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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by sanjoh, Aug 5, 2010.
Here you can barely make out the wall on the other side of the field (roughly 75 yards).
Beautiful day for a ride in Central Florida
Installed some 60s with skene design hq70 dimmer and trail tech 3 position switch as outlined on his website with the alert feature button. Ground to frame 12 volt lead horn. When I turn on ignition they just flutter. And do not enter program mode. Any ideas? I hope it has nothing to do with led rear blinkers I bought off eBay that pulse faster than usual.
Nvmnd. I switched to another 12 feed and it is stable now.
Programmed with trailtech switch.
low=20% (for night (safe setting)
mid=40% (gonna try it for night, see if I get flashed alot from on coming, if I do go back to 20%)
high= 70% (for Sunny bright Days)
Highbeam shoots them to 100%.
Problem though is my ferring guards. I cannot lower the light to adjust them from shining into the trees.
I cannot angle the lights too low or they hit the guards and I can't turn. I laid the klr down a few times and bent the guards..
Try shimming the light mounts or flip them in bracket which will move the light back a bit.
And try to avoid the laying down part I know the KLR has a love affair with gravity
What size are the metric bolts mounts on the 30,44, & 60 lights?
So if I where sourcing fork mounts that had metric threaded holes I would tell them that the mounting bolts or stud from the lights I am getting are 4x30mm?. My understanding was that most of these lights used an 8mm or 10mm stud or bolt to attach to the fork mount. Thanks.
The M4x30 is for the pivot in the mount. To mount the light you will need 6mm diameter hardware.
Got the model 60 mounted on my K 525/04. Only fitting for me the handguard mount, slightly modified- protected place and high enough for shorter shades. The light works good as far to now and I hope it'll last. On the electrical side it's a mounting on the edge, because I've not modified the stator, so it produces 55 W on the AC circuit and only 20 W (more or less, 1,4-1.7 A at 12-13V) for the DC battery charge. The measured light absorption is 2,2 A at 13,7 V (=30 W), then the battery has a loss of 0.5A /12W per hour. Not a big problem as far it is a lithium battery of 9 A, and I put on the light only for a couple of hours after sunset. I guess the light could work at least 7-8 hours before starting to drain the battery.
Light put on only on off road riding of course- in Italy police would seize the bike with such a blinding light even if dimmed (I know, the new Ducati or Bmw GS have oem led headlights, but they are filtered by thick lens to be street legal).
1- I've put a 3A fuse for the overvoltage: could the light be damaged by a low amperage / voltage in case of battery drained?
2- I saw the BD Squadron light. Good light but less suitable for me. Same 4 Cree T6 leds. Why do they declare a higher absorption of 42 watts? Maybe is there a more protective internal electronics?
Bought a long time ago, but very pleased.
Looking for some spot lights. Will they come?
Shocking 1X4 lights! But I know, winter sunset in Denmark is at 3,30 PM...
Have you boosted /converted the stator of your 530?
Have not ridden with all four mounted. But the 530 should do 150w. I do not know how much loss there is, but i think that 4 LED is at the edge.
Your stator should be the same as mine. 150 w is a nominal power, the actual power is 55 on AC and 20-30 W on DC. Look at this. Off road racing bikes are made like this because the AC-DC circuit is lighter and the less power draining.
LED lights need DC, so you only have 20-30 W available in the battery circuit. Note that in an ordinary circuit the generator current and the battery current are linked in parallel (all DC), so the energy comes directly from the generator and the battery gives energy only at the start or during short overloads. You're probably in my same condition, taking part of the power light from the battery, that normally should be avoided, unless the discharge is balanced with a charging period (lights off).
It is possible to convert the generator from the present two internal windings (one for untrasformed AC and one for rectified DC) to a single unified circuit, with some soldering and a new recitifier-regulator. Or to change the hole stator with a boosted one.
150W would also only be at maximum rpm's. Even with a DC conversion of the stock stator you should stay at or under 70W of lights.
Get a Trail Tech 100W stator. Puts out a solid 100W at just above idle. I've had no problem running 105W of lights from my TT stator.
I was telling someone about my model 44 LED lamps and the ST dimmer, but I can't find the ST dimmer on the web site anymore. Has it been discontinued? I fried one improperly wiring it, bought another, and love it for the daytime attention is creates. People just DO NOT pull out in front of me since I installed it, I run it full bright, 2nd quickest flash. I will kindly turn it down or off if I am behind someone in traffic.