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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by bmwhd, Dec 2, 2005.
Hey, any of you guys with 351 kits that still have your stock jug... PLEASE consider sending them to Bill Blue and getting your core charge back. I was on the phone with him today and he's turning down work from people who won't send in their cylinder, because he's out of cores.
I just got myself a core from another bike, and am shipping it off tomorrow. I will also be sending him my original jug as a credit towards the head porting work I'm going to have done too. So with luck, I'll be installing the 351 kit on the 24th or 25th of this month, and shipping off my other parts to him soonafter for the headwork, since I don't have a spare head to send in with the spare jug.
So, again, if you still have your stock one, or access to one, please consider sending it in.
in fact, I have lowering links I'd be willing to part with as well.
I found it too high with the stock seat and my inseam is about the same, 175lbs and 5'6". Purchased the 2" Kouba Link and lowered the front as much as possible. Easily flat footed but found the chain rubbing the chain upper roller unless having excessive pre-load. Re-installed the originals and cut down the seat, worked pretty well and height was Ok (Balls of the Feet). Recently sprung for the Seat Concepts low seat and am pleased with the results. I think being a NOOB he will appreciate being able to get at least this low, perhaps also the 1" Kouba Link???
PS: Didn't see a big difference in handling either way on the street but think the seat is a better idea (Mod or New)
Also mine is a 2011, perhaps slightly lower stock than the 2006?
How big, how much?
I didn't really just post that on ADV did I?
Okay, I've tried several different phrases, but can't find the thread that has all the "free mods" instructions. just several mentions of them. Anybody got the link? Thanks
Agreed- I'm somewhere between 31-32" and I just lean it onto one foot at a dead stop. I'd rather be a bit higher for clearance on the trail than lower to flat-foot both feet. If I'm putting my feet down at all on the trail, I'm doing something wrong.
I'm still totally stock carb. That bog only happens for me when I first take off, once I've been up to 6/7K RPMs, it doesn't happen for the rest of the day.
Cold starting- for some reason, it was REALLY bad to start in the 40s/50s when I first got mine brand new last spring, but this year I did not have nearly as much trouble with the choke and starting in the same weather. Could be Stabil sitting in the tank, not sure.
Overall, that engine is very predictable once warmed up and runs great. I'd hesitate to fiddle with jetting just to overcome the minor starting issues in the cold.
This bike needs to be rejetted and piped. Unless u like mellow. I road mine stock and liked it. Opened up the intake and exhaust and jetted and love it.
Sent from the back woods of vt via patchy Internet
Live free and ride hard
Agreed, I have the KLX250sf model, and recently did the rejet/FMF Q4/remove snorkel.
Every KLX250 owner really owes it to them self to do this to the bike. It will be the best $400 you ever spent on a bike in terms of reward.
As much as I love the added power, the ability to crank the SOB without almost killing the battery is worth the price paid by itself.
On subject of seat height .... On my bike, when I get on when it's on the kickstand, it compresses to the point it will throw you to other side if you don't put kickstand up and I can touch with both feet. Does this seem average for this bike? I asked previous owner if he lowered and he said no. Going by seat height specs I should not be able to touch ground on this bike and no I'm not 400 pounds. Jetting questions.... Bike had 2 bros pipe and was jetted snorkel removed...I just put on fmf pipe since other one was too loud, I think my jetting is off a little bit since I don't know what is in there or what belongs in there, can someone tell me what jet size would be appropriate with this exhaust and no snorkel so when I take the carb off to see what jets are in it, I will know if they are close or not. I think I'm a little rich and I'm at 2000 feet. I'm only getting 80-90 miles before hitting reserve.
the dyno jet website has some info on mods and jetting. i dont remember what main jet they recommend for your set up. something close to 130. changes to carb depend on what rpm range you're rich in too. idle, mid or wot. you should use the look of your spark plug to determine if you are rich or lean. mpg has too many variables.
Mine has 1.5" lowering links, but the sag was adjusted some to stiffen the rear back up, so the net lowering was only about 1". I'm 145 lbs, my kickstand has not been modified, and I can sit on the bike with the kickstand down with no danger of toppling the bike. My guess is that it is lowered, and the rear sag is way too soft.
Has any one tried this Free Mod yet ???
I purchased this lowering links he is a local guy in Michigan they go from 0 - 4" lower then stock http://www.ebay.com/itm/181083781684?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
i also purchased a seat concepts seat cover that makes the seat wider and shorter for longer rides I LOVE IT
'09 with a jet kit. For around $60 more is the MegaBomb worth it?
i went with the mega bomb
I've got one of Soupy's lowering links on y Tiger 800XC and the adjustable kickstand. Only problem with the kick stand, it's got a miniscule foot that I had to have a plate welded on-should had a bigger footprint from the factory!!!
For a long time I've been on a quest to find the best motorcycle lighting out there. Most of the popular off road lighting out there I wont name is complete junk - powerful LEDs or HID's with absolutely no thought going into the reflector/projector/beam shape and intensity.
I recently tried out some lights that were excellent in regards to beam shape, intensity etc BUT they were complete junk as far as quality goes. The cut off shield failed the first day and then only worked intermitantly after that. The ballast failed pretty quickly as well probably from the vibrations.
However I mention the light as the beam was so good it'd be worth it for someone to find a way to make it work!
Here's the finished light mounted in my OEM headlight - none too pretty! :)
The projector is quite a bit longer than the stock light so I had to move everything out about an inch. (For those who don't recognize my dash I have the 2008 KLX250 which wasn't sold in the US; it has the same dash as the KLX450.)
This probably wasn't very smart of me but I had the 50watt ballast mounted just under the acerbis 3.7 gallon tank. That was as far away as it could be with the cable that came with the kit.
I did a horrible job trying to take pictures of the beam; I know to do a one to one comparison you need to know how to manually use the camera and lock in the settings. In these comparison pictures I'm comparing the stock KTM 690R light to the morimoto. The stock 690R is horrible - worse than the KLX250. (The 690E is pretty darn good actually.) In both these pictures the camera makes both pictures much darker than they were in reality - the KTM's light is bad but the picture makes it look non existant.
Finally in the middle is a flashlight I commonly carry called the Thrunite scorpion. It's been tested in a Integrating Sphere to put out 700 "Out the front" lumens. It has an XML U2 in it driven at 2.5 amps. As you can see it blows away the KTM light but doesn't touch the HID.
Turn the Stock KTM light on before taking the pic. We can't see anything!
Way to go on the ingenuity