LC4 rear wheel bearings

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by BobCWNC, Jan 1, 2008.

  1. BobCWNC

    BobCWNC Orange lithotripter

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    Yo y'all,

    Whilst changing the rear tire on my 04 SMC, I went to balance it and noticed my rear wheel bearings were stiff and kind of crunchy. So off to search for parts I went. I found this thread:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4199639&postcount=16

    I can't confirm this anywhere else online. Does anyone have any idea if this is correct? The 2052 is the OEM bearing and the 0060 is about half the price. So if it is an upgrade as well, that would seem to be a heckuva deal.

    Thanks,

    Bob
    #1
  2. BobCWNC

    BobCWNC Orange lithotripter

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    Also, I couldn't find a WB R&R thread, do you just hammer a drift onto the long inner spacer tube to knock the bearing and spacer/bushing out?

    IOW:
    http://www.ktm-parts.com/pdf/KTM2004/2004_625SXC.pdf
    Page 26 (manual page 29) hit the drift on part 3 which goes through 6 and 4 and touches part 7?
    Thanks
    #2
  3. Dotbond

    Dotbond Africa, Africa

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    Yep, your on the right track.
    You will find that the bushings, part #7 pull out by hand when you take the wheel off.
    There is no gentle way to get the bearings out.
    #3
  4. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Propane torch heat can really help the removal-installation process.

    Better check the sprocket carrier bearing for wear as well.
    b.
    #4
  5. nfranco

    nfranco over macho grande?

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  6. gaspipe

    gaspipe Wandering Soul Super Moderator

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    The 6205 and 6006 bearings are different dimensions and are not interchangeable.
    #6
  7. BobCWNC

    BobCWNC Orange lithotripter

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    Ok, I did some better investigating, Bmwktmbill was correct. The crunchy bearing is in the cush hub/sprocket carrier, not the hub, those 2 are OK. As it turns out, the bearing itself (#28) seems to be fine, the crunchiness is in the seal covering (#29) between the bearing and the axle bushing (#26). THere is a lot of dirt between them and it was hampering the free spinning of the bearing.

    I had the wrong fiche pulled up above, this is the correct one and is below also.

    http://65.57.254.60/munnracing/showdetail3.cfm?itemid=7941&image_search=1&pagenumber_id=103489

    The axle bushing will not come out easily, I haven't tried heat yet. The seal covering will need to be replaced since I've screwed it up, now. The Bearing is apparently a double ball bearing and it's 79.00 bucks:baldy . I may have found a cheaper solution though, via crazybrit here.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133818&page=3&highlight=0625032057.

    I fear that I will hurt the bearing by heat and pounding when I try and get the axle bushing out. I don't like the seal setup since it seems to allow crap to get in between it and the bearing. Any ideas, or am I on the right track?

    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. BobCWNC

    BobCWNC Orange lithotripter

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    So, will heating and beating on the bearing hurt it? (assuming I take a modicum of care)
    #8
  9. KayaKTM

    KayaKTM Day trippin'

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    i assume you are talking for installation as harming the old bearings isn't usually a concern if you are tossing them in the round file (trash).

    my vote would be heat the hub (not so hot you can't handle it) and freeze (the colder the better) the bearings for installation. they don't quite drop in but it helps.

    good luck!


    #9
  10. BobCWNC

    BobCWNC Orange lithotripter

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    What I'd like to do is get the bushing out of the bearing so I can replace the dust seal (#29), since I hammered it flat. The whole bearing assy came out of the hub pretty easy and the bushing loosened up and I was able to figure out that it was the seal rubbing, not the bearing itself.

    So my goal is to keep the old bearing if heat and pounding won't destroy it, put a new seal in between it and the bushing and reseat the old bearing.

    Thanks

    edit: waynesville eh? Howdy neighbor
    #10
  11. 75dixie

    75dixie Adventurer

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    I would suggest replacing a bearing any time you have it out. It may be undamaged but have a small amount of wear that cannot yet be detected. No bigger bummer than having to tear it apart to replace the bearing 6 months down the road.

