KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by meat popsicle, Jul 9, 2005.

  1. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,355
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    aftermarket wiring? The most likely would be to bypass the stock headlight circuit with heavier gauge wiring (so they are properly fed); if that's the case then the lil' white box would indeed be a relay so the circuit is switched by your key.

    You can get owner's manuals from KTM:
    http://www.ktm.com/us/faqs.html
    (older than 2000 via the dealers)

    The shop manual is a purchase item from KTM, but you can also find it via some 3rd party downloads (user beware!).


  2. vburgh

    vburgh Semper Fidelis

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
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    Gilbert AZ
    Thanks Bill I found some today local.
  3. Tonicu

    Tonicu Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    181
    Location:
    Spain
    I arrived this afternoon from a very much enjoyed morning excursion into the nearby woods. Carburettor problems and stalling sorted out, a worn slide, float and needle being the culprits.
    So after cleaning the bike, when I was about to oil the chain I noticed quite a lot of play in the rear sprocket - the bearing being the cause, I guess - and more worrying, I also noticed some axial play on the front sprocket shaft. I changed the sprocket seal about one year and 10k kms. ago and by then there was no noticeable play.
    Er ... if the shaft inner bearing needs a replacement does it mean I'd have to take the engine apart ... completely? :huh
    From what I've read, the f/s axial play tolerance is 0.4mm. I'd say it's around or perhaps a bit more than that.
    My LC4 is a '03 640E with 49k kms on the clock.
  4. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Rotoiti, North Is, New Zealand
    They go great with a freshened up carb don't they? :wink: the wear happens slowly so you don't realise how crappy the fuelling has got.

    When I rebuilt my motor the axial play on the countershaft was at the limit - with new bearings - I double checked everything but couldn't find anything wrong. It's done 25K km since with no problems. Maybe get an accurate measure of it then check again after a few hundred km. Make sure the engine is at a similar temperature to get a good comparison.

    Cheers
    Clint
  5. F1paul

    F1paul Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    46
    anybody have a FSM for the 640 motor that they would like to share?

    i have recently noticed oil leaking from behind the front sprocket.......i have only had the bike for three months and just this week started noticing oil spray on the rear wheel and a few drops of oil on the ground under the engine of the bike after sitting a hour or so.
    i took the plastic cover off where the front sprocket is and looks like it is coming from somewhere behind the sprocket.....is there some kind of gasket or something there that would be leaking?
    i havent taken the sprocket off yet because i am using the bike for work and it is beatiful weather right now in toronto.
    plus i dont want to attempt without an FSM before buying required part and having my bike out of service.

    also the owners manual does not say what the sight glass is on the right side of the motor ..... i know the left side with the two hash marks is the oil fill level but can anybody enlighten me what the right side is for...because it is not showing anything inside...i believe it is crankcase oil also but does not show anything until the bike is started.


    thank in advance........Paul.
  6. Gerst

    Gerst Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    312
    Location:
    Durango, CO

    For the leak I'd start here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102920

    I believe the sole purpose of the right side glass is to see the timing mark
  7. TaxMan

    TaxMan Master of None

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    169
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I believe the sole purpose of the right side glass is to keep the oil companies in business. :lol3

    1. i've never been able to see a damn thing through mine; and
    2. it seems impervious to sealing.

    [replaced my stator with the electrosport upgrade (commence flaming :hide) this weekend and tried sealing the sightglass again (probably the third time). i did a much better job of cleaning and allowing the sealant to set, so fingers crossed!]
  8. Syncrosimon

    Syncrosimon Numpty

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Devon, England.
    Hi,

    I have play in the lower shock bearing on my 99 LC4 400D.

    The KTM part number is

    54203083050 HINGE BEARING BLASTED £45.48

    And with seals and a new grease nipple it all comes to £80.

    Is any one aware of an aftermarket replacement. I cannot find an All Balls replacement at half the price, but surely KTM used the same bearing on other models.

    Also, does it just hammer (sorry I mean Press!) out??


    Thanks for your help.

    Simon
    <a href="http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/Snufkins_Hat/media/IMG_0130_zps69ff1555.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r749/Snufkins_Hat/IMG_0130_zps69ff1555.jpg" border="0" alt="KTM LC4 400 ford crossing photo IMG_0130_zps69ff1555.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/Snufkins_Hat/media/P1010898_zpsa8bac193.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r749/Snufkins_Hat/P1010898_zpsa8bac193.jpg" border="0" alt="KTM LC4 400D photo P1010898_zpsa8bac193.jpg"/></a>
  9. drdfblackm

    drdfblackm VeeFeer

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    910
    Location:
    Safe haven from Zombies aka Flagstaff AZ
    I am starting to think that an LC4 bike might be my next one...maybe. Can someone talk about ins and outs of 640 Adv vs 640E vs 625sxc.

