Lobsters to Llamas, Maritimes to Argentina

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by Kedgi, Oct 7, 2012.

  1. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I took a complete break from eating today. No breakfast dinner or supper, except for three cookies I bought in a mountain village. It was great. I'm not that hungry, I was busy riding all day and I didn't have to face the disappointmnet of more of that crap.

    I'll eat breakfast tomorrow. I'd kill for bacon and eggs and a coffee shop that opens before 8:30

    Kedgi
  2. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I feel that way too. One thing I can't do is dorm rooms, snoring kids that roll in at 3AM. I have been around too long to put up with that.

    I really thought about flying home from Lima and taking a break for a few weeks but when i got up this morning there was marching band and fireworks at 6:08 then 6:19 then 6:23. The racket last night went on til after 1am. Don't people sleep in Nazca? There were at least 6 hotels and hostals in earshot of that racket. I couldn't wait to leave Nazca. I flew out of there determined to get to Cusco and i did.

    Kedgi
  3. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I was in Larry's River on the KLR one day last Summer. i was lost too.

    I saw a place called Surfer Burger in Huanchaco. It said real USA style burgers. I only saw it open once, late, after I had eaten. I thought it was a good idea.

    My biggest complaint in Shediac is winter. Shediac gets Winter...BIG TIME. Tons of snow, breathtaking cold (there is a windchill warning tonight for temps reaching minus 30C) Who needs it? Not me. I've seen enough Winters to last a lifetime. There is a reason no one lives in NB
  4. poolman

    poolman Gnarly Poolside Adv.

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    Kedgi,

    Congratulations on completing the long run from Nazca to Cusco! This is what it must feel like to complete a Dakar stage.

    You are clearly missing familiar food, so I highly recommend you find Paddy's Irish Pub in the morning and enjoy an amazing breakfast or brunch. Paddy's is adjacent to he Plaza, and I found their morning offerings to be unmatched in the region. You mention you lost 20 lbs on this trip; you can easily regain some of this back here!

    Ride Safe,
  5. DRRambler

    DRRambler AKA Albertastrom

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    If terrible drivers and lousy food aren't bad enough, how's this? The Leafs won a hockey game:cry now that's depressing.

    Thanks for your honesty, I suspect things will look up from here on out. I'm looking forward to your Bolivia reports.

    Ride Safe
  6. Scottishman

    Scottishman Been here awhile

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    Hey man, all of Canada is behind you.

    I love your posts, and is inspiring me for my trip later this year.

    So, my thought is, forget about the food for a couple of days. Go to thebest bar you can find tomorrow, drink pails of the best beer you can find and enjoy yourself. Whatever happens, happens. Just don't ride, and always remember how much you love your wife. All willbe cool inthemorning!!

    Sorry for the typos. My PlayBook was acting up.
  7. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    That's funny. I am one of the few Canadians who you couldn't pay to watch hockey. I think I shoul have been born in Miami instead of Toronto, something went wrong there. When I was a kid I liked the Leafs and I think that's the last time they won anything.

    One thing I never mentioned about the bad drivers is, when you're riding across the desert like from Paracas out to Nazca. Opposite direction tractor trailers will come across the yellow line and point their trucks right at you, like to make you think maybe they are not paying attention or have fallen asleep. I had 4 or 5 do it. I'm sure they do it for "sport" Frighten the crap right out of you!
  8. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    It's 6:30. I'm in the lobby working on my ride report. It's freezing. There is no heat in any of these buildings and it about 8 degrees, but to top it all off they are playing Gansta Rap behind the front desk and i have to sit here to use the internet. Lord dyin'

    I have to find another Hostal. I damn near froze last night and all they have is a cold shower. Yikes!

    I booked two nights here because i knew I would need some time today to find a better place.

    It funny two of you mentioned the Irish Bar but that was definitely in my plan to find something to eat.

