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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Kedgi, Oct 7, 2012.
Living vicariously thru you.
Dwight, Glad you finally made it across. Sounds like a fantastic time your having. I'll keep following and by the way, everyone at the Dog told me to tell ya Hi, Good Luck, ad happy Travels. Be szafe my friend.
I have followed you from the beginning but I don't often write comments.
You have a gentle way of writing which makes me think you are right beside me,
describing your journey.
safe travels from Vancouver, BC
Cool say hi to all at the dog!
I'm in Ciudad Mante tonight, crossed the Tropic of Cancer One Tropic down, one to go. More later. Limited internet tonight for a strange reason. I 'll try to explain later
Thanks bESS. I'm glad you're following along and glad you spoke up. It's nice getting some feedback, makes the time spent writing rewarding.
I am in the Tropics now, weather is surprising similar to both my trips across Labrador, proving beyond any doubt Maritimers can bring Maritime weather with them wherever they go. Rotten wet day today but I chose to make some miles rather than sit again. I hope to post more later tonight.
I hung around Linares for a while this morning hoping the rain or more accurately, drizzle would let up. It never did. I planed to ride in the Mountains if it dried up a bit but I could see no point in going up there with wet roads and a very low ceiling.
I waited in the town square. I don't know what checkout time is but at around 9am I went down the street for a second coffee and my bed had been stripped even though my stuff was still in the room. So I got ready and checked out.
In the process, I locked myself out of my room. I had put my wallet in my jacket, went to take something out to the bike....and as soon as the door shut I realized what I'd done. The electronic card key was in my jacket. Through a series of charades with the girl at the desk I got another copy.
I went to square and parked the bike at the curb and sat on a dry bench under a tree and decided it would be a good time to look at my Spanish/English phrasebook. I'm learning a few words and recognizing the Spanish that means (where are you from?) when I hear it in context.
Here's the trusty KLR at the curb across from the square in Linares
There are some nice buildings around the square
I walked around and looked at stuff like these typical bikes
No wonder my KLR draws a crowd here. It is huge compared to the Mexican bikes.
Here's another street I saw right behind the Cathedral
I got tired of walking in the rain and I was hungry because I had coffee for breakfast so I went for pizza. At least that was the plan. I saw a sign outside a restaurant that said pizza but when I walked in I never saw anything that resembled a pizza shop or pizza oven. I should have asked because as soon as I ordered something else, I saw their pizza menu on the wall. Here is what I settled for instead. It was good, cheap, filled me up and kept me going
This is the restaurant
I ate my breakfast/lunch went back outside and took this picture of public transit
And this gentleman selling cotton candy. Slow day for him I'm sure thanks to the drizzle, I gave him a couple pesos for letting me take his picture
Then I remembered to take a picture of my new hologram on the windshield
I finally tired of waiting on weather and I decided I would have to skip the mountains and head south, after all that's the plan and there will be other mountains.
I heeded out of town, got chased by my first Mexican dog, he was about twice the size of a normal Chihuahua na he was fiesty. He came at me the exact second I glanced at the gps to see where the highway was. he backed off just enough to left me by when I cocked my leg like I was going to boot him. I found Ruta 85 towards Ciudad Victoria, stopped at a Pemex for gas. There where about ten Police pickups at the shop next door. Looked like maybe a robbery?
I hit the road. It was getting wetter and wetter and I pressed on. Finally approaching CD Victoria it dried out a bit.
I stopped at another Pemex for a break and a coffee and because I was making good time I wanted to look at my map and see where I might go beyond CD Victoria 'cause I really didn't want to stay there.
I bought a coffee and then I was approached by a man in his early 40's I would guess selling Limes and then his little boy, smaller than my little neighbour Liam selling something. His little dirty face looking up at me I couldn't even look at what he was selling, I reached in my pocket and gave him a few pesos and told him to keep whatever it was he was selling. God Dam. There are so many poor little kids in this World who will never have a chance at a life. I had a few sips of coffee and I couldn't take it anymore i took the lid off my coffee and gave it to the Dad. He took it gratefully. I'm sure he was cold. It was damp and about 60 degrees which is damn cold for down here.
I left that lot feeling very sad. We that can afford travel all have so much to be thankful for!!!