    I am going to be doing long distance off road....slab will be involved getting from one section to another. Some will be tighter and rocky but I was able to do it on a DR650 easily. I have owned just about everything and the my latest DR650 did well but is not tall enough....pivot leg hits immediately when I corner. Need a taller bike (I am 6'4" at 228lbs)

    Let me know what you think or if I am barking up the wrong tree.
  10. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Been here awhile

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    Jul 18, 2012
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    478
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    Mid Calder,Scotland
    You are a filthy pig:D, ktm forum, one of the reprobates should have one kicking about, failing that get the bearings from somewhere else.
  11. Syncrosimon

    Syncrosimon Numpty

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Devon, England.
    The LC4 is a nice tall bike. I think it is a very good all rounder. Much more supple off road than my XT660Z Ténéré, but more vibrations. The Ténéré feels like a road bike in comparrison. The LC4 is as solid as they come, and feels like it is hewn out of granite.
  12. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

    Joined:
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    As far as I know that bearing is a KTM special & you just have to get screwed on it if you want one. Not sure on the seals for that one but all the other lower suspension bearings & seals are definitely available at any bearing shop.

    A few appropriately sized sockets & a vice makes a nice press for removal/replacement.

    If you kinda liked the DR but want something taller an LC4 would definitely be a good pick. In brief:

    If you need 500km+ range, or just like the rallye look: Adv

    The E is the sweet spot for me. Get one with the 18L tank.

    The SXC has an extra inch of suspension which you may appreciate, but no cush hub & a smaller front brake. Small tank obviously. Some have the flat slide FCR carb which is nice vs the CV BST on the E & Adv. Most years of SXC have less oil capacity also.


    The XR650L may also be worth considering - pretty basic tech like the DR but taller.

    Cheers
    Clint
  13. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    Location:
    Richmond, Va
    You should price a whole new pro-link. I don't think it's all that much more expensive and includes all new bearings and seals.
  14. Syncrosimon

    Syncrosimon Numpty

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Devon, England.
    Thanks, I see that the whole thing is £152.00 here in the UK. Or twice just what the lower shock bearing and seals cost.

    The bolts should be replaced also I guess, then it's all done.

    Simon
  15. wrya1

    wrya1 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    97
    Hello all,

    A real simple question here; I've purchased a new OEM kick starter for my '02 640 ADV (turns out I was not the only one rattling my teeth out on the bike!)

    The new kickstarter came with a shineee new mouth on it; but it only has half a dozen teeth on it. I looked at my old one and thought "maybe it only had a hand full of teeth too." There are marks all the way around the old one, but maybe just from where hard steel shaft was imprinting on the soft aluminium lever...

    Can someone more enlightened tell me whether I have got the right kick start lever?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  16. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    5,677
    Location:
    Central Coast, Cal
    It looks the same as on my 01 640E. I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that is was excessive wear from vibration. :hmmmmm
  17. slackmeyer

    slackmeyer Don't mean sheeit. .

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    Jul 23, 2007
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    3,626
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    Berzerkeley, CA
    It's only supposed to have a few teeth for locating on the splines, they don't go all the way around.
  18. wrya1

    wrya1 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    97
    Vibes indeed! I was hoping that the kicker only came with a few teeth, they are pricey (200 bucks here in Australia), didn't want to have to return it.

    Thanks for the advice!
  19. neval8ina308

    neval8ina308 n00b

    Joined:
    May 25, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1
    Hi Guys,

    I was doing a service on my '05 KTM 640 SM and noticed the coolant had some oil in it. There wasn't much oil really and it seemed to be mostly in the right radiator with the (cap)


    I checked the oil but that seemed fine (no coolant in it, not milky)

    I know these bikes weakness is the water pump, but I thought that usually when the seals are going it leaks water into the oil, then as the oil level rises it ends up in the air box. My airbox was clean and oil level was ok as well.

    do I need to get it pressure tested? how likely is it to be the head gasket? bike has done 19,000km
    [​IMG]
  20. Lortdadu

    Lortdadu Joe Cool

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    272
    Location:
    Finland
    I would change the water pump seals and see then if the problem persists.

    The previous owner on my bike had two LC4's, and on one of them he had unevenly tightened the cylinder head bolts, which resulted in a very slight bend of the head that could be fixed with machining the gasket surface. I very much doubt that your bike has the same issue, unless one of the bolts has somehow gone loose.

    When I got the bike, it would run for about 15 seconds and then make a really big "clack" noise and turn off. What happened was that so much water got into the combustion area and evaporated to such extent due to pressure and heat, that the engine couldn't turn anymore. You should have seen my oil then. :rofl The only thing that allowed me to separate it from whipped cream was the coffee color. I had to wash the whole engine and the case halves to make sure it was clean.

    So, if your oil is the color it should be and is not different in its viscosity or in any other way different from normal, I would almost instantly rule out the head gasket. If the head gasket would blow, it would also allow the coolant to get into oil. The process of getting rid of the oil/water residue from the engine is huge, so I would test all other possibilities first.