Simple. - Use shapes where one could compress the fabric externally and evenly without bridges. Thus round/oval/hexagon: yes. Square/rectangular: only if required. I-beam/U-profile: no. - Hand-laminate the core, absorp quite a bit of excess resin by patting the laminate with cotton cloth. - Add PE foil with holes or peel ply and absorber. - Compress absorber. Maybe that shrink tape stuff is the ticket (never used it before), otherwise wrapping packing tape very tightly around the structure will do the job too. The tricky part is to wrap tightly and not disturb the laminate under the absorber. - Add heat. The epoxy will thin out tremendously and flow into the absorber a lot easier. Any composite professional is probably shaking his head right now, but these 'alternate methods' work fine in a 'once or twice a year we do a one-off composite part in the shed'-setting. BTW: IMHO a little resin-rich does not immediately mean very weak parts. Just a little weaker and a little heavier than optimal. Of course, one try to avoid that condition, but if there is an area which is not as good as the rest, well, don't bother. The test piece proved this; this piece was extremely resin-rich, the resin was made in two small batches (small batch = mixing ratio inaccuracies) and made out of mainly leftover pieces. It really takes effort to do worse than that. Still, the test piece performed well.