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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by bmwhd, Dec 2, 2005.
Thanks for the info!
I will definitely check these out!
The tallest of the KLX250 family is the 06/07 enduro. My wife at 5'5" can't really get a tip toe on the ground but is close.
The 09 and newer models are about 1 1/2' shorter.
You'll lose another 1 1/2" if you get the D-trecker (17" "super motard" wheels); you can put some semi off road tires on those but not too aggressive.
The shortest KLX I can think of would be one of the new bodies (09 and later), with 17" wheels, 2" kouba lowering links, forks thru the triple clamps and seat cut down an inch or so. That would be slightly lower than a Honda CRF230L.
I'd probably go with the Honda though as what I just described is playing with the geometry quite a bit. Besides the Honda has a shorter wheelbase and you can get away with less ground clearance with shorter wheel base.
The 230 also has loads of torque off idle which is great for beginers. It even beats the KLX250 and the WR250 torque wise just off idle.
The KTM 350 freeride is almost as short as a Honda 230 + it's nearly 50 lbs lighter than a KLX250 making it even easier to handle. There just coming out in Malaysia though (meaning probably another 2 years in the US ) and are a chunk more expensive, + going off just the maintenance schedule it doesn't look like they'll be in the same league reliability wise.
Honda also just released the CRF250L which is a bit shorter than the KLX though heavier...
I purchased a KLX 250 last year that was already lowered and had the seat cut.. I am 5'2 as well and am still tippy toed on it.. I am having a ball riding it but a bit tricker off road on tough terrain. I have laid her down a few times and when we are going over real rocky places where I have only holes to put my feet into if I need help I push it or my BF takes it for me. I have riden on road bikes for 10 years but getting used to off road is so different. I would not change this bike for anything. this forum is great for help and great advice. each ride I take its easier and easier more confident also. I just need to get the stand cut down so she doesnt stand straight up parked. I am hoping to be able to use a flat foot on it but I am not finding where one is made for it. Mind you I am still learning a more aggressive form of riding that I have been used to but I am hooked!!! And I am 50 years old trying a new sport!!! I also just purchased a new versys where I am tippy toed on it, but this is a bigger bike and have lowered it and will be modifying this seat.. but I dont see myself taking this one out where I take the klx250..
What is the best offroad (but still street legal) tire for this bike ? And which is the best 'bang for the buck' ?
The stock front sprocket is 13T and rear is 42T. 42 is devidable by 13 and equals 3. Some people told me this is bad for wear on both chain and sprockets. Is this correct ? Are you better of with for example a 44T on the rear giving 44/13 = 3,384615384615385.. ? So that way all the links will run over all of the teeth.
The selection of tires in Europe is different than North America. You can get some we never see. Tire threads and oil threads never end. There is no one "best" tire, it all depends on the conditions it's used in.
Stock gearing on mine was 14/42. Run the gearing that works best for what you are doing with the bike. I put a 13 CS on mine to "tune" it toward off road.
When it comes to best bang for the buck dual sport tires I am on board with the Duro Median HF903/904 at about $120 for the pair. I've run them over the past ten years and 30,000 miles on my KLX650. They stick as good as Avons on the pavement, but get really good traction in dirt. If they do the right size rear tire for the 250 I'd recommend them highly. One of the best parts is that they are cheap enough that you don't feel particularly bad replacing both at the same time and doing so before they're totally bald. The tread has an interesting web design between the knobs running from side to side. It cuts down on the knob flex when cornering, but the tread depth is still there across the tread, making it sort of a paddle effect.
Again, I know there will be those who disagree and that's fine. I just know this has been a fantastic tire set for me, getting traction wherever I've gone with friends running other tires (some being rather costly), so I haven't bothered trying anything else.
I wouldn't get too shook up about the chain thing, you might gain an exta hundred miles or something. I've never read or seen anyone having problems with the even tooth count thing. It is more theoretical than real. I'm thinking you will trash the chain out due to dirt and crud long before any tooth count contact comes into play.
When it comes to gearing though, the trick is to be as versatile as possible.
I'd recommend getting a good street gearing using the biggest front sprocket you can get, maybe 17 or 16, which ever is biggest possible, then size up a decent size rear sprocket. Using a 17/51 or 16/48 gives just a shade higher gearing than stock, which is good for road use, maybe even go to a 17/48 or 16/45. The idea being you can run a road gear then swap the front sprocket out for a 14 or 13 to have some serious lower gearing for some actual back country or off road riding. I used to swap out front sprockets on my old MB5 and Bultaco Sherpa T. One tooth made some serious differences.
As for the whole tooth count thing, don't sweat it.
