LC4 voltage problems

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Windfield, Dec 20, 2007.

  1. zoltan

    zoltan Been here awhile

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    thanks for the reply and the links. i was just wanting to check the cap before i ordered the Regs., just to make sure it is in spec.
    #21
  2. misterlink

    misterlink n00b

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    No problem - I still don't know what cap you are talking about checking, but given that you are seeing readings around 20 Volts I would be willing to bet the regulators are your problem.
    #22
  3. zoltan

    zoltan Been here awhile

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    So I ended up buying two voltage regulators at Elite Motorsports in Loveland, CO for about the same $$ as online and didn't have to wait on the order. It was nice to be able to buy local.
    Voltage is steady(at idle) at around 13v. The next problem to pop up is that the front brake light switch has gone out. It worked in the past but now i'm not reading continuity when it's engaged. I'm ordering a new one but was just curious about why the old one quit working. I guess i just thought that a switch would be more robust and be able to handle the overvoltage.
    #23
  4. misterlink

    misterlink n00b

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    Good to hear, glad that solved the problem! That is a little strange about the brake light switch, but I guess it could have been a combination of age, corrosion, overvoltage, etc that made it fail. At least it's a cheap and easy fix!
    #24
  5. zoltan

    zoltan Been here awhile

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    Misterlink, please check your PM's
    #25
  6. zoltan

    zoltan Been here awhile

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    So my over voltage problem has returned. I am getting high readings at the headlight when i rev the motor, 30-40v. I have not looked at it too much yet, just wondering if anybody has suggestions on what would make one or both new voltage regulators go bad?
    #26
  7. misterlink

    misterlink n00b

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    Maybe it's a problem with the stator putting out too much or inconsistent voltage? There are some pretty good threads on here about KTM stators - I would read through them if you haven't already.

    Lincoln
    #27
  8. zoltan

    zoltan Been here awhile

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    Thanks, i'll look into it
    #28
  9. zoltan

    zoltan Been here awhile

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    easy enough fix once I actually looked at it. i had a bad connection at the crimp connectors that I used that caused one of them burn up a little.
    the crimp connectors that I used were the generic yellow barrel ones that can be found at any hardware store. what type of device would be better for this application?
    #29
  10. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Cut or grind off the yellow plastic over the to be crimped area.
    Insert wire and crimp. If using srink insulation apply brfore inserting wire.
    Crimp the wire then solder after moving insulation back up the wire.

    Apply the shrink insutation or tape and reconnect.

    Be neat.

    You can use the soldering iron to shrink the insulation carefully into place.

    bill
    #30
  11. Droptarotter

    Droptarotter Long timer

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    If you solder electrical connectors, only use rosin core solder........if you use acid core for electrical, it will eat any connections you have made.

    Cheers
    #31
  12. zoltan

    zoltan Been here awhile

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    Alright, I'm back again. :becca

    I am replacing the volt regulators (2) on my 97 ktm lc4 400 again due to over voltage issues at tail and head light. i had replaced them just last fall too.

    A guy at the shop asked me if they were directly grounded to the frame through the mounting bolts which I thought they were, but it turns out they are not.

    This is the factory mounting spot and there was no jumper to frame when I took off the oem reg.s.

    Could this be a reason I have been going thru bulbs and regs?
    #32