LC4 640 starter clutch fix

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by losiu, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    did you consider asking KTM Australia WTF about the missing part? I would think they might cover a Mattighofen Mistake.
    #81
  2. warewolf

    warewolf Tyre critic

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    I should ask, I suppose. I'd never prove it though, so no chance of forcing the issue. If they don't take my word for it, it'd cost me more to convince them than to sort it myself. Lucky them.

    If a dealer found the problem, they'd likely go in to bat on my behalf. Would be a more convincing case.
    #82
  3. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Well, you could tell them without asking for anything, so hangover Hans might get a bitch-slap and think twice before half-arsing an assembly job again. Shit happens, and nobody's perfect, but feedback is a good way of making sure it is less likely to happen again. And again, and again...
    #83
  4. pkrasko

    pkrasko n00b

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    My starter clutch went and I finally found the time today to take a quick look at what might be happening.

    I took off the engine casing which hold the stator and found bolt heads stuck to the fly wheel mixed in with metal chips and pieces of the copper coil on the stator.

    ...WOW!

    Here is a pretty good image of what it looks like: http://www.schemingsolutions.com/ktm.jpg

    Anyways...I need to take the flywheel off the see the rest of the damage.
    Anyone know the size of the nut on the crankshaft?

    I also don't have air tools here so any thoughts on keeping the crank from spinning to get the crank nut off?

    I already have the puller which i found online for $25. I'm just hoping there might be an easier solution (rather than air gun or KTM OEM spanner tool).

    Thoughts?

    So it looks like I need a new stator, new flywheel (as its really chewed up), and probably a new hub which holds the starter clutch. From what I could see all the bolts that held the hub to the flywheel broke off.
    #84
  5. dancolin

    dancolin Weeeehaaa!

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    I used one of those cheap electric impact guns.. worked great!
    #85
  6. pkrasko

    pkrasko n00b

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    Thanks - that should work and will always come in handy later on...unlike the ktm flywheel spanner tool.

    Do you happen to remember the size of the crank shaft nut? I know its probably larger than what I have (21mm) and will need to pick up a socket.
    #86
  7. braaap!

    braaap! waiting for the big one

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    27 or 28mm!

    shit man! did that just go BANG! or what?
    #87
  8. warewolf

    warewolf Tyre critic

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    24 or 27mm, I'd say the latter, can check my notes tomorrow. Rear axle nut is 27mm, so is the steering stem nut. I don't own a 28mm socket; the 24mm was bought for a DR-Z250 axle but might fit stuff on the KTM.

    It is left hand thread, too.
    #88
  9. pkrasko

    pkrasko n00b

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    I'll grab a set of sockets and make sure it includes 22mm+

    It went clank clank clank right when I pulled off the highway.
    Turned the bike off, check around...attempted to use the electric start and bizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz just spun freely. Engine didn't turn over at all.

    The bub which is bolted to the flywheel is completely loose. All 6 bolts either backed out or shattered off. Lock-tite anyone??
    #89
  10. greendog75

    greendog75 running short wheel base

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    the thread describes the starter clutch slipping but has anybody had the problem where the kick start is turning the whole starter motor making it impossible to start the bike. This has happened to me twice when I've run the battery flat on a snarly hill or water crossing, I've gone to kick start but there is a whirling sound and the motor turns very slowly. I can only think that the starter clutch won't disengage and the starter motor is turing. If I roll start the bike or charge the battery and start it, then this frees up the kick start? any ideas?

    greendog
    #90
  11. warewolf

    warewolf Tyre critic

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    My bike exhibits the same behaviour. If the starter is dragging on the kick-start, I hit the starter button and it usually fires... :evil my battery is good.
    #91
  12. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    Soooo, fuckup #1, also known as starter clutch fuckup....
    What I did: wanted to clean the little spring on the side of the cylinder head that makes the lever go back (it didn't want to go back, was quite dirty so I wanted to clean and grease the whole thing).

    What happened: the little nut went inside and I couldn't get it back out, tried fitting the screw in it to pull it out, but (as you can guess) the screw is also inside now.....

    I'm not a happy camper & I feel quite stupid.
    Pic:

    [​IMG]

    And, yes, already checking creep's "radiator removal" guide.....
    #92
  13. warewolf

    warewolf Tyre critic

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    Yes, see if you can get the nut & screw out through the valve cover. Don't know what else may have disassembled inside. :dunno

    btw that is the decompression lever, nothing to do with the starter clutch. You haven't even started to fuckup the starter clutch, but keep us posted when you do, eh? :lol3
    #93
  14. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    Thanks warewolf, sorry about naming it wrong, it is the decompression lever....this thread seemed closest to the topic I'm fucking up. So, the radiators have to go off, the valve cover has to go off and I'll have to put a new gasket when assembling it....

    From what I can see on the pictures, there's nothing to get disassembled inside, only thing that I'm concerned is adjusting it on the inside.

    And, oh yes, you all will be up to date with me fucking up....
    #94
  15. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    #95
  16. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    gunnerbuck....is it a problem to refit it by just removing the valve cover?
    #96
  17. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    If the whole thing didn't push too far in then yes you should be able to take the little inspection cover off and slide the shaft back in with your finger.... The flat side on the decomp shaft faces forward....
    #97
  18. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info, would you know what loctite sealant to use?
    #98
  19. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    If your talking sealant for the little cover, it has a gasket so none should be required... I usually reuse the gaskets 2 or 3 times before replacing with a new one and they have never leaked.... No loctite is called for on the decompshaft allen screw but a little grease on the O-ring shouldnt hurt...

    As for the rocker cover itself I have had better luck using the ThreeBond 1211 over the Hondabond stuff for some reason.... The Hondabond goes about 5-10 K before it blows out and starts leaking at the front of the cover as to where the 1211 hasn't failed me yet even at double that milage....
    #99
  20. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    OK, managed to fix the decompression lever. Opened the little front (exhaust?) valve cover, pushed the rod outwards and all seems fine now...decompression works.

    gunnerbuck...thanks for the tips, you were right, no loctite, just the gasket, which was fine so I cleaned it, oiled it and reused it.

    Just two more questions:
    1. Do I have to bleed the oil circuit now (because I took of that cover and a rubber hose leading to/from the frame?)

    2. Would it be good to check the valves when taking of the cover? (valves had been checked around 1000 km ago as a part of 15000km service interval checks, oil change....and stuff)

    Thanks!
    M.