Let's see your Man Castle

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by AZcacti, Mar 13, 2007.

  1. PA Slammer

    PA Slammer I hate titles...

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    I've been wanting a couch AND a bench for the motorcycle... but don't have room for both. Maybe a build that can function as both... a tarp, a cover over that, some big old cushions, storage under... hmmm?

    PA Slammer
  2. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    LazyBoy, for me.
  3. EOD3MC

    EOD3MC What will break next

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    Yes, the wheel chock is removed for storage.
  4. foggy50361

    foggy50361 Adventurer

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    I'm an electrician, it's not difficult to add an extra socket and that's why people take it upon themselves to have a go. Usually it's not them who pay the price of lost personal items or worst death.
  5. chokozip

    chokozip Been here awhile

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    That's why we don't use cloth covered wire over here.
    The black spots might be burns or it could be the residue from the wire sheath.
    I bet if you grabbed that wire sheath it would turn your hand black.
    I would just guy it out throw some 12-2 in there and keep moving.

    Sean
  6. Easterner

    Easterner Just Landed

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    The black spots in the empty box look like where a live wire touched. I can't quite see it clearly but it almost looks like the clamp has a wire burn out in it where it would meet the wire.
  7. chokozip

    chokozip Been here awhile

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    Very possible.
    I had one that let the smoke out in my house.
    I spent the summer rewiring my house just to be safe.

    Sean
  8. doc dogg

    doc dogg Adventurer

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    I can finally put up some pics on my new man castle :) 6m x 8m x 3m (or 20' x 26' x 10' for those not using metric)

    Here are a few in the middle of construction. We built the walls on the ground and then (with the help of a few local riders) tilted them up and cemented the posts in the ground.

    My dad is just modelling in front of the wheelbarrow, I did all the cement mixing and shovelling...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And the finished product

    [​IMG]

    The concrete floor is coming after I spend some money on the GF (she keeps nagging me about a ring and a wedding :deal)
  9. mbrick

    mbrick Been here awhile

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    What kind of common mistakes are we talking about here?
  10. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    Location:
    Anchorage Alaska
    Before:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I built the cabinets in what I call "reverse stack" style to give more work-around room for my car. It is only a small garage and I needed all the room I could get. They work very well.

    [​IMG]

    I hooked up a washing machine water line from the hose bib to a ball valve mounted on the front for easy access. It always had a short coiled hose with spray gun attached.

    [​IMG]

    All doors have slide bolt locks for our frequent earthquakes, I didn't want a bunch of stuff falling on my car or bikes!

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I mounted power strips on the door face since the outlets were inside.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Some cabinets I put adjustable height shelves in and some are just removable while others are fixed.

    I built the cabinets out of 1/2" MDF and painted them to look like tool boxes. All simple boxes just glued stapled together. Simple bolt on hinges and latches are through bolted. All interior surfaces painted white gloss oil paint. The doors are painted with silver Hammertite (sp?) and the red is just bright red oil paint.

    Not shown are all my tools and folding work tables, two more vices, bench top tools, compressor, rolling toolboxes, and everything that was neatly stored in all the cabinets. Why is the garage empty you wonder?
    Because we have moved.

    That has been my "before" garage shop for ten years....

    And now the "after" pictures!


    Another one car garage to design and build cabinets for:

    [​IMG]


    AND a two car garage shop to design and build cabinets and work benches for! :clap

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It is amazing how much stuff can be put into cabinets and how much space that same stuff takes up when just "put down somewhere" while moving in.

    I am looking forward to designing my new shop and getting back to building bike projects. Unfortunately the inside of the house doesn't look much better and we are living out of boxes. :cry
  11. foggy50361

    foggy50361 Adventurer

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    Power sockets spurred off lighting circuits, spurs off spurs, undersized cables, diagonal runs behind walls etc. etc. etc. there is a person that lives near me, when he asked me if the modification he had decided to undertake himself (adding a socket) was OK, was mystified when I told him, twisting the wires together then wrapping in masking tape, is not the correct way to do it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
  12. Riteris

    Riteris Dessert Runner

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    Wow! What a doofus. He should have used scotch tape, like I do.
  13. Nevada

    Nevada Been here awhile

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    No, no, no. You're supposed to use cloth adhesive tape. Just make sure that you thoroughly impregnate it with Vaseline after you've wrapped the wires to keep any moisture out.



