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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by lightsorce, Sep 9, 2007.
I already crossed the product.
I will report that back up the rumor chain. Again, thanks Dirty!
Great thread. I just resupplied myself from the local auto parts store, but I didn't see anyone ask the key Loctite question:
Why does the red stuff come in a little blue tube, and why does the blue stuff come in a little red tube?
I haven't figured that one out yet either.
Just keep in mind when it comes to all brands of threadlockers the actual color of the product (not the plastic bottle, lablel, or tube):
Blue products are considered "Service Removable" ..removable with hand tools such as 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive.
Red products are considered "Permenant" ..heat from a blow torch may be required to soften the cured product enough for removal to prevent breaking/twisting the bolt during disassembly. Red is an overkill on most all threadlocking applications on a bike....Unless a red product is spec'ed in by the OEM, then listen to them.
Additionally, I still haven't quite figured out why the chicken crossed the road either but I suspect his actions could be related to the close proximity of the KFC.
Ah yes! I remember that well!
Is this the loctite thread? I have a question. I have an aluminum brake disc carrier threaded onto an aluminum hub. This is a bicycle setup. I've put on a ton of loctite 609 to help keep it solid. This is sort of a quickie repair where the threads are toast but I've keyed the parts to keep them together.
So let's say I want this 609 to cure, including the bead which is around the edge of the carrier. Is there a non solvent activator I can spray on now that it is already applied? Can I just use some spray paint?
P-ho- You have only one of the two components needed to make the 609 Retaining compound cure.
Anaerobic products (threadlockers, sealants, gasketing prods., and bearing retainers) need absence of air (think-airspace between thread roots, or cylindrical fits) in contact with active metals (tarnishes, rusts, corrodes, or holds a magent).
Aluminim hub with an aluminum disk brake carrier...You'll need to prime one of the surfaces (I suggest the hub) with Primer N to force the 609 to cure properly. Primer N is solvent based.
If 609 is all you have and you don't want to buy another product, by all means use what you brung. I'm only asking because 609 is fairly low in viscocity at 125 centipoids (behaves like 10wt motor oil) and has a rather limited cure through ability at 0.005"
If the threads really are that screwed up, primer with Primer N, and use 660 Quick Metal (toothpaste thick) which can cure through a 0.020" gap.
If you are wary of spraying a solvent on the hub, spray the product in a small container and then apply it with a Q-Tip, a pipe cleaner, or even a toothpick.
You mentioned how the threads are buggered up. If they are REALLY bad, I'd suggest 660 Quick Metal which cures through a larger gap than 609. If the threads are just plain bad, 609 will still likely be an overkill on the strength side of things.
Peace, Love and Glue,
Thanks. In retrospect I should have used primer when I first assembled. But it's all together and I have machined in some woodruff type keys. I just noticed that it had a slight bit of a wiggle to it, so I put some 609 into the gaps in the hope that it would add a bit of strength to it. Can't take it apart right now.
If I spray a solvent-based activator will it remove existing 609?
If you can't break it apart, heat is you friend. Once you break it apart, use of a scraper can be used to remove any product remnants.
There aren't any spray-on removers I'm aware of.
What I'm wondering, is if I can spray on some activator after the 609 has been applied, around the edges, or will it ruin the application.
You sure can.
By spraying or dripping Primer N on the fillet also known as the squeezeout, it'll cure up and cure very slightly into the area of threaded engagement.
Awesome. I'll go get some.
Well the 7649 didn't seem to do anything. I sprayed it on and let it sit for 5 hours and the 609 fillet is still liquid. Blah, I just spray painted over it.
OK guys, just thought I could ask a quick question in here.
I am replacing the rear pivot bearings on my GS and I believe they call for Loctite 270 on the large pivot pins.
Would Red Loctite (271 I believe) work as well?
Great question. 270 is spec'ed in as a Euro-only available product. 271, pn. 27221 (10ml bottle), also a red high strength threadlocker is the ideal equivalent for the left side of the pond.
This question comes up often... 270 is green, not red.
You can get some here among other places.
Kick ass, I had no idea!
Yeah, I had read that before.
http://www.cnctar.hunbay.com/Svejk/Loctite%20ragaszt%F3k/Loctite%20270.pdf which looks like a Loctite Technical Data Sheet says its green???
We're talking about 271, which is red........I don't think he meant to put the "ALSO" in his description, as we know 270 is green.