Loctite

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by lightsorce, Sep 9, 2007.

  1. GSWayne

    GSWayne Old Guy nOOb

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    If glass flowed it would be impossible to make accurate optics and things like telescopes and camera lenses would quickly become useless. Good optics are precise to almost atomic dimensions and will hold that precision for years.
  2. fallingoff

    fallingoff Banned

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    quote from sister at nasa

    ''Glass is technically a liquid. However the time to flow so you could see it is very long. Early glass makers did not have the float glass system and so making flat glass was tricky. It was naturally uneven. It would be natural to put the thick part at the bottom.
    Glass does not have long range order,I.e. the atoms are not arranged regularly to make a crystal structure.''

    well that explains that urban legend

    cheers
  3. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    recommended loctite retaining compound for o.d. of seals with nitrile coating? seal surface is good, seal went in tight. it still likes to push itself out after a few hours of hard running......
  4. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    If the ID of the hole is ferrous OR non-ferrous I'd hit the mating surface of the seal with a quick shot of 7649 Primer N to activate the surface, then apply a thin bead spread around the metal hole with a Q-Tip any of the thicker viscosity retaining compounds. This should work fine.

    Remember, a thinnish bead. We're trying to minimize the squeezeout to the innards of the engine. Don't glob it on-thus the Q-Tip trick to help you better control the amount of retaining compound you apply.

    Then gently drive the seal into place and let it sit overnight.

    As far as a specific product suggestion in absolutely no order of importance: 620, 609, 680, 603, 660.

    Good Question, Great Application! Thanks for asking-this question and answer will get someone out of a jam one of these days.

    Dirty
  5. dondy

    dondy n00b

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    Hello to all, I'm new here and loctite topic bring me in... A lot of great info on a subject!

    I'm curetly removing old studs from my vespa hub, because they are to short for new aluminium wheels. I need to replace them with longer one.
    The old ones had no thread in the middle so they are locking on one side with no threaded part, and on the back side they are punched at the end and are locked not to unscrew.
    I bought new studs, but they are threaded all the way, and I have no tool to punch them on the back, and also don't want to brake hub (it's aluminium).
    The best solution I could think of is loctite.
    Wich one to use? When those studs are in place i need to fasten rim on them. Studs are M8.
    I will have no need to remove the studs again (eventualy for few years if I damage the treads)
    Where I live I found only 2701 as the strongest threadlocker (green), i think 243 is to weak for my needs.
    I hope i explaind well, sry for my lack o english..

    Thanks for any help!
  6. dondy

    dondy n00b

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    ...pictures will explain better....

    [​IMG]

    Front side:
    [​IMG]

    Back side:
    [​IMG]
  7. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Dondy- I know those hubs well.

    I've bought, sold, restored, rebuilt, etc., etc., many many dozens of old two-stroke small frame, and large frame vespas through the years.

    Any Red threadlocker will work just fine for this application. Just remember, if you ever have to remove the studs you'll likely have to heat the area of the hub surrounding the stud until you see the first sign of smoke. By doing so, you will have softened up the red threadlocker to the point you can remove the stud without damaging the threads in the aluminum hub.

    The backside of the wheel studs take 6mm allen wrench for removal if I remember correctly. Those hubs look to have many coats of silver paint on them and must be removed to bare metal before you should even consider trying an allen wrench to remove those studs.

    Once you get the paint off inside of the allen wrench holes, take a microtorch-the sort crack heads use and heat the hub in the area where the stud is held captive. It'll come out. Trust me.

    Dirty
  8. dondy

    dondy n00b

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    Thank you far a fast answer.
    I'm ok with taking them of, I already did one, but needed to grind back side because they are punched and streched, and unscrew to front (to save the iner thread).

    I'm having a problem to find red locker (find on henkel page that 272 will do the yob), so instead I bought 2701 (green), the strongest i could find.
    Will the green one do the yob ?
  9. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    I wouldn't worry too much about the number of the threadlocker since we have different numbered products here in the States. Green and Red threadlockers in the Loctite Brand are all stronger than Blue products.