    :eek1
  14. atokad

    atokad wan⋅der⋅lust

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    Wait, I was supposed to TAPE the wires after I used superglue to hold them together?? :lol3
  15. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    I'll keep this thread moving along and put my money where my mouth is.

    In the past, when solicited, I've recommended OSB for sheeting and stains for concrete. This is my smaller garage (22'X22') I just finished. I used Sherwin Williams ProBlock Primer, SW SherScrub latex paint (2 coats-this stuff is high build and thick, like paint used to be) on the walls, SW H&C solvent-based solid color stain (2 coats), and SW H&C solvent-based clear gloss (2 coats) on the floor. I used 2-1/2 tubes of latex painter's caulk on the sheeting seams, joints, and screws/nails. If you have any questions, please ask.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'm going to be doing my shop next. It's split in halves and will get totally different colors. I'm going to try SW's water-based floor products in it, as it doesn't see near the traffic or chemical exposure as the garage. SW has a "high-gloss" product I want to try.

    This is what it looked like, caulked and primed.
    [​IMG]
  16. TCSVN

    TCSVN ...Stays in Vegas...

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    How hard was it to do the solvent-based stain? We are building ours right now and I went down to Home Depot and looked at the stuff they have there and it seemed pretty easy, but I have no idea how durable it will be.

    Your floor looks pretty damn durable--can the average joe do it?

    TC


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  17. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    Prep is the most important thing. If your concrete is "green", you need to ask the contractor how long to wait before you etch it. Any coating needs a "bite". I'd recommend a 25-40% muriatic acid mix (mix it in 5gal buckets, have them ready, just dump them on the floor, slosh it around with a broom, rinse). I've used 50% mix, but, it can get a little aggressive and leave the surface more porous than I like. I usually pressure wash twice, in perpendicular directions. Let is sit 2-3 days. If you use water-based stain, you don't need to wait.

    The advantage to stain is that it actually penetrates the concrete; paint doesn't. I cut down the first coat with 10% xylene. That further thins the stain, so that it can better soak in. The second coat I use straight. If you have any cut stain left, just mix it in with your second coat stain. The clear is optional. I've done them without it and it leaves an eggshell sheen, yet as porous as the concrete originally was before staining.

    I prefer to use the H&C line that Sherwin Williams sells. I'm not familiar with anything Home Depot sells, as we don't have one where I live.

    Yes. A DIYer can do it. There's nothing tricky about it. Of course, there are techniques and equipment (Wooster 18" roller setup is advantageous) that does make a difference. But, don't let that dissuade you.
  18. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    Looks great Ducnut! :clap

    Am I understanding correctly that you use OSB for the walls instead of sheet rock? Or is there sheet rock AND OSB over it?

    The reasons for using OSB?
    I am guessing it is much more damage resistant and you can attach things to it anywhere, are there other reasons?

    Thanks!
    James
  19. Vankaye

    Vankaye n00b on the move

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    I have H&C stained several patios (at my own house) and decks and driveways of my rental homes. While it does look great, durable would not be a word I used to describe concrete stain AT ALL!!

    It scratches and is affected from the simplest of chemicals. I have ruined my back porch with gas can that had just a little bit of gas spillage on the sides. Pine-sol from your carb soak will totally eat it away. IF durability is what you're looking for, H&C (sold at both HomeDepot and Sherwin Williams) is not your answer - although it would be the cheapest and quickest. The one good thing I can say about H&C concrete stain is that it's quick and cheap. Great for rental house patios and whatnots...
  20. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    Just as you stated.

    Like anything put down, some chemicals will play hell with it. I've got some stuff that'll go through any coating, given time to soak. Likewise, nearly anything will chip, hit hard enough. Again, proper prep makes all the difference in durability, with impacts.

    I've not had any issues with petroleum products, brake cleaner, etc. But, I wipe up my spills. Maybe, the clear makes a difference.