    I left my friggen down jacket on the bike and it's two blocks away. I gotta go get it. Too cold to type anymore. I have uploaded my pictures from yesterday, my plan was to post them now before I went in search of something to eat. I'll have to do it later.
  9. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I went for a walk looking for Paddy's and i found it located on the central square. Not open yet, maybe they do a breakfast later. In the meantime I saw a Starbucks and had a good coffee and a big cookie. That will hold me over for now

    The Square is impressive. Very beautiful. I sat on Starbuck's balcony and just watched the traffic and the people. I was immediately struck by how quiet it was. They have a law against blowing your horn in Central Cusco. Everywhere else you go the horn blowing is constant. Surely they must see they can still drive without constantly tapping the horn.

    I also saw a Scotiabank machine. I have to start taking money out daily because my bank card expires soon. I'll take my wallet and do that later today.
  10. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    They day started early, when I heard the marching band I couldn't believe it, I got dressed and ran to the front of the hotel to see.

    I caught them just after they passed by the front door

    [​IMG]

    It was 6:25

    [​IMG]

    Talk about a different culture!


    I got up and got the hell out of Nazca and was soon riding roads like this. Absolutely wonderful! This is the stuff motorcycles were made for. As I climbed the temperature dropped and most of the way up except for about 30 miles at the very top where it was freezing and showering ice pellets, it felt like a wonderful Spring day

    [​IMG]

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    Up at the top of the pass the landscape begins to look like this. You do get very close to the clouds. This is a long way up, maybe 15,000 ft

    [​IMG]

    You soon begin to see these guys. My ride has truly been Lobsters to Llamas.


    [​IMG]


    Trusty worked really well, no significant loss of power. There was very little traffic anyway, not much to pass. I noticed at one point my odometer read 44444.4. There was just under 25000k on the bike when I left home, so I have ridden 20,000kms or 12000 miles

    [​IMG]

    Somewhere near the top of the pass Outstanding scenery

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    Then you descend into amazing valleys

    Check this road out. Really fun to ride.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    As you get closer to Cusco, maybe 200kms away you come to this canyon/River Valley and follow the rivers gentle descent for a very long way, maybe 100 miles or so. Sweeping turns in the road, good pavement, warm Springlike weather, A fantastic ride.

    [​IMG]


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    So like I say, parts of a SA trip are outstanding. Some parts, not so much. All in all it's a fantastic ride.

    Kedgi
  11. BKMLWR

    BKMLWR Wondering around...

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    great pics, what a relief that ride must have been...:clap:clap
  12. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    It was nice to get going again and ride an interesting road. I found at first i was a little wobbly in the very tight stuff, I attribute it to sleep deprivation, Nazca style, and a week or more of riding without going around a bend, but by the time I was across the top of the pass and riding the valleys I was having a blast.

    I even laughed when that Murphy's Law guy took over. I rode beautiful pavement all day and I knew in order to make Cusco I would have to ride an hour or so in the dark. Just as it got dark, I ran into unmarked construction, piles of sand left in my lane, lots of animals, goats, cows, pigs sheep, two dogs that chased me. Haha it never fails. If you ride in the dark you're asking for trouble. I had thought about stopping in Abancay (I think I have the name right) 180kms short of Cusco but it was not a very appealing place and I pushed on. It is a good thing I got the guys at Motoperfomance Plus in Lima to re-aim my headlight or would have had to stop short of Cusco.

    Kedgi
  13. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    I walked over to Paddy's again. They are still not open and I was hungry. I saw a picture of bacon eggs and toast in a restaurant window. It looked good and that's what i ordered. i ended up getting eggs, they did a good job on, ham, and rolls but it was OK. I was hungry and it was edible. Cusco's pricey though that was about $8.00. That really high by Peruvian standards. I'll check out paddy's later today.

    Kedgi
  14. SS in Vzla.

    SS in Vzla. Totally Normal? I'm not!

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    Glad to see you got to a place where you can rest from the road for a few days and also relax.

    While the road can sometimes be hard or unpleasant, like John said: if the bad days outnumber the good days, then there is something wrong in the equation...

