KTM 690 Enduro owners show off your bike !

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by ADVTuga, Sep 28, 2010.

  1. Barman

    Barman Way Offline

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,166
    Location:
    Saratoga Springs, NY
  2. Wake

    Wake Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Germany
  3. Barman

    Barman Way Offline

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,166
    Location:
    Saratoga Springs, NY
    Fits all years.
  4. Pantah

    Pantah PJ Fan from Boston

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,449
    Location:
    India Wharf
    The windscreen is designed for a 2008. My bike is a 2012, which has the same shaped mask at the 2008. It will fit your 2011, but the lower edge at the lamp will not match.

    [​IMG]
  5. Maxacceleration

    Maxacceleration Awol

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,297
    Location:
    Wa
    Nears Stevens Pass Washington.
    Overlooking hwy 2 for the locals...
    A loong ride from Germany. :lol3
  6. Wake

    Wake Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Germany
    well.. who knows :wink:

    someone got a pic from the windshield on a 2011?

    Greetings
  7. Maxacceleration

    Maxacceleration Awol

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,297
    Location:
    Wa
    I hope you all don't mind a flood of photos.
    I have had some epic rides lately and the big 690 has been on some tight trails.

    I am here to tell you the 690 hides its weight well.
    The twin RR tanks give the bike girth, but not noticeable weight.
    It is heavier to push than a 530 though!
    I am using stock gearing - its is working ok at crawling speeds.
    My bike hit 96 mph yesterday with a 530 on my ass!
    This riding is south of Merritt.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    Lake Ethel
    [​IMG]
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    Party on
    [​IMG]
  8. 3SuperSports

    3SuperSports Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    Has anybody tried that tail section on an old 690? My '08 has the US tailight and the melted left turn signal issue. That one has the same tailight, but looks like the turn signal is raised just enough to miss the exhaust heat.
    I can order the European version, but around here, a large brake/tail light is a good thing.
  9. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,938
    Location:
    Livin' in the 90's

    Just get the LED directionals from Sicass Racing. Plug and play. :deal
  10. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Livin' in the 90's
    Has anyone had this issue? It just happened on the way home today...

    [​IMG]

    :cry


    ***Edit... Sory, clicked the wrong thread.
  11. Sliverpicker

    Sliverpicker Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    176
    Location:
    Stuck in the Moss
    Looks like the clutch blew apart and jammed pieces between the cover and the clutch ----BUMMER !
  12. Madimax

    Madimax Adventure rider

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    Sweden
    Me at the front and my new mate Peter in The forrest of svartedalen in Sweden.
    [​IMG]

    Her is Per and Peter that i ride with for the first time. We made a stop by a lake in svartedalen Sweden.
    [​IMG]
  13. 3SuperSports

    3SuperSports Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    Thanks for the suggestion. Do I have to use their flush-mounts or is the stem style one okay/small enough?
  14. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
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    Livin' in the 90's

    Personally, I got the flush mounts, and have not had to think about them in about 2-3yrs. After having maybe as many as 10 OEMs replaced under warranty. At first I was hung up on the size, wanting the larger oem style for best visibility, but after installing the flush mounts, they are VERY bright, and as long as you just do the rears, and don't use the new module (only neccessary if you do the fronts too AFAIK), the interval at which they flash is a little quicker, and attracts attention in and of itself. ...If that makes sense. :lol3
  15. 3SuperSports

    3SuperSports Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    Makes perfect sense, thanks.
  16. Navin

    Navin Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,475
    Ugh! Coulda had the clutch pick up a loose bit of a bolt or bearing and drag it up there causing that too. Does it go all the way around the back of the cover too? Hopefully it is just a piece of the clutch but I'd think it came from somewhere else. I had a Husky decomp lever come off the cam and do similar damage inside the case cover, same circular ring scar. Good luck!
  17. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Livin' in the 90's

    After taking the cover off, I can move the basket up and down by hand about a 1/4". The damage to the cover was almost certainly from wobbling of the basket.

    http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19204518&postcount=4670

    When I had the dealer do the head gasket last time, the bike became hard to start. I had to "bump" the starter button once or twice to get her to turn over properly. I always suspected the decomp lever was not reinstalled correctly, especially after having the same problem with a new battery..

  18. Navin

    Navin Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,475
    Youch! How many miles on it? :cry

    My decomp pieces actually made it to the clutch basket and spun around for a bit doing their damage.
  19. BK.RD.RNR

    BK.RD.RNR Torque Stick

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
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    Location:
    Livin' in the 90's
    About 30k mi.
  20. Navin

    Navin Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,475
    It looks like any other bike clutch on the parts fiche, you should be able to remove the bolts evenly releasing the pressure slowly and pull the bolts, springs and pressure plate out. Flatten the lock washer tab and remove the center nut with an impact gun or get/make the special clutch holding tool. The basket should slip off then. Obviously keep the parts for the pushrod and the plates in order and watch how the interface with the basket.

    Nothing like a car.

    Edit, are there 4 external (common) bolts/springs and another set internally? I'd think the common process still applies, remove all the bolts/nuts equally so the pressure is released evenly. If you leave one tight it will strain that stud/basket mount. I'm sure someone will correct me if there is a different step on this clutch.

    Good luck!