    I recently did my honda weel bearings and learned a expensive lesson. I have done my fair share on atv,cars etc but no bikes. I used heat and puch method to remove them and did not pay close enough attention. The bearing went slightly off center and cracked the hub. Well $450 dollars later it's fixed but it hurt...real bad.
    #11
  12. potatoho

    potatoho Cheese and Rice!

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    #12
  13. BobCWNC

    BobCWNC Orange lithotripter

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    #13
  14. potatoho

    potatoho Cheese and Rice!

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    That 3205 AV seal washer can probably be found in a shop. I gave up and ordered an OEM. The bearing I have from stenhouse is a INA 3205 2RS.
    #14
  15. FAST JACK

    FAST JACK Hardcore Dirt bIKER

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    Use a long skinny punch with a good flat end and knock them out from the inside, clean them up really good and put some kinda grease or "Never Seize" on them so they won't get stuck as quickly or as easily.
    #15
  16. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Regreasing.
    Propane torch heat will not hurt the bearings, they are tool steel.
    You can pop off the grease seals on the bearings with a knife and regrease them after washing them out in kerosene, then reinstall the seals.
    The metal seal cover on the cush bearing can be made straight with a flat punch.
    My cush bearing was a little rough at 16K miles, I washed it out and regreased it and it was very close to smooth...almost.
    I reinstalled and am at 32K miles, so it went from Wisconsin to Europe via Mongolia. all my wheel bearings are original(sometimes I worried).

    For the front wheel carefully use a grease needle to do them or reach in with a knife, pop the seals off the bearings and regrease them reaching in with a flat bladed screw driver or somesuch, snap the seals back in place.
    You have to work around the outer wheel seals so be nice and delicate in your work. You can't wash them, just add some fresh grease.

    Now you are ready for the rest of the bearings, steering head, swing arm, shock pivot.
    I would put some grease under the dust seals on the forks too.
    Grease battery terminals, pull and oil all electrical connections with silicone based oil.
    Tighten the fuse holders and oil.
    Lube the clutch cable ends.
    Now you are done.
    b.
    #16
  17. KayaKTM

    KayaKTM Day trippin'

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    just being neighborly, was most of the reason i responded.

    now i'm up to speed. the dust seals aren't that expensive i'd just replace it (fun cycles will gladly order them for you or one of the on-line surpliers).

    if the bearings feel good i wouldn't throw money at them but that's just me. pulling the bearing out in 6 more months (if it was that soon) doesn't sound a like a big deal to me.

    the stenhouse link is a good thing though the bearings are cheaper there than i've seen them anywhere else.

    good luck!


    #17
  18. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    There are Chinese bearings, Japanese bearings and Euro bearings...not all the same quality.
    Sometimes you get what you pay for in bearings.
    In the early Beemer singles they used Bulgarian bearings in the steering head which were my personal low.
    b.
    #18
  19. BobCWNC

    BobCWNC Orange lithotripter

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    The continuing saga of As the Bearing Turns.

    I got the bushing out of the bearing, added grease and it seemed to spin very nicely. So it figured I might as well reinstall it and see how it goes. Froze the bearing heated the cush drive, carefully banged it in. Now when it turns, there's appreciable crunchiness again. You'd think thatthe compression of an AL carrier on a hardened steel race would not make much difference, butit does.

    Out came the bearing, and to experiment, I put the bearing in a vise and when I had just a wee bit of force on the race, the bearing went from smooth to crunchy again.

    I did some research and the OEM bearing is a double row #3205-b-2rsr.
    I have a local source possibly that may have it but I've seen prices for it all over the map.

    The 5205 2rs (from crazybrits post I linked to above) I believe has the same dimensions and is made by many mfrs, so If I can't get a good quality on locally, I'll give Loaded a call.

    That's perplexing why a bearing would be smooth until a slight amount of compression is on it:scratch .
    #19
  20. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Bob,
    Thanks for that post, I didn't think to try that squeezing trick but it explains my experience.
    I left the bearing in mine and it ran as I posted above.
    That bearing must be pretty tough or maybe a little grit gets in that you just don't come out by washing.
    Unless you are headed to Outer Slombokia I bet you can run it.
    Easy to check every 4-5K when the tire is changed.
    You can always order a spare.
    b.
    #20