IMG]

    The airbox will have two alu brackets to connect through silent blocks to the OEM 690 airbox frame mounts.

    After I have the prototype ready I'll dyno tune my 690 and see how this rig will behave, but looking at the size of the filter I have to say... good :evil
    #77
  18. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    More progress today. The first gelcoat left a pretty smooth finish. Few things to correct with filler then a second gelcoat and I should have the plug ready to mould.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428677304.241028.jpg
    #78
  19. mrwwwhite

    mrwwwhite Been here awhile

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    Giving a second life to this '02 125 SX front wheel I got for penny's from the local flea market.

    It fits the 690 without any mods and it will make a nice inexpensive moussed second wheel set.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429286684.744613.jpg
    #79
  20. VxZeroKnots

    VxZeroKnots Long timer

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    Keep us posted, I would be interested in one for sure.
    #80