Loctite

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by lightsorce, Sep 9, 2007.

  1. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Todd-

    Once the gasket has taken a compression set (discussed earlier in this thread) and this is exactly what has happened...and I'd bet a dollar on it.

    Since you already have a seeper on your hands the gasketed surface has already been contaminated. Short of splitting the cases, you're not going to be able to clean the mating surfaces of the gasket.

    Don't despair dear Todd, for I have a fix:freaky

    My chain saw and LC4 lump was doing the very same thing.

    The KTM had a small weep where the rocker arm shafts exited the valve cover thanks to the O-Ring seals taking a compression set.

    The old Craftsman chainsaw was bought back in the mid-70's and leaked gas pretty badly. It didn't have a free standing tank, the tank was made up of the left and right half of the case.

    Here's how I fixed both, but in your case you might consider taking the bike for a spin, get her up to temp, and drain the oil while it's hot and flows a bit easier. Let it drain overnight if you can so the hot oil is encouraged to flow out of the leaking case seam.

    Clean and degrease the affected areas and use a toothbrush for a little more cleaning and agitation and extend out a bit just to make it better.

    Using an oxime-cure RTV Silicone (one that doesn't have a vinegar smell) like Loctite 598, or Instant Gasket, draw you a bead on the suspect gasketed areas. Flatten out that bead with a cheapie Harbor Freight Metal handle small paint brush with the bristles cut down so they're half length and work the RTV out about 1/4" from the seam.

    Don't use a blue, a red, or a clear RTV to make this fix (The brand does not matter) These kinds of RTV's do not play well with fuels or oils...at all.

    5 or 6 years later my chainsaw still doesn't leak, and roughly 2 years later the valve cover on the KTM doesn't leak either.

    You're done. Let it sit overnight, oil her up and show us some pics when you get back.

    Dirty

  2. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    is there a product for loose seals in the case (viton coated steel to aluminum)- the opposite of a speedi-sleeve? to set a seals o.d......?
  3. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Put a shot of 7649 Primer N enough to completely wet out both the OD of the seal and the ID of the aluminum part, let it evaporate, then draw an adequate bead of 515 or 518 Gasket Eliminator on the ID of the aluminum part, slip it/press it together within 2 to 5 minutes, wipe off any squeezeout and you'll be in high cotton. Let it sit two to three hours if possible.

    Working quickly and accurately is uber important because use of the primer kickstarts the fixture of the Gasket Eliminator.

    Dirty

  4. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    awesome, thanks!
  5. todd83-900t

    todd83-900t Been here awhile

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    Thanks!
  6. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Team-

    Heading off to work the Loctite Tent in Sturgis on Main Street in the parking lot immediately North of the HD dealership until Sunday.

    If you go, stop by the booth and don't forget to give the old ADV salute to the first person you see at the booth and then tell 'em you're looking for some cat named Chip from down south in Louisiana.

    Dirty
  7. atomicalex

    atomicalex silly aluminum boxes

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    Woohoo!! A whole thread about our stuffs!!! :clap

    Katherine here, also from the Loctite/Henkel Team, from the other side of the pond. Keep the questions coming, and let us know if you find unusual uses for the products. We can learn, too.....
  8. Dexter2811

    Dexter2811 Been here awhile

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    Dirty, I have a delrin piece that broke, this is the speedometer gear and it will take a month or so to get the replacement, so I don't want to ride without using the odometer. I've tried "superglue" and it didn't held. So, what can I use?

    [​IMG]

    The broken piece is #15 in the pic, and it particulary broke the 2 pieces that sitcks out the gear and locks into the wheel hub.
  9. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    What do you suggest for glueing Valeo magnets back to the housing? It was recommended to use Loctite 325 SpeedBonder / Loctite 707 Activator, but I looked for it at one point a few years ago and found none here in town.

    Is that what you'd use? Would I have to order it from you - seems the auto parts stores around here don't carry much in the way of Loc-tite products.
  10. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Dexter/Spokes-

    I'll call Tech Product Support on Wednesday and get back to you Dexter.

    Spokes-The Speedbonder product you mentioned is called a Two-Step Acrylic. The glue part flat out won't do a thing without the use of that Activator. I think that family of products would be a good choice...quick, tough, play well with water, play well with the violence a front wheel sees. You're never going to find this sort of adhesive at an auto parts place. An Industrial Supply house like a Motion Industries, a Hisco, RS Hughes, Applied, Grainger, Fastenal could get this sort of product but they're not going to stock an odd-ball product like this.

    Dirty
  11. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Dirty - this is a Valeo Starter motor. It's a permanent magnet motor and they're glued to the inner part of the housing. The first 20 years these starters were used on BMW twins the glue would sometimes give way and allow the magnets to come loose and stick to the armature, locking up the motor.

    Do you still feel this is the best product for the application?
  12. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Magnet bonding for applications just like this have a whole section in the Loctite catalog.

    PM me with your number so we can talk this through.

    Dirty



  13. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Actually, the Valeo starters are made in France, and they've got a very good reputation. I guess they make starters for just about everything produced in europe from trucks to high-end sports cars. Other applications didn't have the 'dropped-magnet' problem, it was somehow a problem with the bmw bikes. But that was solved with different glue and added retainers between the magnets as the upgraded units don't have that problem.
  14. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    The Nordwest (Italian) radiator fan motors had the same problems. Epoxy would deteriorate with time and the magnets would drop on to the armature.
  15. ttpete

    ttpete Rectum Non Bustibus

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    It's a heat problem. Heat softens the epoxy and causes it to fail.
  16. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    there was a run of valeo guzzi starters that had the same problem. they're basically the same starter. i have a valeo guzzi starter that works perfect, but i bought it after that first run that dropped magnets...
  17. Spray Head

    Spray Head n00b

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    Nice to hear. i was on the marketing and sales team that introduced "QuickStix" back in 2003. Have you used the stick yet?

  18. JTT

    JTT Long timer

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    I have. Greatest thing since beer :freaky Love it, and have virtually done away with my liquid versions. A little hard to find in these parts though I must admit.
  19. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Head-are you a fellow Henkeler by chance?

    Dirty
  20. infoatnmmoto

    infoatnmmoto with the band

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    I have a pair of sneakers that the heel came off.
    They were otherwise in good shape.
    Got some of this.
    [​IMG]

    Two years later those sneakers are still running.:d