Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in '2 smokers' started by jar944, Jan 20, 2012.
What made you decide on a 91 vs. other years?
Re the clutch, is it a hydraulic unit?
91-2001 are basically the same with some very minor differences (color & trans ratios) & Yes the magura is hydraulic.
I'm keeping my eyes peeled for crs.
With the magura, is it as simple as plug and play or is there more involved with the install? Have you thought about adding a rekluse (if there is even one available for the cr motor.)
yes it'a a simple bolt on. as for the rekluse i'm personally not a fan.
Do you know if the 2008 450 EXC frame would work as well for the conversion as the 450 sxf/xcf? From the fiche I can tell they are different part numbers.
It should, they are wider (front to rear) in the cradle.
I used a stock KTM rfs decompression cable and lever (any hot start or decamp should work)
It's not good looking but it's functional. I need to machine the whole setup out of Al, but this was quick to make.
Looks a little bit complicated to me?
I would take the decomppression unit of an rotax engine, there you only have to mount the cable:
It looks cleaner w/o the hose clamp, but the clamp is all that would be removed from my current setup.
The clamp is certainly a problem in the optical design. My intension are about the use or maintance, the way the deco is used now is pulling and open the deco, then starting the engine wjile pulling the öever to close the valve again.
The setup I mentioned and is used for Rotax engines for example is one action, a spring holds permanently the valve closed, by pulling the lever you open the the valve, when you loose grip to the lever the valve will automatical close again. Isn't this much more comfertable and easier to use?
AHH! I understand what you were referring to. You are misunderstanding how the valve works. It closes by itself once the engine fires (or you release the lever while kicking) From the compression/combustion pressure. Pulling the lever opens the valve.
I only manually closed it in the video to show it's operation.
I hope this mechanism works (closes) well without any spring. When the spring is loosing tension it will get spitty around the deco in my experience, (This happend after a decade or so). They also have the tendency too loosen. I therefore check them once or twice a year if they still sit thight.
It closes too well, I needed to add the cable as light kicking was causing it to close before I wanted.
The valve is the standard Sthil type saw valve that is used in everything from chain saws to Harley Davidson V-twins. It has a detent that engages in the closed position to assist closing and keep it closed. This is the specific valve recommended by the Cr500 community.
Also the valves themselves are only $12, so if needed can be replaced (or spares kept) cheaply.
Ahh kind of semi automatic
Would you be able to make the spacers and mounts? I have a cr500 engine and I think I may be able to get my buddies blown up 08 xcf for a reasonable price. If so, what would the price range be??
Sorry I don't even have enough free time to work on all of my own projects.
average price on a blown rf4 is about $1000-1500
Hi.i m doing a cr500 ktm project too. 94 engine with a sxf 450 2008 frame. It s welded painted put together almost completly. I m waiting for the air boot and griphics. I notice that the cdi u r using ( the part attached to the frame and connected to the spark plug) is not the original one and fit perfect on the frame mount. Where does it come from? Also my brake pedal is a little too close from the case, did u have to bend it too? I really like ur blog it help me a lot on my builng. I should have it running next week end. My engine was nothing like urs, just did top end. I also have different radiators, from a xc i think, so i ll run some different hose and use the two holes on the head. I didnt have to mod much the pipe and silenceur either. Lucky on that one. Thx
There is no real need for a lever at all surely? Guy I know uses chainsaw de-compressor valves on large capacity 4T MX bikes, and once the valve is set it closes automatically when the motor starts.
The compression is so high it closes the valve before the bike fires. I could modify the valve to stay open longer however I wanted a lever to remove the need to "find" the decomp every time I want to start it. It also makes bump starting after a stall very easy.
You mean the coil (not the CDI) the coil is the stock KTM, with a 2t plug cap.
Yes the brake pedal was bent out a couple mm to clear the case.