Never heard of a stock 13 CS on the KLX250 '06 to current. All 14 that I know of. see gearingcommander.com for your 13/42 wear issue, which is correct I believe, but will it make a noticeable wear difference on this bike? I don't think significantly so.
Are there any mechanical issues that I should be aware of on a 2006 KLX250S with 6600 miles on it?
My son and I were planning to trailer our bikes to Colorado, but he says he wants to ride out there and back... 1,100 miles each way. His bike is in good shape, uses no oil, but I wonder what kind of longevity those little engines generally have. I know he revs it pretty good to keep up with my KTM on the highway running 75 mph. Should I tell him we are going to trailer? Or go with the adventure ride. Probably will take highway from Arkansas, across Oklahoma to New Mexico, then mix in forest and gravel roads through New Mexico and Colorado.
Ouch! Well, people are really different, but man I'd rather take a beating with a hot motorcycle chain than ride a KLX250 across that stretch of country. I think the bike can handle it, frankly, but I'd have different gearing for the long stretch there and back. Then you'd need to change it back for off roading in CO for sure. Man, I'd talk him out of that if you can. The bike will probably survive fine if geared within reason for the highway, but it will still be wrung out quite hard if you're going to do 75mph. It's just not the bike for that kind of travel...at least not anything close to really enjoyable. Where will your travel gear be for a trip like this? There's one thing in and of itself when it comes to doing a trip like that...gear, clothes, etc. It's hard to beat when you have your vehicle loaded with enough stuff to make the trip more enjoyable. Plus, you know you'll burn a lot good tire rubber on that much highway mileage for no good reason other than to say you did it. I go to CO every year also, but I trailer there in my van. I camp out of the van and can be totally self-sufficient for days at a time. That's harder to do off the bike...especially a small one. You may find your options much greater if you haul your stuff up there with the trailer deal. But hey...it's y'alls trip. Have fun which ever way you go.
Has he done many highway miles with it? Day after day? 1,100 is quite a haul, he might be wishing you'd trailered part way there. I say save the little pony's legs for the fun stuff. You've got the trailer set-up: use it.
Just some guy's 2 cents.
By the time he gets there - the last thing he'll want to do is ride that damn thing. Save it and enjoy some good conversation in the car.
Ok... Let me re state the question. How many miles are the KLX250 engines good for before things start breaking inside the engine? Any high mileage guys out there.
Here's a response from another thread currently on page 2 in the link provided. I also am aware of guy on the Kawasaki KLX forum who has at least 30,000 miles on his KLX. The KLX engine is overbuilt. It's one reason it's a bit on heavy side for a semi-serious DS bike for dirt use. Heck, the cooling system is so effective that the fan hardly ever comes on even in some pretty gnarly conditions and abuse. There's not much to fear with this motor. I think the weakest link in the engine is the cam chain tensioner. Most folks don't have trouble with it, but for those who get the telltale rattle when the tensioner starts falling behind, there's a $30 manual tensioner from Mark Kreiger to take care of that issue.
I noticed an intermittent rattle when running it out after jetting. I will replace the tensioner.
When you say you noticed a rattle "after" rejetting, just make sure your rattle isn't detonation which could lead to some serious problems.
it was not that type of noise, different frequency. My R1100S pings like crazy if I cheap out on fuel. Sounded more like valve clatter. and I am still not done with jetting, ordered the KDX snorkle, and the N1TC needle, as it is a bit rich. they should be here next week. Was going to try putting stock pilot back in, and a 125 main. Now I have a DJ 146 main, 38 pilot, no air box lid, and 1mm shim. Too loud without the lid. Thanks for the warning though. I haven't ridden it much before the jetting, will ask my son if that is a new sound.
Am I reading you correctly that you have a 146 Dynojet main in there? I say this only from an informational perspective and in hopes of getting a clear picture of your jetting. I could be wrong, but I can't see any way that a 146 Dynojet main could even work in our KLX in a reasonable manner. That is a huge jet. It's equivalent to a 160 Keihin main. On my '06 KLX I have a 300 cylinder, full Muzzy exhaust, and all airbox mods with lid open. I run a 128 DJ main jet with a DJ needle. I'm not sure the KLX would even "clear out" at midrange or WOT with a jet that big. Are you sure about that 146 designation on your main?
I have boxes of jets ( I own a shop) and the baggy said DJ146... I didn't get out the glasses and read the jet... maybe mispackaged.
Yes air box cover off, dj146, 38 pilot, 1mm shim on stock needle. FMF q4 pipe... screams right up to redline in every gear, except 6th much stronger than stock. But has a slight hesitation around 5-7 grand, and has way too much intake noise.
found that combo from an old post here at ADV. Doubt I can find it again... searched so many threads on different forums.
But it is a little rich.
ws, what kind of fuel mileage have you been getting as a general rule?