LC4 Sprocket seal replacement...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, Oct 29, 2005.

  1. ini88

    ini88 Been here awhile

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    Yeah it had to have loosen almost a full rotation I would believe. no way it could tighen 10 degrees :)

    gunnerbuck - Yeah the seal is generic. I ordered it form Munn Racing and thats what i got. if the shaged o-ring was causing the leak and not the CS seal/bushing then how could it leak out of the engine to the ground? would it be cause the sprocket came a full turn loose?

    Whatever it was it was leaking, and its also nice to see a generic CS seal can be found at a local source too if you run into trouble somewhere.
    #61
  2. Tseta

    Tseta Lost

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    To expand on this topic, I found a very good article: click here.

    It is my understanding that the case of the seal is (almost) always made of metal to give the seal rigidity and strength. The common "generic" seal being discussed just has this metal case coated by rubber on all sides. For some reason, KTM has decided to use non-rubberized shaft seals on most of its LC4 engine shaft seal applications.

    The article linked to above discusses to great detail the differences and pros and cons of the different designs and coating options for the seal's case.

    Some highlights quoted below:

    By navigating on the site linked above, you can find out much more information about shaft seals principles, design, selection and such.

    Cheers,

    Tseta
    #62
  3. Bossit

    Bossit Adventurer

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    Hi there,

    I'm new here but anyway. As i'm on a 6 month trip and have some km's done i need to replace the sprocket seal. So i wanted to print the description how to do it with pictures included. But whatever i try to do, the descrition is opening but without the pictures. Can anyone tell me what i do wrong or are the pictures taken off the site? Cause they're really helpfull. I opened it a month ago and then it wasn't a problem.
    Anyway, hope to hear from someone.
    Thank you!

    Bossit. ;-)
    #63
  4. Tseta

    Tseta Lost

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    Well, it sadly seems that Creeper is gone, along with his smugmug pictures. (Google's cache and the wayback machine don't contain a version with the pictures, either.)

    I know many members here have printed this and other useful threads while the pictures were still available. Some might even have them saved in a digital format.

    In fact, dorkpunch started a "LC4 Thread Index as a free .pdf!"-project: click! The project seems to still be in its early stages and does not include this guide.

    I wonder if it would be OK by Creeper and other "old-timers" if a pdf-copy of the essential parts of this guide (and others that have lost the pictures) would be posted online? It would obviously not be as good as the real, original deal... but it seems that there is demand for these guides, and the pictures do add real value to them. I know I've learned a lot from Creeper's well thought-out guides and clear, concise pictures.

    -T
    #64
  5. tdreyer

    tdreyer KTiM

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    Used to live in Crestview FL, now ????
    But what happened to Creeper??:(:
    #65
  6. Tseta

    Tseta Lost

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    Hmm...

    It seems that I spoke out of turn in my post above. Please see here...

    -T
    #66
  7. tdreyer

    tdreyer KTiM

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    Used to live in Crestview FL, now ????
    But that still does not answer the Q. Where is Creeper!
    #67
  8. Bossit

    Bossit Adventurer

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    Hey guys,

    Thanks for the quick replies! I hope there´ll be a quick solution to my question as i got to change it in e few days. By that time i guess i´ll be in Bishkek, Kyrghystan.

    Bossit. :-)
    #68
  9. tele-steve

    tele-steve ya' mon

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    I need to replace the CS seal, but I can't get the bushing/spacer off the damn shaft. It looks like this should just pull off as it is a sleeve over the splines, but mine is not budging...
    Any thoughts?
    #69
  10. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    It should just slide off...WD40? Let it soak for a while and then talk to it again.
    #70
  11. tele-steve

    tele-steve ya' mon

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    penetrating oil and patience paid off + a little nudging from a small steel hook. :clap
    Now on with the rest of the task!
    #71
  12. whereisgibson

    whereisgibson Been here awhile

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    Well the m***** f****** piece of sh** seals just won't fit back in. I've got through three of them now. I try really carefully to seat the seal, then it just keeps going in at a funny angle and doesn't want to go in flush at all. It's like the hole is not the right shape or wharped or something. VERY frustrating.

    I'm going to try starting the bike and running it up to temperature to try and get it to expand some but otherwise these metal seals just won't work for me. :cry
    #72
  13. tdreyer

    tdreyer KTiM

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    You can warm the case in some manner?? I also suggest you put the seal in the deep freeze overnight as well.
    #73
  14. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    dreyer37 has good advice, a heat gun or hair dryer works to warm the case...

    It is common for this seal tip crooked when driving in... When it does this I tap the seal in with a wooden dowel or brass drift.... Work the drift around the rim of the seal tapping on the edges as they hang up and try to keep the seal moving in squarely...

    Good luck...
    David.
    #74
  15. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Martin,
    Did you ever read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.

    Well?

    OK. did you ever screw a lid on a jar crooked?

    Lube the outside of the seal with some engine oil.

    Try to push it in place with your thumbs.

    Jam it but jam it nicely til it holds in place crooked.

    Now, do you have a wire brush, the handles on some are square, if not go buy one.

    http://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-Tools-58801-Handle-Scraper/dp/B002KHNCNS

    Cut three-four inches off the handle at the bottom.

    Now you have made a tool for seal insertion.
    Lay it across the seal at the high point and tap the high point firmly but gently into the case.

    When it comes straight with the low point work around it gently tapping it down evenly.

    You are an artist.
    bill
    #75
  16. Tseta

    Tseta Lost

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    [​IMG]

    I like using an appropriately sized pipe or a similar object to tap seals into place. It ensures me that I have nice, even contact all around the seal and helps it go squarely into the bore.

    -T
    #76
  17. whereisgibson

    whereisgibson Been here awhile

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    I tried the freezer route, the problem is that the motorbike lives outside in UK and so the whole block is just as cold as the freezer!! :)

    Also being outside I've no electricity to heat the bike, and to boot the front exhaust popped off when I did start her, so couldn't heat it that way either.

    I used some engine oil to stick it in place, and took a run up with a large mallet. :clapJob done in one solid whack. Now to figure out how to fix the exhaust...

    Thanks for the help guys!
    #77
  18. roger K

    roger K n00b

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    Replaced the rear tire on my 99 640 SM and adjusted the chain as it was way loose. Sprockets are in great shape (I do not have the mileage as the bike is new to me).

    I adjusted the chain to the sport bike specs I use to use, 1"-1.5" of play on the bottom. Now I have a socket seal leak. Did I over tighten the thing? What should the play be?
    #78
  19. tommysbeast

    tommysbeast n00b

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    Had to replace my O-ring and seal. 2005 625 SXC with under 3000kms.. O-ring was in bad shape!

    Oh, damn hard to get that seal out!! Hope I don't have to do it again soon.

    Thanks to creeper for the guide, it was great..!

    TM
    #79
  20. Ma77

    Ma77 n00b

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    Whats the dimensions or part number for the seal? Mine has started leaking because the chain was adjusted to tight.
    #80