Lobsters to Llamas, Maritimes to Argentina

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by Kedgi, Oct 7, 2012.

  1. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    These girls had not a word of English. I can't tell you how much fun it was to have the two of them talk to me in Spanish. The two guys in the picture spoke some English and they were my protectors. They warned me away from these women, Thank God!

    The little one with the lighter hair is something all you single guys who ride motos dream of,Drop dead gorgeous! Not that any of you would expend energy on girls when you could save it for riding your bike in SA. Her name is Marduly.


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    The brunette was no slouch either, I could not understand her name. When she heard I rode my moto from Canada, she really thought I was kidding.
  2. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    You Sir, are an extremely brave and generous man!
  3. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I was really apprehensive about meeting these Peruvian girls, especially when i have my wonderful Miss Angele at home that I love so much.

    I spoke to Sebastian , told him I was being hit on, by two incredible girls and thought I was being set up. His reply was, Welcome to Peru!

    Kedgi
  4. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    Steve

    Just an observation, but it seems like a hell of a long time ago you escorted me to the U.S.A. border

    Still riding south

    It's a long ride!

    Dwight
  5. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    In aviation, pilot reports (usually on weather encountered in flight) are called Pireps

    Well I just got a Rirep. A rider report of weather encountered ahead.

    Mike from Idaho is two days in front of me and said he hit snow on the pass between Nazca and Cusco.

    The pass is at 15000 feet:eek1

    Tell me again why I want to leave Lima's tropical weather.

    Kedgi
  6. Smithee

    Smithee F650 Beemerider

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    That would be 11.76 mpg here in the States. About what I get with my Toyota Tundra when I'm pulling my toy hauler.

    Sounds like in Venezuela they almost give the gasolina away.
  7. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    Gasoline is 12 cents a gallon in VZ, so about 72 cents to fill up a bone dry KLR.
  8. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    Somehow I am going to tear myself away from Lima today. I loved being in Miraflores. I'm thinking I'll head for Pisco or Nasca, not really sure yet but they are both in the same general direction. There is another town too, Ica I may check out.

    I had a great time with my friends Jana, Lawrence and Nikko yesterday and their friend Meline is in Lima too. She was with them last night and we had a wonderful time. It's been a long time since i had anyone to talk to. It was great.

    Kedgi
  9. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    When I got back to the hostal last night there were two motos from Australia here. I asked Peter, at the reception, if the guys were around but he said they had come in and gone to bed. I hope I'll meet them before I go.

    db
  10. atadold

    atadold n00b

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    If you haven't already gone past Ica the oasis just a couple km off the highway is a must see.
  11. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    Thanks

    I'm going to check that out. I'm in Paracas tonight,

    Kedgi
  12. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    Well I got out of Lima on Sunday as planned, well sort of as planned. i kind of dilly dallied around the hostal this morning, shared some stories with other travelers, Skyped home, and had a a couple cups of coffee before i finally got geared up to leave. i was in no particular hurry because its less than 300k down to Paracas.

    Murphy's law took over when i went to Scotiabank to get some cash and my card wouldn't work. Of course! This time I knew there was money in the account and I wasn't over my weekly limit so I couldn't figure out why it would not work. I still had some Peruvian cash but I knew I might not see a bank machine again for a long while.

    This necessitated another trip to another Scotiabank where of course the card would not work and I got a message to call my branch. I really thought I was going to have to give up when both the Scotiabank machines would not reconize my Master card either.

    I then went looking for another bank. I found an HSBC bank and my Scotiabank card worked fine. WTF! Of course all this took about an hour and traffic was building all the time. I bought gas that was frigging expensive, cost 72 soles to fill the tank. It was good high test gas though the KLR never knocked all day

    I got really mixed up at an interchange to 1S (the Coastal Highway) and The GPS has no idea what to do but by trial and error I finally found the way to the highway. I was on an entrance ramp. Latin drivers have zero patience and absolutely no sense of an orderly traffic flow. The ramp was a free for all and a guy in a Honda Accord came so close to me trying to squeeze by me to get ahead 6 feet he hit my foot as i was trying to put it down to stop. I was steaming mad but said nothing. You never know who's got a gun down here.

    I realized as I got to the south end of town, all the traffic was going to the beach. There are a lot of beaches along 1S just south of the city.

