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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by bmwhd, Dec 2, 2005.
That was just mean...but funny...and true...
He asked for thoughts.
I didn't intend any mean.
Do you have any pictures of the new head pipe and muffler? I have big gun EVO x exhaust on my 94 klr 250 and its loud, now I'm looking for something a bit quieter for my 06 klx250. Any video clips of it running?
Yeah, that's my one concern. The bike is more street than dirt. Love my XR250R but isn't great on the street and no magic button.
I don't know...I think you'll find there's a good deal of off road potential in the KLX. The suspension can be tweaked to a high level of performance, and the engine has a lot of options that really liven it up without much effect on durability and reliability. I had 4 XR250's from '84 until '90. I like my 300 jugged '06 KLX better than any of them. Race Tech revalving in the fork and shock, aftermarket pipe, 36mm pumper carb, and all airbox mods...damn near a real dirt bike with very good road manners...and only marginally heavier. It'll never be a KTM or such, but it's a darn good DS bike.
With the 351 and pumper carb on, for about 8 months now, the engine starts "coughing out" at around 8k rpm. Engine is smooth and responsive from down low up to 8k, and in the beginning with the big bore I was happy with that. But I'm reading that others with the 351 have the same RPM range as before... I did a few experiments and if I roll on the throttle slowly and gradually the bike eventually gets up to 10k-10,500 ... But if I accelerate hard and pin it, like I think most would do, it starts coughing .. Or skipping .. Not sure how else to describe at 8k ... Usually I back off and just switch gears at that point, the 351 gives you lots of leeway with gear selection because of available power .. But a couple times I kept the throttle pinned past 8k and the first couple "skips/coughs" and at 9k it started bucking pretty hard, it was very hard to control with loss of power and then it surging full on again-and off/on again at speed- Second run with same result was enough to convince me it wasn't going to resolve itself.
What the heck is going on? I've had three tune ups with valve checks over life of bike (800 miles, 4,800, and just a few months ago at 8,800) Always been told everything looked okay, valve clearances within range and reset to orig specs. It starts easy, runs well down low, but why is the high end not available, and what's causing that scary reaction at 8-9k under hard throttle - but not under slow acceleration? Beyond oil changes and a few basic tasks, I'm out of my pay grade and could use some advice...
Just hearing your symptoms, it sounds like a jetting or accelerator pump timing issue. Do you have a 34 or 36 pumper?
See post 428 on that other forum
Could you share all your jetting numbers?...main jet, needle #, needle jet #, needle clip position, pilot jet, pilot air jet, pump opening/closing position...everything.
Shoot - if course I don't know it all. I remember my friend/mechanic saying that he didn't mess with the carb settings (he did play with it a little but said it seemed to work best the way the Bill Blue had sent it out).
I will make some calls and see what I can find.
It's a 2007 w/351, 36 pumper, KDX200 snorkel, K&N filter, and Two Bros exhaust. I' guessing its probably not possible to ask for standard sea level settings with that set up?
I'll post again once I have all the jetting info - thanks TNC.
If it's Bill Blue's modded 33mm pumper bored to 34mm, it's different from my 36mm Mikuni pumper. I was hoping to get you closer to proper jetting for the KLX, but I'm not really as familiar with BB's carb settings. There are quite a few here that have that carb, however, and perhaps they could steer you closer.
Pull the main and try one step leaner, failing that and if it gets worse, one richer. Sounds fat to me on the main but better to test and tune. The pump should be finished at that point when you roll the throttle slowly to get past the blubber.
Another thing to try, roll it to point and pull the choke on. I'd bet it gets worse.
What do you guys use for case savers to keep the gear shifter from punchering the case?
I was wondering about that. Being that he could slowly accelerate up to WOT without much issue but have noticeable stumbling when whacking the throttle open, it sounds like his pump may not be working or at least not keeping up...pump timing or even not pumping at all. I agree that the pump should be through at 3/4 throttle or so.
its really quiet & huge performance gain
Wondering that myself. think I'm gonna bend the shifter out just a tad and jb weld a piece of 1/4" aluminum on there, unless anybody has a reason not to, or has a better idea
I extended my shifter 3/4" and while I had the welder out, I welded a flat piece of steel to the back. I had a lowside crash and bent the shifter and it hit the case but didn't damage it, so it worked as planned.
You start with a box of Cheezits. Take the Cheezit box and cut away anything that doesn't look like a case saver.
It's held on with some 3M high heat two sided tape . I will have to pull it off when I do a valve check.