    Not managing to communicate is tough, there are some people that might be more outgoing than others and might manage to get their way through without speaking a language, but its not the case for everyone and can be a major handicap if one is a shy person (not implying you are one or the other as I do not know you except from this RR)... I suggest you take your time whenever internet access allows and plan your route. I don't mean only the road you are taking, but also the places you'd like to sleep and eat in. There have been plenty of riders before you who've posted their impressions on a given road (is it too long for one day? is it too hot? too many crooked cops? etc) on a good attraction and on good (or bad) places to eat and sleep. The big picture changes entirely if you know you are enduring an awful road (because that's the only way there is to the place you want to go) but there is a nice hostel with secure parking and a thick steak at the end of the day waiting for you.

    It is difficult enough to ask directions when you get late at night, tired, maybe even wet to the bones into a strange city where even if you speak the language people won't know what you need (a clean, cheap, noise-free place with secure parking for the bike) so it might be close to impossible with the language barrier. So, I suggest you get on-line, get some waypoints of things you like and put them in your GPS, I'm sure your trip will be much more enjoyable that way. It won't work for every single day, and I'm not suggesting you follow the planning to the letter, but I'm sure advanced planning will help you a lot.

    Not meaning any disrespect since I'm sure you know what you are doing and have thousands of miles under your belt, but skipping meals all day long or even eating very little while on the road for several days at a time IMHO, is not a wise decision... Even if you don't like the food, your body needs fuel to function at peak capacity. Peak capacity is a good thing when riding a motorcycle. I'm sure one of the reasons you are not enjoying yourself and holding back from doing stuff is because you are malnourished (like not climbing the tower at Nazca Lines, even though I'd personally say you dind't miss anything special).

    Take your time to find a supermarket (SUPER MERCADO) or a small store (TIENDA) and do some shopping... buy cookies, some canned food, cheese, bread, olives, eggs, whatever you like to eat... So if you don't find anything you fancy while on the road (or even at night when you got late to the hotel) just dig into the stash in your panniers.

    Hope this helps and your trip improves!
    Ride safe
  15. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    i appreciate the input and that's pretty much what i do, when i leave a place i know where I'm headed. I stretched it yesterday only because Abancay was so undesirable and I knew I could make Cusco.

    I think my problem mostly is it's just not fun going to see tourist attractions by yourself, whether it's Niagra Falls, Disney world or Macchu Picchu. I don't mind riding by myself , actually i quite enjoy it. But when you get to a place like this, Cusco which i would describe as Disney World, Peruvian style (just mobbed with tourists) It's not fun by yourself.

    To be honest i could care less if I ever saw Macchu Picchu. I'm just not a sight see'er. I love meeting people and riding and that's really why i'm here. My several day drought of meeting anyone and having really bad riding has led to my depression about the trip.

    I went to Norton's today and asked about their guest book for long distance riders. The Peruvian waiter behind the bar asked me several times "You want to buy a book?" Then he said there is no such book. I wonder if there is. I've heard there is. If there is, why wouldn't he know? I know he understood i was a long distance moto traveler. It's a mystery.

    The eating...I just can't face it anymore. I hate getting a meal here. I eat when I absolutely have to but I really force myself to do it, I think it's that bad. I don't see another option. It's eat something you'd rather not eat or don't eat. I enjoyed my break from food yesterday. Today's breakfast was more of the same. You don't get what you ordered and it's not that good. I skipped lunch again. Too much trouble for something you just don't want. I have tried the tiendas with some success. Sublime chocolate bars and yogurt, bananas and cashews. I know I won't starve, but i sure miss a meal i enjoy at the end of a long day

    I really do appreciate your input and I guess we are all different, If going hungry is the price I have to pay to ride roads like I rode yesterday, it's OK with me. Fighting Disney like crowds and paying $150 to see Macchu Picchu, no thanks.