    I got yelled at at a Peaje (toll booth) because I guess I was in the lane for cars. A cop was yelling at me. I said i can't speak Spanish which was a bit of a lie because I knew what he was saying but pretended I didn't. It is so dumb. The toll booths are like those fiberglass booths they have to sell tickets at a fair. There is no gate, nothing to prevent me from rolling though in the lane I was in but the cop had to stop all the traffic in three busy lanes just to let me cross in front of it all to get to the free Moto lane. I left shaking my head. This happens all the time in Peru. There is no sign at any of the toll booths to tell bikers where the Moto lane is. I have even seen it on the left side of the road and had a cop grab his shot gun he was so determined to get me to cross a bunch of traffic to roll though on the wrong side of the road instead of just lifting the gate for me.

    I am not a fan of driving in Peru. I like Peru I love the people I hate riding my bike here. there is so far nothing fun about it. I hope it gets better in the mountains.

    I knew I wanted to stay in Lima and as I got south of town I soon remembered why. from the luxury of Miraflores right back into the desert, complete with burning garbage and a huge wind off the ocean. Very hot, then the fog rolled in and it was very cold, then I turned inland and it was very hot, where I had a same direction bus force me off the road. I'm telling you the bus drivers are crazy here and the cab drivers too.

    I was glad to get to Paracas. It's a nice little beach town. They roll up the carpets after dark but it's ok. You can take very reasonably priced boat rides to see penguins and sea lions. I'll likely do that.

    I had a decent meal of rice and chicken. I am so tired of rice I doubt I will ever eat it again when I get home.

    I was very pleasantly surprised to meet my French friends that drive the Pinzgauer as they were having their supper. We talked over a couple beers. They are here for a few days, so that's nice. My German friends are on the way here tomorrow with Malene, the Danish girl, so all of a sudden i don't feel so lonely anymore. It's all good.

    My French friends related a horrible story about something they saw in Venezuela when a man was shot and killed in the car in front of them over drugs. His buddy got out of the car and fired about 30 rounds out of a machine gun at the attackers and a ricochet bullet hit Linda in the neck but did not break the skin. She still has a bruise though.


    They said they met 10 people who went to VZ and 9 had problems. I am very glad the border was closed the day i tried to go there, but as far as I know, none of the other four bikes I was with at the time who waited and went had any problems.

    I think this place is a little sketchy at night too but OK in the daytime. You can camp in the Paracas National Park for 1.5 soles but I don't think I'll be doing that.

    I'll post the few pictures I took today, in the morning

    Kedgi
  13. poolman

    poolman Gnarly Poolside Adv.

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    Kedgi,

    Lima is a big city, and I personally do not enjoy big cities in Peru or any other country when traveling by motorcycle.

    One of the best experiences I have ever enjoyed was riding from Cusco through the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu! The ride was only surpassed by the hospitality of the villagers. I hope you have the opportunity to travel through the Sacred Valley region, and if you do feel free to PM and I will be happy to provide route information.

    All the Best,
  14. Scottishman

    Scottishman Been here awhile

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    Really am enjoying your RR, my man.

    Entertaining and enlightening. I am also amazed at your diligence in taking pics and keeping your RR current. It takes a lot of work. I know because I did it for 5 weeks last year in Europe. And I had Internet everywhere, and no issues with ATMs. So keep up the great work!!

    One question for you. My tour starts at Bogata and heads south to Patagonia.I am thinking of going to Cartagena beforehand and the heading to Bogata after a few days. Based on your visit to Cartagena, would you do it again? Do you know if you can fly between the two cities?

    Keep on trucking. Rubber side down.
  15. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    Thanks

    Keeping a ride report is a major time commitment, but for the most part I enjoy it. I am by myself again this morning I have had my breakfast and i'm just hanging out. My backpacker friends are taking the bus from Lima today at noon, so I'll see them tonight.

    One of the hardest things about travel by yourself is filling in downtime. Being in this beachtown is nice, but it is a beachtown where I am by myself and I barely speak the language. Not quite like hanging out in Key West, Florida.

    I plan to take the boat tour here where you can go a see penguins. and sea lions. It sounds pretty cool and it's cheap at 25 soles, but I prefer to wait for Jana, Niko Lawrence and Malene to do it with me. I don't want to be the only English speaker on the boat. My friends can at least translate some things for me. I am lucky that our two agendas are pretty similar for the rest of the trip so i will likely see them from time to time.

