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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by PABiker, Jul 8, 2009.
I asked the same question a while back ...
I answered this in post #81. I do not think it will be a problem since the new bracket is 0.250" think. I plan to include a new M10-1.25x30mm bolt and washer to replace the tapered bolt that will be removed.
Look at the 5th pic down in post #37 to see the new bolt.
PM sent, oh yeah!
Well things seemed to be going great today. I took a ride with the prototype bracket over to my buddies place. He has an '08 990 ADV so I thought it would be a good idea to make sure that the bracket fits the 990 since it has a different kickstand switch.
It seems that the location of my mounting bolts in relation to the right side of the bracket is a problem with the bracket that holds the hall effect switch.
Also the piece that mounts to the kickstand that triggers the switch interferes with the right side of the bracket.
I contacted the owner of the fab shop and luckily they have not started cutting out the brackets yet, they are still waiting for the material to arrive.
It looks like there will be one more rev needed to accomodate the hall effect switch bracket before I go into production. It may be as simple as moving the 3 mouning holes slightly to the right closer to the edge of the bracket, but I want to get together with the fab shop before I make that decision to see what they think.
As it turns out, they are closed this week for vacation so I will not be able to talk to them until early next week.
Sorry for the delay guys. I promise to get this sorted out ASAP.
...Not too late to put some nice holes in the bracket then....
Do you think it might weaken it?
not if they are dimple died.
Exactly. A dimple-die would actually add strenght.
I love your piece, but in truth, the problem of flexibility is not well solved by making the piece thicker. The trick is to make the piece have more 3 dimentional edges that act againts the flex. The idea would be to put a bend on one of the edges, or a hole that creates a lip at the back, or the original triagulation idea you had.
If it's not too late, you should ask your fabricator about a dimple die-cut hole...
I will run all these ideas past them, if I am going to do this then I need to take into account what all of you think too. I plan to meet with them early next week.
G'day all, I reckon you'd need a serious dimpler to punch and dimple an edge in 1/4 inch cold rolled steel and besides when you look at Joe's bracket there isn't that much room for a dimpled hole/s.
Also the dimpled edge of a hole may interfere with the folding process. I vote keep it plain and the manufacturing time and cost down.
good point rich, it would be pretty tough to dimple die 1/4". and it would increase the cost also. but...... if you could reduce the thickness of the steel, because of the added strength from the dimple died hole(s) it may be beneficial. it couldnt hurt to ask the machinist his thoughts. just my 2 cents.
Yeah - I wouldn't go farting around too much right now with last-minute changes. You've got a great "Version 5" about to start production, so get this version out there, and then begin work on the next round of tweaks for Version 6!
Having said that, I am certain that this piece could be made with 1/8 or 3/16 steel if is was properly/structurally triangulated with some edges and stuff....particularly the riser leading up to the sub-frame.
Didn't mean to cause any hesitation or stir...Just can't keep the engineer in me from shutting-up sometimes.....
Just got off the phone and Rev 4 is now in the works.
Had to shave 0.250" off the right side of the mounting face and make sure the right hole is located exactly 0.187" from the right edge. This will allow the Hall Effect switch mounting bracket to fit properly.
Also made a minor change to the underside mounting for the centerstand bump stops. The bumpstops will be on their own tab and the bracket will mount to the existing bump stop mounts using new screws. The bump stops were not strong enough to use as a solid mount.
Hopefully I will have the next rev for testing by the end of this week if not early next week.
Thanks in advance everyone for your patience.
So I got called to the fab shop this morning because they got one of the rev 3 brackets back from the machine shop and needed to see if the holes were in the correct place.
Well, they weren't. They managed to get the location of the spring bolt too low which threw off the other two bolt holes.
I was asked to leave behind my kickstand so they could send it along with 5 of the new rev 4 brackets which just came off the brake press.
By early next week I will have the one to test fit.
I'm getting closer, hopefully I will have something for all of you soon.
I should really only speak for myself, but I'm sure we all appreciate your hard work.
This type of back-and-forth to the fabricator stuff is why I haven't tried to come up with my own solution.
it's ok, cuz he is gonna make MILLIONS of dollars.
I was under the assumption that the HAL effect switch could not be relocated as the wiring was too short. I was all set to buy the Duke bypass kit and do away with the switch. Have you figured out how to get it to work? Would save around $30.
Thanks, I'm trying my best.
Unfortunately no. There is no way around lengthening the wiring for either the 950 or 990 switches if you want to keep them.
My concern is making the bracket capable of working with either switch since they mount in different locations.
I wonder if it is really worthwhile to worry about the sidestand switch. Seems to me that those of us that are using the bikes in places that require the relocation, probably have (or should) disabled the switch due to the cutting out caused by off-roading. Mine is jumpered as well as my clutch switch.
Just thinking out loud.