    I think a lot of people think I am somehow unhappy with the ride and that's not the case. It's been great, just the last several days, minus my great time in Lima have sucked and that's why I write it for you all to read. It's the way I see it.

    I am looking forward to Miami. I have lost interest in SA.

    Kedgi
  16. poolman

    poolman Gnarly Poolside Adv.

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    Kedgi,

    Tell the bartender you are looking for this book:
    [​IMG]


    Also, you may want to talk with Alex Luna, owner of Peru Moto Tours two blocks off the main plaza. Alex has tons of international clients and can give you suggestions for restaurants, lodging, etc. He was a huge help to me and I have found him to be very trustworthy. He also has specially negotiated rates with many hotels he uses on his tours.

    I hope the great ride yesterday is an indicator of great times ahead!

    PS Please have a cold Cuesquena for me :freaky


    Cheers,
  17. FrozenAssets

    FrozenAssets n00b

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    I have been following along albeit quitely. Great RR. I lived in NB for 10 years and share your sentiment on winters. Now I live in one of the coldest places in CAD (ah, the realities of life) and this site & the RRs on it are a coping mechanism for me through the harsh & long northern winters.
    I just wanted to thank you for your honesty, style of writing and to saying it like you see it. I have read tons of RRs on this site and yours is one that answered a few questions for me regarding some of the effects of going on long trip on a moto. I am dreamer and I dream about doing such a trip in the not too distant future and your insights on food, being alone, handling new places, new cultures, challenges with food, border crossings and the language barrier are most enlightening. I find too many a RRs leave these details out and focus on the other aspects of the trips, which is fine and interesting to read but it also helps to read when things other than mechanical are not going well and what the impact on the person is. So I commend you for being so honest and open. :clap
    I wish you all the best and I will be following along whether you extend your trip or turn back to NB. Bon Voyage!
    Cheers!
  18. Kedgi

    Kedgi Banned

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    Thanks Poolman that's amazing. I'm going to walk over there tonight and ask again. I've decided to head for Chile tomorrow. I have had enough of Peru. So any riders who have recently passed through Bolivia told me they have practically had to beg for gas. I don't want the hassle.

    I am thinking I will start making arrangements to head to either Houston and see my friends in Port Aransas or Miami and see my friends in Key West or maybe Houston, is better, so I can do both

    I do want to ride to Argentina as I intended but cut a few weeks off the trip.

    kedgi
  19. Cal

    Cal Been here awhile

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    Kedgi
    Cutting a few weeks from a 3 month trip is not the end of the world, its your trip and your decesion. I have been in your position while travelling alone in spanish speaking countries, 3 years ago after 2 months riding in Central America I was follwing a diesel bus up a hill breathing in all the black smoke and it was at that moment I hit the wall and decided the next day I would turn around and ride back to Canada, I had had enough!:eek1 I needed a rest from the travell.
    I decided that to enjoy the culture more I would need better language skills and found a private tutor and studied very hard for 2 years and am now much more confident with the language.
    You and I are the same age and I know learning Spanish is tuff, but it can be done! Just wish I had have listened to all those French lessons we were forced to take back in grade school. Hindsight!
    Cheers from the frozen north
  20. cesargarcia529

    cesargarcia529 n00b

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    kedgi[/QUOTE]


    [​IMG]

    [/QUOTE]

    :clap:clap:clap:clap:freaky:freaky:freaky:freaky:freaky:freaky

    I am Cesar Garcia.
    Sorry my English is very bad :shog:shog .

    I live in Medellin Colombia :thumb:thumb:thumb.

    I was in the desert between Piura and Chiclayo without fuel :baldy:baldy:baldy:baldy:baldy. then watch kedgi going on a motorcycle KLR650.

    Thank thank thank you I will be eternally grateful for your help.

    You know you have a friend in Medellin Colombia for more when you come :dutch:dutch:dutch:dutch :freaky:freaky:freaky:freaky.

    Here is the video when we are desert


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLkmpkydUnc

    Bon voyage my friend :thumb:thumb:thumb