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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by lightsorce, Sep 9, 2007.
Thanks Dirty, I thought I knew what I was doing with loctite but I didn't know shit.. Thank again.
Don't feel bad.
I'm still trying to hone my lobotomy skills.
I mistakenly bought loctite 242 instead of 243 for my new brake rotors. From what I've been able to find, they seem the same, or at least very close. Will 242 work instead of 243?
I can see no reason to prefer one over the other. In fact, it would seem the 242 is the military spec version of the good old blue Loctite 243. Both have the same applications listed in the Loctite data sheets.
Do not despair.
Both of these threadlockers have very similar qualities and have very similar breakloose and prevailing torques.
243 is more oil tolerant-meaning it works best on "as received" fasteners which come slightly oiled. It is a newer alternative to the 40 year old 242.
When using 243, you don't have to clean and degrease the fastener before applying the threadlocker like you have to when using 242.
243 is a threadlocker that does not require you to shake the container to mix the contents.
We already have a Loctite thread here:
I propose we keep all threadlocking, gasketing, threadsealing, bonding questions in the Loctite Thread.
Hey Mods- could you move this thread on to the Loctite thread please?
I am ADVriders very own unofficial official Loctite factory rep and I approved this message.
Done deal. Thanks for all of your insight. Really great!
What's the story with the purple ones?
Don't eat the purple threadlocker!
Purple threadlocker is 222MS Low strength removable. It has the lowest breakloose and prevailing torque of all of our threadlockers.
Consider using 222 if you're using a small allen wrench, a 1/4" wrachet, a phillips or flathead screwdriver, a nut driver, small jewler's screwdrivers, or are a watchmaker.
Were would you use it? Small nuts and bolts, screws on the temple pieces on eyeglasses, small set screws, etc.
We developed it for Bausch & Lomb (sp?) way back when to help them lower their warranty claims on their eye glass frames falling apart from loosening fasteners.
The only place I've ever used 222 on my bike is on the wire terminal screws when I mounted the centec fuse block.
Isn't part of the brief on the purple ones that they permit adjustments to be made? They never really set, like hylomar-type sealants? Or was that some late-night crack dream?
The 222 (purple/grapeish color) does cure. Once it begins to dure, I don't recommend making any more adustments.
This guy has it all "Rong" and is asking for trouble, I advise you not to follow his lead-
If you are using anything in a blind hole, be it loctite or a lubricant, don't use too much. If you get a bunch of anything in a blind hole, you can create a hydraulic lock when you install the bolt, and you can blow the back out of whatever you are screwing the bolt into. Don't ask how I know this, but I have proven this too many times!
Also, I haven't seen it mentioned, but the stick loctite products are available in blue, red, anti-sieze (both copper and nickel) and pipe sealant with teflon. I've used them all with good results.
Picked up some 567 and primer today. Got some pipe threads to seal on Monday.
OK, here's a tough (I think) app for you...
What should I use to hold the needle-jet holder in the stock carb on my XR650R?
The needle jet holder screws into the carb body (obviously, theres plenty gasoline about) and then the main jet screw into the bottom of that. IF I could lock my needle jet holder down I could change my main jet simply by taking the big cap off the bottom of the carb. What USUALLY happens is that when I try and extract the main jet the NJ holder also spins free, and by virtue of the fact that there's an... anti-slosh cup? trapped between, the entire assembly will NOT come out the bottom so I have to take the bowl off....
You'll likely need to remove the needle jet holder in the future, plus, these are small parts with relatively fine threads, so using a red threadlocker would be prudent at this here juncture.
Then, you'll be fiddling with the main jet-installing and uninstalling periodically which as you install and tighten that main jet you very well may exceed the breakloose torque of a low strength 222 threadlocker if it were applied to the threads of the needle jet holder. So, I think 222 is out as well.
Get out your trusty old blue threadlocker, start off with clean dry threads, apply some blue to the bottom 3 or 4 threads (one free falling drop would be too much, so be careful) to the needle jet holder. Spread the threadlocker around the needlejet holder and make sure to get the material in the 3 to 4 threads all the way in the thread roots, then gently blot with a paper towel. don't blot off all of the blue, just blot to the point you can see roughly half of the thread depth. We blot because we don't want any squeezeout to go where it shouldn't. Install to the proper depth and let sit overnight.
Now you'll be able to swap mains and not have to worry about spinning the needle jet holder.
This very application is similar to installing studs. You use a high strength threadlocker (with a higher breakloose and prevailing torque) to hold the stud in place, then you use a medium strength threadlocker (lower breakloose and prevailing) on the nut. This way, upon removal, the nut can be removed from the stud without the stud turning in it's hole.
Don't forget carbs are chocker block full of tiny passeges, so don't go banana's with the amount of threadlocker.
Don't drive like my brother.
Quick Question -- I've heard it's good to clean the old gunk from the threads when I undo and replace a bolt that had blue loctite on it. I can clean the bolt threads easily enough with a wire wheel. What can I do about the hole threads?
A wire wheel on the male threads will clean it good enough for Gov't work.
Blow out the female hole for any remnants/dust/powder and you'll be in high cotton, or you could run the cleaned male bolt in and out of the hole a few times to loosen things up just a bit, then blow out the hole.
Used the blue and red sticks on a recent Mongolia/Russia ride.
Works so good...and they don't melt at 120F.
Nothing shook loose.
So, Dirty Sanchez. Let's say I wanted 2 pieces of aluminium, about 4X6" to really stick together and be Very strong, like forever. They would be clamped to each other with (4) 6mm bolts. Most of the load will be in shear .
Got a recommendation? I was thinking E 120HP?
With a thread tool of course...
Be sure to feed it in by hand, and first turn it backwards until you feel it (ever so slight) thump into place straight...
H8600 shows shear on aluminum of 4,500 psi.
E120HP shows shear on aluminum 4,800 psi.
Either resin would be just fine to use.
The H8600 has an open time of 10 to 15 minutes and fixes in about 45 minutes.
The E120HP has an open time of about 120 minutes and fixes in about 2.5 to 3 hours.
Whichever resin you choose, make sure to either sandblast or grind the areas to be bonded to show a near white metal finish to ensure you have the greatest anchor profile.
You'll have to buy the resin, and mixing nozzles. I don't know where you're from, but if I know the Locite guy in your area, he just might loan you his dispense gun to keep you from buying one.
PM me for further offline info.