Leaking trans input seal...not sure

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by The Raven, Jan 8, 2011.

  1. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,593
    Location:
    3rd Ring of Buzztopia
    Man, i get out of the airhead loop for a bit... same shite different year

    I understand though. The bikes have remarkable longevity legs, and so do the questions and 10 billion proffered answers.

    Tranny input seal removal has been waaay overstated here. Special tools? :lol3

    Here they are:

    --sharp/thin awl or even an icepick
    --hammer
    --fine-thread screw of some sort. Some use dry-wall screws but i like a fine thread wood screw
    --pair of pliers (Vise-Grips preferred)

    Tranny is out of the bike and on on the bench.

    Probe with the awl/punch/icepick and determine where the steel collar is on the face of the seal. Find the steel surface of the seal (it's covered in rubber, hence the probing); with hammer tap the awl/icepick smartly into the steel. You will simply pierce it, don't go deep. The tranny input bearing is a few mm's behind that seal. You won't damage the brg but if you whack too hard/deep w/ the hammer you may break off the tip of yr awl/icepick :lol3

    The steel part of the seal has a tiny hole pierced in it now. THread/screw in the fine-thread screw into said tiny hole, not too deep again.

    Get purchase of a few threads of the screw in the hole. Grab the head of the screw with your pliers (or clamp onto the screw head w/ Vise Grips). You or a buddy will hold the tranny solidly and yank the clamped pliers backwards. Seal's out. Took longer to type this than it will take you to do it. :nod


    Goo:

    Loctite anywhere in the bellhousing is a bad idea. The flywheel bolts certainly do not need it at 80lbs dry/clean torque, and blue on the clutch housing bolts (the weak/strippy 24-30lbs 6mm allen heads w/ the funky 7mm threads) is an engraved invitation to having to drill the heads off every one of those the next time you have to pull the clutch. Rust takes care of the threadlocking there, boys. :nod

    Only item in the bellhousing that ever got Loctite on my 3 airheads was the oil pump cover bolts, per Oak. And that was a 50/50 mix of Loc Blue and Hylomar. :nod

    I know we shadetrees are raised to think Loctite Blue = 'Security'. There are places, however, where that stuff is flat unnecessary and will only make your head explode later.

    MRP
    #21
  2. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,310
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    If you've already had the flywheel off and replaced the RMS and OPS, there's a good possibility your leak is from the GUIDE RING o-ring.

    Don't forget to line up the flywheel before removal and block the crank.

    If the seal feels pliable and not leaking, I'd be tempted to leave it. But they're not expensive and easily replaced - up to you. I've left mine alone (until rebuild time) and haven't had a problem yet.
    #22
  3. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    Different year but it's the same bike so you ought to know it's going to be the same shit.

    I have seen a lot of gouged up seal bosses from people trying to use screws for pulling out seals! Why go to all that trouble? A common, ordinary seal puller thinned a bit for the application is MUCH simpler and faster with way less to go wrong.

    80ftlbs is in the ballpark but 24-30ftlb on late model clutch cover bolts is way too much. 30ftlb will just about for sure split the star washers. The torque spec is 15ftlb!
    #23
  4. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,593
    Location:
    3rd Ring of Buzztopia
    Elucidate, please. I'd very much like to see the non-BMW/Kurka 'common, ordinary seal puller thinned a bit for the application' that you recommend for removing the input shaft seal from an airhead transmission. Pictures, sir.

    mea culpa, Superman. Had no data in front of me, going on long (fallible) memory which i admit was not acceptable in someone's how-do-I-do-it thread. I will fact-check from now on since i've been out so long. Memory gets displaced by other imperatives
    #24
  5. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    All those were done including the guide O-Ring. I think it's going to be a matter of getting to the source and identifying it. I don't like risk on something I am going to ride, so will leave the trans seal alone until rebuild time. Like Beemerguru said way back when the spray pattern is not right and there is no hypoid oil.

    But this is now....this may change prior to reassembly, after reading toms thread and when I get a package from brown santa.
    #25
  6. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    I haven't found the gumption to learn how to load pictures on this site. The seal pullers are usually KD or Lyle brand and are usually available at most auto parts stores and Sears for $10 or less. They are magic IMO.
    #26
  7. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    Hey supershaft,

    They sound interesting, if you want and have a photo available email it to me at mobilefreedom at gmail dot com. I'll drop it up on this site. It'll make it easier for you. Photo posting in a PITA unless you do it all the time IMHO
    #27
  8. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    Thanks Raven but google KD seal puller and there it is. They are available about everywhere. They are so cheap and simple. I usually have about three of them because I have modified a couple for special applications.
    #28
  9. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    Damn, there are a bunch of seal pullers out there....do a search on Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller

    I remember pulling the RMS out with the screw and a slide hammer attached to it. Worked well.
    #29
  10. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    I am not familiar with the 58430 but I know the others work like magic.
    #30
  11. fishkens

    fishkens Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    5,252
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    #31
  12. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    24hrs upside down with an oil filled trans....not a drop.

    [​IMG]
    #32
  13. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    That looks handier than tits!
    #33
  14. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,295
    Location:
    HIGH desert
    i have a feeling Lisle stock is gonna go up real soon.
    :lol3
    #34
  15. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    Guess what? It leaks and will be replaced. The result of 48 hours inverted

    [​IMG]
    #35
  16. Cordless

    Cordless Two Wheel Addict

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,051
    Location:
    Spokane WA
    You buying der Ubertool or will you use the screw it method?
    #36
  17. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    The ubertool is ubercheap.....will go that way!! I do not have access to your slidehammer as was how I removed the RMS
    #37
  18. outfit

    outfit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    666
    Location:
    Orkney Isles
    Look's like you got some sh$t in that gearbox/oil too.
    #38
  19. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    Combo of moly, BMW red crap, rust and oil...
    #39
  20. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,310
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    Sometimes the input seal will leak because of garbage forced in there via splines. So make sure everything is spotless in the area, and only smear a very light film of lube on the splines when putting it back together.
    #40