I left for CD Mante
Ciudad is a big city and very busy. Lots of traffic and I can't get over how a few miles from where that dad and little boy were selling what they had for a few peso in a dirty parking lot all of a sudden there are huge shopping malls and hotels and a array of businesses that would rival anything in Canada or the USA.
I wove my way through CD Victoria traffic, and that's the best description I can think over. The traffic is flowing like a river over and around every type of object and at varying speed and the noise of creaking trucks , grinding gears, missing mufflers, horns etc is amazing.
Eventually I made it through and picked up Ruta 85 again after one mistake which I discovered early enough to correct.
Ruta 85 north of CD Victoria is a busy road, South of Ciudad Victoria it becomes two lane black top that has long straight stretches interrupted by a couple twisting climbs over mountains. It was windy and cloudy and wet today. I konw I missed some outstanding scenery. I saw impressive mountains shrouded in fog and peered into the fog over a huge cliff at a valley that seemed to go on for miles at one point. I crossed the Tropic of Cancer
Considering I am now south of Key West, Florida, latitudinally speaking. It was cold and wet with weather remarkably similar to both my Trans Labrador Highway trips. I crossed into the Tropics with my heated grips on! I sure glad I didn't waste anymore time waiting for the weather to improve in Linares
I had flown past this sign and then turned around to take this picture. Dam tall kickstand made it tough but I got it, just put the camera away when 4 Frederales Pickups went flying by southbound. I waved to the guys. They all waved back. All young guys who seem to like bikes. I think they are very brave trying to save Mexico from the mess it's in. I know I wouldn't want to be in their shoes, or combat boots as the case may be.
check this out and consider it for your busy schedule???
I went up the road a few more miles and at and intersection there were the guys that had passed me and a few more. It looked like a mandatory stop so I slowed right down beside two guys with their machine guns and black masks who were standing there. They looked at me and one guys hollered "Allendez" He didn't have to tell me twice I almost dropped the bike getting out of there. I heard them both go "Oh!" when I stabbed at the pavement a couple time with my left foot.
About five miles down the road from them I saw this clean little restaurant.
I stopped for a Coke.
Oh and I missed this picture, this is looking North from the Tropic of Cancer sign. It gives a good representation of what Rte 85 looks like
I rode through dense fog today which really slowed my progress as there were a lot of donkeys on the side of the road, some tied, some not. I passed through many small towns with Tropical little huts selling bananas, limes, oranges etc but the weather wasn't conducive to tropical shots.
I finally made it to CD Mante at about 4:30 and was glad to find Hotel Rio, that Sjoerd Bakker has listed in his book. Thanks Sjoerd! Saved me looking around late in the day.
Here's my bike in front of my room
Ihave no worries about the bike tonight. It's in front of my door and two doors away there are some army guys staying. They have a dude with a machine gun in full fatigues posted around the clock.
One of the Army guys is making time with the cute girl at reception. They were sitting pretty close together when I walked in the office. I didn't want to go in the office and cramp a guy that has a machine gun's style by posting to ADVrider.
Anyway, as luck would have it, I didn't have to. I have wifi in the room now albeit a weak signal.
One light in my room won't work and the other buzzes but rather than go play charades with the girl at reception I dug out my LL Bean Headlight I use while camping and that's how I'm posting to you tonight, while listening to "Big Bang Theory" on the TV, which I personally find incredibly stupid for a show that's supposed to be about smart guys, but it's the only show in English, Now it's switched to two and a Hlaf men in English. That's somewhat better
It's all good. the Hotel was cheap at $350 pesos. The beds are good and look clean and I'm warm and dry and relatively safe and not sleeping in a shack in a lime grove. Now you're up to date. I'm hoping for better weather tomorrow. Then I'll figure out what's next
Oh and I had a good supper tonight at the Motel's restaurant, Hamburger and homemade fries. I had left my camera in the room but we've all seen hamburgers and fries. While I was there I saw about six guys came in that reminded me of a construction crew and they ordered what looked like steak fajitas on rice, Wish I had recognized that on the menu or knew how to order it. It sure looked good. I am learning though, French Fries are pappas, or something like that. Anyway, I'm watered and fed and I'm sure I'll sleep tonight.
Jaysus ,what I'd give to be riding alongside you right now.
Did Mexico y Guat. a few years back ,also on a KLR but keep hinting to my wife about going solo to tierra del Fuego ,but it's still a firm "NO" .