    I'm glad i rode up to Cartagena. I wanted to see it. The Old Town is pretty cool. I enjoyed the ride from Bogata up. Bogata was a bugger of a place to get out of. I rode through Medellin early one morning and that was really cool, riding down into the city when you are coming north from Bogata, the view is amazing, then the climb out of the city over the mountains to Honda was incredible. Lots of trucks, but amazing mountain road.

    I do know you can fly between Bogata and Cartagena. I spoke to a guy at the Hostal Boris and I stayed at in Bogata who was doing exactly that.


    Kedgi
  16. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I loved the Miraflores area of Lima. I hated riding in Lima but once you were in Miraflores with the bike parked it was great. I personally really enjoy being in big cities and just walking around looking at stuff. The pawnshop street in Lima was pretty cool. But I sit in the park and people watch, eat at a good cafe, walk the wide sidewalks have a coke at a cafe and watch people go by. I find it all very entertaining and relaxing. That liitle Pastryshop/restaurant called La Mora was excellent in my opinion. I loved going there.

    I spoke to a guy at the hostal in Lima who rode the sacred valley on a 250 he rented. He loved it. Please do send me your route info by PM. That would be great

    Thanks

    Kedgi
  17. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    The day before I left Lima, Jana and i went for a walk and noticed this sign. It appears someone is trying to do something for the poor homeless cats in Lima's Kennedy Square

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    Here are the Australian bikes parked at the Hostal in Lima. I left around ten and i never did see these guys, they still weren't up and about.

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    Based on the stickers on the bikes from OZ it would seem they are headed south, so I may bump into them yet.

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    When i got out of the madness that is Lima traffic i stopped for a coke at roadside Tienda. I liked the names of the beaches on this sign, especially Playa Yaya

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    More desert

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    More desert

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    More desert

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    I finally got to Paracas. When I met my French friend last night he said the stretch from Lima to here was the longest 275kms he's ever driven. I had to agree

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    Last night's supper


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    Your's truly, tired but glad to have arrived in Paracas

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    I went for a walk last night and noticed this Toyota with Ontario plates.

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    and I saw all kinds of wooden cages with a rooster in each one on the roof of a house. They must have cock fighting here.

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    Kedgi
  18. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I took a few pictures today of Paracas. It is a beautiful sunny hot day. A lot of the time along the Peru coast it is overcast and still hot but today it is full on sunshine

    My Hostal

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    It has this nice back deck on the third floor, where they serve a good breakfast that's included in the $32 price for a private room with private bath. It's pricey by Peruvian Standards but i find most of the beach towns are.

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    Here's the view from that back deck

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    In this one you can see the rooster cages on a nearby rooftop

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    This park is across the street from the hostal

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    I went for a walk and I saw this guy in the shade of a palm tree, having his lunch, with two keen observers

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    They would get excited and he would say "tranquillo" and they would calm back down. Tranquillo is a good Spanish word to know. It comes in handy at roadside stops when they are playing ear splitting music. If you ask for tranquillo they will usually turn it down if you're the only one there.


    [​IMG]


    I saw a couple more pelicans closing in on buddy's lunch.

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    The beach was nearly empty today compared to when i arrived on Sunday


    You can rent these umbrellas and chairs

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    Some people have developed some pretty nice businesses along the beach. The town overall though has a third world feel

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    There is already a Doubletree Resort here. It's up the beach a way and I haven't gone to see it. If doubletree is here, no doubt other big American firms will follow.


    It's hot. It's important to have shade.

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    I stopped for a Coke and a bag of Lay's Potato Chips they come with a 10cc restaurant type packett of Mustard in them. I never thought of putting mustard on chips but it's pretty good. Now there's something you can try at home while you're reading my report and you'll almost feel like you're in Peru with me.

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  19. Cal

    Cal Been here awhile

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    Kedgi
    while in Paracas I stayed at a hotel just off the beach, can not remember the name but everyday I would walk up to the Double tree resort and walk in like I was staying there and sit by the pool and swim. when the waiters come by and take your drink and food order and ask for a room number just say you prefer to use cash. It worked for the 3 days I was there, I even played bingo every afternoon while sunning there!

    Great report by the way.
    Cal
  20. Stan Dalone

    Stan Dalone Gotta get me somma dat

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    I am sure I speak for all us FF's here on ADV.
    Thank You, its as close to being there as some of us will ever get! :clap