KTM Adv true dual head lights

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by DIEZEL, Jun 7, 2003.

  1. DIEZEL

    DIEZEL True Miles Unknown

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    Recently I was able to modify the lights on my 01 KTM Adv so that the low beam would remain on when the high beam was switched on. It was amazingly easy one I thought about it and the benefits in the dark are excellent, wide beam for critters, cars and trees with the pencil beam showing distance. I have posted the information via the following link for those interested.

    Thanks


    http://pub134.ezboard.com/fazbusasfrm26.showMessage?topicID=7.topic
    #1
  2. CodeMonkee

    CodeMonkee Geek Adventurer

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    I have found a position in the headlight switch for my Airhead GS where both filaments in the single H4 bulb are lit, and it does indeed make a significant difference. However, it really soaks up the watts, and I think a separate aux. headlight would be more efficient and I am afraid the wiring won't stand up to the greatly increased flow of electrons - especially the switch. In your case you have two headlights so there probably would be no harm.
    #2
  3. Grover

    Grover Blinkenlights Adventurer

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    On a similar note, I expect Flanny to chime in here with more specific details, but anyhow - he experimented with a similar setup and found that having both beams on at idle or very low rpm will drain more current than the alternator is putting out, so he installed a switch to prevent running both beams simultaneously for tooling around at less than cruising speed.
    #3
  4. DIEZEL

    DIEZEL True Miles Unknown

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    Grover
    I agree with you and running like this for an extended period at low speeds may not be the best. One thing that amazed me was how thin the wires were that run the lights, not those that actaully plugin to the light but just before the white plastic connectors. My future plan is to run a fused heavy line from the battery and then use the switches to trigger a relay which in turn runs the lights. Still have a the current issue with the alternator but that will just have to be monitored by me and make a choice as to when I run both and when not too. No solution is perfect but at least this gives options.
    #4
  5. Loadedagain

    Loadedagain making chips

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    Gents,

    I have not done this on a bike, but did with a car. I found that with the low beam on with the high beam, your ability to see longer distances is much less than with the high beam only. When your low beam is on it is a short wide patern (no shit loaded!). When your high beam is on you are usually traveling at speed. You want to remove focus on things that are close and change to things that are further away. When both are on (whether you know it or not) your body divides attention between. Is that really what you want while your ripping down a road at 100km in the dark?

    Thats my 2 cents...

    Colin
    #5
  6. Flanny

    Flanny Flanny-it-up!

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    Hey Colin!


    The two beams rock man...Yes...They really are what I want when doing 100!

    What I did was install a switch and another blue indicator light. This way I know if I am running in "Dual Lamp" mode or not, and will keep me from having it on accidentally in the city during the day (when the alternator output is not particularly high).

    All I can say is that it wors great. I've run it for 30 minutes at a time with no troubles at all.

    Cheers.
    #6
  7. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    It's a little tricky but on my '02 you can put the switch halfway between low and high and get both lights to stay on. It takes some fiddling to get it to stay there but it's a nice way to try it out before doing the mod. I like running with both lights as I don't think the narrow high gives enough light on the sides to see deer etc.

    -BS
    #7
  8. Velocibiker

    Velocibiker Adventure Antagonist

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    Here's the wiring diagram I posted on KTMTalk. This leaves the low beam on when the high beam is switched on. I haven't noticed a drain at idle. I prefer the dual lights as it gives the cagers a better indication of closing distance.

    Lights wiring diagram
    #8
  9. Velocibiker

    Velocibiker Adventure Antagonist

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    Here's the wiring diagram I posted on KTMTalk. This leaves the low beam on when the high beam is switched on. I haven't noticed a drain at idle. I prefer the dual lights as it gives the cagers a better indication of closing distance.

    Lights wiring diagram
    #9
  10. Flanny

    Flanny Flanny-it-up!

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    Velocibiker..

    You will be OK wrt voltage drops if the dual headlights are THE ONLY extra load, but if you run heated grips of other euipment you will find that you WILL draw more power than is available at city speeds...

    You just need to manage your total load to about 7-8 watts at city, 8-10w at full cruise (5500rpm).
    #10
  11. Drif10

    Drif10 Accredited Jackass

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    Having read all these things that folks have done to get dual lights, which is definitely a must have at night with this bike, I tried something different. Boyscout mentioned that he would just fiddle with his switch so that it straddled the 2 positions and that got him dual lights. Thank you for that one, cause I wondered about hard wiring the system and then running my heated grips and vest. Found a simple solution to all this. I popped the switch apart, and using one of my favorite tools (The Dremel!), I just carefully made another landing for the detent ball of the switch to sit. 15 minutes from start to finish and I now have dual lights on demand that are easy to activate.

    Hope this helps someone.
    #11
  12. Grover

    Grover Blinkenlights Adventurer

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    Damn, brilliant pennytech solution :thumb

    BTW, welcome to the asylum Drif10!
    #12
  13. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    :super :super :super

    I know what I'm doing this weekend.
    #13
  14. Grover

    Grover Blinkenlights Adventurer

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    Take pictures, seriously. That would be handy to have around.
    #14