Lower front mount advice

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by john82q, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. john82q

    john82q Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    24
    Location:
    Brisvegas
    I am a long time lurker and only post on here occasionally, I do value the opinons of this forum.

    So a little back ground story
    My outfit is a 84 suzuki GS1100G with a DJP side car. Loaded with passenger and gear about car wieghs about 150Kg I like to ride as hard as i can in the twistys, She gets a work out.
    The outfits been together for about 20 years that I know of I have had it for 5 and ive done about 60K on it

    So I figure it was only a matter of time before something broke.

    [​IMG]

    this welded stack of washers not my work and while ugly never gave any trouble, seems the tube crack fatigued n broke
    [​IMG]
    And going by the rust cracked for a while...

    I remade the joint (a little long I will trim it to adjust toe in.
    [​IMG]

    it attaches to a sorry looking OEM clamp. (loose for now on pupose)
    [​IMG]


    Now my QUESTION:

    I am thinking of ditching the clamp and making a mounting plate which would go under the engine mount bolts.

    proposed mock up

    [​IMG]


    The right bend would wind up about on a 45 degree angle, the engine bolts are 7mm. plate would be a about that thick and maybe have a welded on rib.

    Will this be strong enough?
    have I sacrificed too much fore and aft strength? (the bent bars used to oppose each other)

    Just wrong and the world will end?


    Cheers John
    #1
  2. jaydmc

    jaydmc Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,085
    Do the bolts where you are attaching this go through to the other side of the tube making it a nut and bolt set up? If it does one easy way to make it much stronger would be to use longer bolts and put plates on both sides of the tube.
    The type of frame clamps you have I have seen them cause failures in the frame of the bike right next to the clamp. I would at least loosen them so that you can move them a bit and inspect for any frame issues.
    Where the weld broke, if a weld bead had been laid down 90 degree's from the main weld to break up the line of stress it may not have failed.
    Hard to really see in the pictures just what you are trying to do. All 4 mounts should be thought of as a unit not 4 individual mounts. More part of a mounting system.
    Jay G
    DMC sidecars
    www.dmcsidecars.com
    866-638-1793
    #2
  3. cleatusj

    cleatusj Dirt floor engineer

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,253
    Location:
    Granbury, TX
    John. if it would be possible, I would atleast run a strap behind head pipes to matching plate attached to the other motor mount also.
    #3
  4. Wolfgang55

    Wolfgang55 Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,531
    Location:
    Next to Rio Bravo
    Rust in your SC's future ?

    One way how it may have started is when a weld is not finished.
    It may appear as only a tiny pin hole & the paint or powder coating didn't seal the hole.
    This will permit water inside.
    Sometimes an entire metal tube will fill w/ water & then sit there & rust away over time.
    This is why welding should not be an ''on the job training program'' on anyones sidecar.

    Welding is more than just holding two or more more metal parts in place.
    It should be considered a seal.
    #4