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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by sanjoh, Aug 5, 2010.
ordered @ 10:00pm last night -- shipped this morning.
Possible to get a green lens for the helmet light ? I know, what will they ask for next.
Do have a good reason and with research others may find the same. My eyes are most sensitive to green light. I've done lots of experimenting with this - for me, green gives the best definition of fine detail.
White/blue for distance - green for closer detail. I'm not colorblind but red is a dud for my eyes.
Another step in fine tuning the bikes lighting.
Are you looking at the lights with an unaided eye? Typically any strobing or pulsing is not detecteable by the eye, however if you video the lights while dim, the strobing will show up.
No, the dimmer should put out the same power as HBB. But is it really relevant since the idea of the dimmer is to do just that.
If you are unhappy with the dimmer, I will replace it, LMK
That should work.
Just above off, the lights will flicker beacuase there is not enough current to drive them, you'd need an oscope to measure how little power is being supplied. The lights are not useful in this mode so turn em up and let others know you are there.
That's a tough one. What have you been using for your research? Perhaps it could be adapted to the helmet light?
Existing headlamp units which can be electrically switched between normal white, green, and red. No detailed research, just experience using a LED headlamp with this feature --- night hiking, cross country etc. These colors are used to preserve night vision - red being traditional. I assume that was the reason for the earlier request for a red lens. Some folks, myself included, find green to be much more effective. The headlamp and the strap assembly move this lamp into another market. This is one kick-ass headlamp for the money.
I have installed a flood and spot, switch and dash light on my 07 1200GS.
I will be using a 5 pin relay as per an earlier post on this thread.
My only question is where to tap in to the high beam circuit to get the switching signal for the relay.
I'm not keen on drilling the waterproof cap behind the high beam light.
I've searched this thread using a few parameters but no luck yet.
Live from the Frostproof Bikefest.
No drilling required. Just tap into high beam positive wire and route thin trigger wire through vent plug, done.
Many thanks for that Tallguy.
That looks like a good solution.
Last update for me.
The 60s interfere with the electrical system of the 2008 K1200GT under any configuration--by pass box, autoswitch trigger with relay, and separate circuit with a relay and manual switch all induce the same interference. It must be something the lights emit, or the unshielded wiring? I just don't know and I never did get a response from the vendor.
By the way Clearwater lights guarantees their lights will work with the K12GT. They are much more $$, but if you have a K12GT and want LED's this may be a better option.
CANBUS. Is it the German word for crap?
Well if you don't need yours anymore, I'd be willing to take them off of your hands depending on the price.... no interference on my strom
I used this method last night on my 07 12GS.
It was made a little more difficult because I have a Touratech dash panel with power outlets.
This meant removing the screen, instruments and dash panel.
After routing the relay trigger wire through the vent plug I pared back the insulation on the white wire to the headlight connector, soldered the trigger wire on and wrapped the joint in insulation tape.
Now I have it all connected via a 5 pin relay with a push switch and indicator light in the dash surround as per the wiring diagram earlier in this thread.
Took a couple of hours and it all works.
No CANBUS errors so far.
One quick follow-up. I got the lights to work! Not on my K12GT, but on my 1995 BMW R1100RSL. So they are keepers and will burn holes through the Texas deer during my night excursions on the old RSL.
Post a drawing of the circuit you are using - include relays and trigger points. I have 6 lights up front - 10,000 lumens and no probs at all
Sanjoh - having used these lights for a while now - a couple of observations:
Lights are bright - seriously bright. If you are on a narrow road with lots of growth on the side you get a lot of reflection back which makes the centre of the road a bit dark - the upside is though you can see the sides a lot more and the suicide 'roos and wombats a lot earlier (in Oz - yes we have deer and buffalo and beef here too, but they seem to have more sense)
What I need is a spot that is longer ranged and more focussed than the 30's that are currently on offer, to fill up that black hole in the centre. The 10's were useless in my setup - drowned out by the more powerful wides.
How about 60 spots - and true spots that are focussed some distance from the source, without light scatter to the sides?
Great lights - I am always getting people asking me about them. A little more refining and they will be truly great
Harleys need lights to
That is interesting, I suspect if the pic was taken a bit further back, you would not even see the amber