I am enjoying your report ,watch out for those feckin donkeys please ----your my age there abouts ,so no point in telling ya to slow down for them ----but hey ! I just did ! lol.
I'm hooked onto this thread now.
You take it easy and enjoy the sights etc ,dont do what I done ,which was get from one location to another as fast as possible ,,,my mistake that I regretted later .Keep the pic comming mate.
You lucky B------d!.
Cheers irishdec from Toronto
Thanks for the advice, and believe me going to far too fast has been rattling around in my head. But I gotta tell you the weather has been yuckky. It's been 8 days now since I've had nice weather. I never would have thought I'd be down this far in weather the Maritimes gets.I'm sitting outside my room this morning looking at all the State Police and Marinas staying at this motel, and I have a waffle thermal shirt on and I'm cold. I am going to try and get about 400 kms south to Pachuca de Soto today. I hope it warms up. It's a little drier today thankfully.
I want to leave a few days to sit on a beach somewhere and warm up, but I still have an eye on my December 8th sailing date from Panama
Thanks for reading, and i love feedback. I think Tierra del Fuego will still be in your future!
Man I wish I was with ya, another Maritimer joining the trip!!
That wire/rub spot.. was that off the ignition coil (for future reference)>
Have a great trip, I'm along in spirit if nothing else!
I would like to update you and send pictures today after one of the best motorcycle rides I ever had, frustrated bt internet problems. Seems to be connected but not well.
I am alive and well and living in Chapulhuacan, HGO, Mexico
If I could use one word to describe today's ride it would be awesome, twisty, steep, fragrant, tropical, and fantastic, or yeah and FUN!
More when I can...
thanks for following along
The bike worked awesome in the rain ever since. Fixed thankfully!
I have got to write a few paragraphs just to tell you about today. Pictures will have to follow later.
I was glad to leave Ciudad Mante. It's kind of an industrial town based of Sugar Cane and other tropical fruit that grows there. The ride for there to Ciudad valle was OK but nothing stands out in my mind compared to later in the day.
I rode into Ciudad Valle. What a nice town, clean as a whistle with a broad main street, lots of Royal Palms, broad sidewalks and cafes on the sidewalks. I saw some bikes parked at the curb and I was ready for a break so I stopped. Turns out the bikes were pizza delivery bikes and I was in front of a pizza cafe.
I snapped a few pictures of the Main Street and a guy in a Taxi Office, named Jesse started fooling around with me saying "take my picture, can i be in your picture?" there was some thing differnet about this guy I couldn't quite put my finger on......Oh, Yeah! I could understand him! He was speaking English. Jesse was awesome. He said as long as I has in town, his house was my house. if I wanted a bed, shower, something to eat, just let him know. How cool is that? Jesse had lived in New Orleans for four years and spoke excellent English. We only talked a few minutes but it was great.
I stuffed myself with Hawaiian Pizza at the pizza shop. First time I had something I really wanted to eat in afew days. It was awesome. A ten inch Pizza, a coke and tip was less than 8 bucks and there was noi way I could eat it all. And it was at an open air cafe on the Main Street in a clean tropical town. Jesse told me everyone in town is Happy because they are happy to live there. That reminds me of Port Aransas, TX Next time I'll order a smaller pizza they pack them full here.
I rode on on one of the most excellent rides ever following route 85. Passed though nice towns and rougher looking towns, rode by rivers over streams, by mountains up mountains down mountains, twists turns valleys, tropical fruit stands every where big shade trees, trucks hauling fruit, sugar cane, cattle and horses awesome. The road twisted and turned so much I was getting seasick at one point.
I almost launched myself into outer space on an unmarked tope I was so busy looking at a dog scratching himself...got to remember to ride the bike.
At three pm I was in Chapulhuacan which is a small village, high in the mountains and I saw the most stunning view I've seen all day. I stopped. i found the Hotel Don Maurco.. It seems like it could be brand spanking new. Less than 20 bucks for a room, with a balcony about 100 feet off the ground because the hotel is built on a cliff. An absolutely outstanding view that rivals the White Mountains or the Blueridge Mountains and this place is immaculate! My room would be hundreds of dollars in the mountains in Canada or the USA. Absolutely unbelievable.
I'll post the pictures when I get better internet