LED Auxiliary Lights

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by sanjoh, Aug 5, 2010.

  1. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,935
    Location:
    Sunny Northern Cuba (aka: South Florida)
    Hey guys,

    Just a heads up for anyone wanting to order lights and accessories from ADVmonster.com on Nov 5th or Nov 12th.

    Online credit card processing will not be available on the following dates at the following times due to site maintenance:

    Saturday, Nov. 5, from 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. Pacific Time.

    Saturday, Nov. 12, from 8:30 p.m. - 1 a.m. Sunday, Nov. 13, Pacific Time.



    If you need to place an order during those times please contact us either via email or by phone.

    I apologize in advance for any inconvenience.



    Dave
  2. snoopy

    snoopy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    265
    Location:
    Newcastle UK
    Cheers but I reckon the toggle feature will be a PITA when I switch to main beam as it toggles the head lamp very briefly.

    Spots were 9W (3x3w) which were upgraded to 11W (3x4w) running slightly below power due to the driver. The driver in this is able to take up to 30v while the 24w one is up to 24v.

    Also for the record neither spot or flood models have overheat protection in the driver circuits, the lights are designed for water usage which is a much better heatsink than air. This is why some have had LED burn on the 24w models and why I personally don't use them. I've got a 9W and an 11W using flood lenses (you can buy cree lenses on ebay for very little).
  3. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard I have no soul

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,935
    Location:
    Sunny Northern Cuba (aka: South Florida)

    All of our Auxiliary lights have a thermal protector which lowers power output when a preset temperature is reached in order to protect the LED clusters and the internal circuitry. Once they have cooled they will switch back to their previous preset output range.

    Though the housings do share a similar appearance to other lights on the market, the internal systems which power them have been specially designed by us for the express purpose of motorcycle use.
  4. snoopy

    snoopy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    265
    Location:
    Newcastle UK
    I wouldn't mind a picture of this internal driver you use. Why don't you post one up? If it were true some of your customers wouldn't be returning/replacing their units due to LED burn.

    Secondly, if you were designing for the "express purpose of motorcycle use" then me thinks you would not have sold them with the crap bracket that comes from the factory.

    :huh
  5. euhero987

    euhero987 n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1
    I was searching for endless time and finally got what i need. I will use this kind of led lights
  6. bluzman

    bluzman BluezMan

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    68
    Location:
    Wos Angewes
    any chance of you supplying a non wireless dimmer ?
    i dont do wireless...
  7. sanjoh

    sanjoh Purveyor of Light

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,399
    Location:
    Mountains of Central Florida:)
    We've been working on a design. Nothing has been able to stand up to the abuse of off road riding thus far. So nothing in the short term.

    Snoopy - you are obviously using lights from somewhere else, we don't have 9w or 11w lights. And all of our lights have overtemp protection built in. If you are having problems with your lights, why not contact the company that sold them to you?
  8. heilong

    heilong Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    If you're a DIYer, you can make it yourself. For example:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14333033&postcount=395

    Here's the one I used:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14564685&postcount=605
    I've thrown away the plastic casing. The PCB itself is 50x50x14mm, pretty slim, I've desoldered the green terminal block from the board and soldered
    in/out wires there, also desoldered the pot connector from the board and soldered longer wires in place (this is not necessary if the length of the original
    pot wires is enough). Then I went to a local electronics DIY shop and bought a 50x50x15mm plastic case and some special 2-part compound used for
    sealing electronics modules. The compound is waterproof, dielectric, a good heat conductor (allowing proper cooling for the dimmer's electronic components) , and
    it cures to a solid but somewhat elastic substance, which is good for vibration resistance.. The wires bundle just stick up from the sealed module.
    I also bought some very nice panel-mount IP67 sealed potentiometer made by Vishay-Sfernice to use instead of the pot supplied with the dimmer. If using the supplied pot,
    it should be put into an enclosure (e.g. a small plastic case) for water resistance, otherwise I don't think it would last long. The sealed pot costs more than a couple
    of these chinese-made dimmers, but should last a lifetime. The sealing compound has also cost me a bit (the local Russian shops are all quite expensive), so the final
    product costs maybe 5x of the dimmer's cost. But I like the final result :)
    Here's a dimmer just like I bought (well at least it's the same case, innards might be different, as is usual with Chinese-made goods - it's common to several factories buy
    the same cases/enclosures/flashlight bodies from a single (or several other) manufacturers and put their own, widely differing electronics inside, so it's best to ask the seller
    for a photo of the internals):
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-12V-...694?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336cbea9a6
    And here's the sealed pot I'm using:
    http://www.newark.com/vishay-sfernice/p16np-1k-10-a/potentiometer-cermet-1kohm-10-1w/dp/76M9955