    You will be fine by selecting a Green threadlocker to secure the wheel studs into the hub.

    Ride Safe!

    Dirty
  10. dondy

    dondy n00b

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    :bow
    Thank you dirty! I read all the 40 pages of this topic, and I know that I can trust you!

    PS.
    Green is also heat separate only ?
  11. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Heat to remove with a green or a red product? Yes, it is advised to do so.

    Dirty
  12. dondy

    dondy n00b

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    Thanks! I hope I will not lose the weels.. :D

    Now mowing to the two stroke part.. lot's intresting stuff to read...
  13. marchyman

    marchyman DR and GS

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    Hey Dirty... how come you never told us about Freeze and Release?

    I used it to help remove some bearing races. Still had to cut the races, but they came out much easer than I remembered from the previous replacement. I think the Freeze and Release helped.
  14. nfranco

    nfranco over macho grande?

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    Hi Dirty,
    I need to plug a hole in an aluminum transfer case with a steel pipe plug to separate the transmission oil from the transfer case oil, gear oil on both sides.
    Is 266 the right product for this?
    The plug will be permanent.
    Thank you as always.
    nick
  15. just jeff

    just jeff Long timer

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    Hi Dirty!
    I am wondering if Loctite's thread repair would be a good choice to repair stripped valve cover holes in a KLR 650 head. The thread is M6 and about 12mm long.
    Is there a thread repair product that is capable of higher than 300 degrees? Not sure how hot the head might get. It is liquid cooled and has a rubber gasket so I am thinking it should be OK but am interested in higher temp possibilities.

    I found this thread about a year ago and have found it very informative and entertaining too! :clap:clap:clap

    Best Regards....justjeff
  16. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Nick-I'd use 545 in this application, a 10ml bottle is as small as it gets- pn.32429

    266 is a threadlocker.

    FWIW... the 2XX like the 242, 262, 266, 271, 277, etc., etc., are all threadlockers and the lower the numbers typically denote lower strengths-higher numbers denote higher strength.

    5XX are a bit more confusing because this number series refers to both threadsealants and anaerobic gasket eliminators. The higher the numbers in the case of these two familes of products does not hold true.

    The 6XX series are all retaining compounds. And in this product category higher numbers do not necessarily mean the products are stronger.

    Dirty
  17. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    Jeff- Have you ever heard of a Timesert?:deal

    The very same thing happened on Tiny D's 250SXF valve cover bolt holes awhile back-he still hasn't quite figured out exactly how "tight" "tight" has to be, but it wasn't the end of the world but it was a learning experience for him.

    Oh, yeah how 'bout those Tigers!

    Umm, I'm sorry what did you ask me again?

    Dirty
  18. just jeff

    just jeff Long timer

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    Hi Dirty!

    Being a machinist I have installed both Timeserts and Helicoils many times. Are you saying that the Loctite Thread Repair would not be a viable alternative, say for someone who is not skilled in installing a helicoil? Or for a field repair?

    The reason I am asking is the question came up on KLRForum where I spend a lot of time and I remembered reading about Loctite thread repair on this forum. I will report back with your response.

    Best Regards....justjeff
  19. khpossum

    khpossum poster

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    My XChallenge has a plastic tank. On top is a vent cap that is bolted to the tank with course SS screws, probably self tapping. Some of the threads in the tank are stripped. The threaded tank holes are blind holes. Does the Loctite form a thread have any chance of working in this application?
  20. flxibl2006

    flxibl2006 noobwan

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    I think he is saying without saying, know what I am saying? I have the same problem, '08 KLR650 right front valve cover bolt stripped. Found many of the same bolt holes stripped in my quest on many multiples of sights It is a special flange head bolt so using a longer bolt is not feasible. The bike is in a very "rural" area in the south central Philippines so no Graingers or anything else around the corner. Whatever the fix it needs to be strong and done with normal shop tools (ie no machines)
    Thanks, Scott