    Here's a pic of my dimmer with the original pot enclosed in a small plastic case and the Vishay-Sfernice sealed pot beside it.
    [​IMG]
  9. heilong

    heilong Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    Dude, it was already discussed, you just have to read thru all the 115 pages of this thread :)
    Here's a link to the pics and tests made by an inmate: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14271763&postcount=305
    The lights do have thermal protection, and it works. Don't be so certain in your skepticism before you get the facts straight.

    Judging by the number of people reporting problems with the brackets, they are adequate for most users. This probably depends mostly on the particular mounting locations chosen by the users. Some people might need the heavy-duty bracket, indeed, but I suppose the majority doesn't. I like my equipment to be as durable and reliable as possible, so I did pick up the heavy-duty brackets for my lights, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have any problems with the original brackets.

    In a modern world many, if not most, products are made in China. It's quite common for manufacturers in China to mix and match components from different suppliers to make their own products. So inside an identically looking enclosures/cases/bodies might be completely different internal parts. If an entrepreneur/small-business owner/inventor has a product idea, it's more economical, practical and faster to use readily available components for the product, than to custom design and produce all the parts. Small orders with manufacturers are usually very expensive (per item), so it makes a lot of sense to not use custom parts when and where possible. Thus a company like ADV Monster selects a readily available light housing, the LED assembly, and designs their own rugged electronics driver to power the light (plus who knows what other parts and mods). So even if they look 100% identical to a model of underwater aquarium lights, it's quite probable that they are not them, but instead are former underwater lights adapted and upgraded for motorcycle use.
  10. snoopy

    snoopy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    265
    Location:
    Newcastle UK
    The way I see it these guys have bulk ordered from the Chinese factory and say they've made some super-duper changes yet the facts are;

    1. this light is designed for under water. It requires a bigger heatsink for sustained usage in air or movement.
    2. the bracket is designed for a fish tank, and they passed on the original bracket for use on a motorcycle. It is clearly going to fail but is a matter of time and frequency of the engine.
    3. the lights they sell exhibit LED burn, indicating they are using the same internal electronics.

    If you're happy to take their word for it then fine. I'll keep my scepticism until proved otherwise with proper evidence.
  11. heilong

    heilong Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    1. The heatsinking is completely adequate for motorcycle use provided there is airflow. This has been tested by numerous owners. If you're not moving for a while, of course they should be turned off or dialed down using a dimmer. If using a dimmer with the full-power-on-HI-beam feature (recommended), I would dim the lights to 20-40% of their power on the LO-beam mode, to avoid blinding oncoming traffic, then there would be much less heat during city driving, thus no need to make any adjustments to the lights when stopped at a traffic light etc.
    2. The bracket problem has been addressed by the heavy duty bracket which is now available. I agree it should have been addressed earlier / from the start, but better late than never.
    3. There is some % of failure, judging by the owners' reports, which may or may not be caused by LEDs overheating. As far as I know, John is handling these warranty cases gracefully. In my earlier post I gave a link to an earlier post by Patobravo, who did a complete tear-down on these lights, there are photos of the internal electronics there, and also his test results. He tested the lights and the heat protection worked. Just read his post.

    I've just tested one of the Model 44 lights myself with a lab power source. It's quite cold in my room so it took around 10 minutes for the overheat protection to trip. The initial current was 1.40A@13.3V, then it dropped to 0.51A@13.3V (voltage was chosen rather arbitrarily). I stopped testing after several more uneventful minutes. You probably can't see the lower brightness in the second photo, these photos were taken from a phone.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Any more doubts? Gotta face the facts, man - there is overheat protection there :)
  12. FJRJO

    FJRJO Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    47
    Location:
    Lynchburg, Va,
    :1drink:freaky:clap
    Love this thread can never get enough opinions on one subject. It will it will not it will it will not it will it will not told you so !

    Attached Files:

  13. snoopy

    snoopy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    265
    Location:
    Newcastle UK
    You are obviously right on the overheat protection, I will find out tomorrow if this comes with all 24w lights (it doesn't with the 9w and 11w versions). I was told none did by a Chinese gent who also buys them from the factory but the language barrier gets in the way.

    Also your lights are using 18.62W, given a 90% efficiency rate for the switch-mode indicates your 24W lights are using 16.8W of power. What's going on there? You'll find they overheat a lot quicker at there rated power. Air flow onto the front glass will not help much, personally I'd stick with the 11W version with its consistent light output (even if its not as much).

    Where's this picture of the internal circuit and I'll tell you if they did modify it.
  14. heilong

    heilong Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    What are the 9/11w versions you are mentioning? A link?
    ADV Monster doesn't advertise these "Model 44" lights as 24W, but their description mentions they use 1.8A@12V; mine use less, and I am indeed curious about it. I've got 4 of these lights, I've tested them all and they use from 1.54A@12V to 1.61A@12V. I've e-mailed John and Dave with these findings.
    Even though heatsinks are on the back of the lights, airflow does cool them well, this is tested and confirmed.

    Pics of the internal pcb, you can also see the separate heat-sensing switch connected with two black wires:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Photos taken from this very informative post about the first version of the lights (these were called the single-mode 24W flood lights): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14271763&postcount=305
  15. snoopy

    snoopy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    265
    Location:
    Newcastle UK
    I'm trying to find the Chinese lad I bought the 9W and 11W models from, bloody Paypal has deleted all history before May...

    Totally different driver circuit in the 9w and 11w. Is anything stopping your circuit from shorting on the walls?, the 9W/11W driver is better made and shrink wrapped to boot.

    Plausible reason for your 18W is probably because most larger current limiting chips like the LM series are rated 5A or just a little over. CREE chips take 3V-3.4V. Would need two driver circuits to do 24W. Read off the numbers on those chips and I'll let you know.

    PS) Those wires are not through hole soldered. Being that the board is free to move even slightly means those solder points are going to break.
  16. JDLuke

    JDLuke Ravening for delight

    Joined:
    May 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,644
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Snoopy, maybe you could shit all over this vendor in private or something.
  17. OaklandStrom

    OaklandStrom Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,612
    Location:
    East Bay
    You keep bagging on this vendor about this light and now you are bringing up some crap you bought on eBay a year ago. Seriously?

    I assume this will get pruned from this thread, because it isn't relevant and you may get a vacation out of the deal. I would kill people if I worked retail. :eek1
  18. Cmyers

    Cmyers Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    30
    Location:
    Tampa, Flatistan
    My exact thoughts

    I agree and hope the crap does get flushed from this thread.

    While no product is perfect, at least have this vendor's product before trashing it and the vendor.
  19. bluzman

    bluzman BluezMan

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    68
    Location:
    Wos Angewes
    I am using the dispatch1 as my dinner, like i said i dont do wireless fobs, cant/wont adjust while riding.
  20. heilong

    heilong Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    Didn't I answer your question in my earlier post?

    BTW Clearwater lights include a rotary pot dimmer with their lights, but I didn't see them sell it separately (you may call them and ask, though): http://clearwaterlights.com/