Manual Labor

Discussion in 'Alaska' started by Gusgus, May 6, 2006.

  1. Gusgus

    Gusgus Banned

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    The Adventure may once again be ridden. How soon? It is all up to Fed-Ex now.

    You see, I have accidentally screwed up my Adventure. Badly enough I thought I wouldn't be able to ride it this summer.

    There was an hour or so today where I believed I could not fix the current situation. I thought it might take a year or two, to buy the transmission and components to get it back on the road.

    How? By following the BMW repair manual. Yes you heard that right , following the repair/shop manual.

    The pivot pins which hold the swingarm and final drive require heat, how much seems to be "the missing link" of information. The BMW manual specifically directs 212 deg F to remove them. Wrong! WRONG????? I knew the heat was at 220 degs for 45 min. before I attempted a removal.

    The mechanic at TMS (John) told me to use a torch.. A TORCH? I asked.... He said the manual is wrong. I knew something was wrong. But the manual? How can that be?

    I have 3 manuals, 2 published by BMW, all agree, 212 deg F. Waa? Friggin WAAA???

    So anyone deciding to remove the pivot pins from the swingarm or final drive. Maybe a clear understanding of the "real" method should be found first.

    It is far to late for me.:cry
    #1
  2. kodiakfrank

    kodiakfrank Gloria's Cheerleader

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    Sorry to here of your troubles Gusgus, but I'm happy to here you'll be on the road soon enough. Too bad BMW won't foot the bill...we all know how that goes.

    BTW, I once distroyed an H60's rotating swash plate doing a bearing removal because the maintenance manual listed the wrong part number for the bearing puller. All said and done, about $150,000 in parts and labor:eek1 . Luckily Uncle Sam picked up the tab and the manuals for the fleet were corrected.
    #2
  3. KL5A

    KL5A Bugs are the new black

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    Pssshhhhh!
    I killed $100,000 worth of digital publishing equipment using nothing more than electronic representations of 0's and 1's-yep I'm dangerous with a laptop!

    Seriously Gus-that sucks. Did you bugger the threads? I have read that you can pretty much tear the threads, and the metal around the threads, right out of the case. Seems odd to me that BMW would engineer a machine that way, especially one intended for use outside of the dotted lines.
    #3
  4. Gusgus

    Gusgus Banned

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    Well,,, yes!

    I did bugger the threads.

    But not all at once, it actually took some time for me to completely "bugger" the threads. And not just one set of threads.....:eek1

    It all started with the final drive removal. An oil leak in the pinion bearing area facilitated the removal. Absolutely ruined the swingarm. The threads from the titanium pivot pin were galled right off of the pin and mashed into the thread boss of the swingarm. I found another swingarm.


    Then needed to remove the swingarm and ruined the L/H threads on the Transmission case exactly the same way. Silly me, I followed the manual.:tb

    Now it should be noted here, BMW nor anyone has the Tap for a 24mm X 1.25mm thread. How can that be? A thread which is not common, or produced? Why would BMW do this?
    #4
  5. TRACTOR RIDER

    TRACTOR RIDER No Rules Gruver

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    Boy, Gus that sucks. Hope everthing works out.

    TR
    #5
  6. KL5A

    KL5A Bugs are the new black

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    After hearing about this, I'm thinking that if I have a oilhead leaking oil.....


    fuggit. It can just damn well leak it! :cry
    #6
  7. TRACTOR RIDER

    TRACTOR RIDER No Rules Gruver

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    It was a mans love for his machine.
    #7
  8. friar mike

    friar mike IronButtGruver

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    Here I come to save:huh uh the well may Iam bit late sorry Gusgus:cry
    [​IMG]
    #8
  9. Gusgus

    Gusgus Banned

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    First off it is a man's love for his machine,and an aircraft mechanics inability to avoid following the books as well as an accused anal tendency. The accused anal tendency has gotten me into more trouble with most of my home projects.
    I had a carpenter tell me once after working on my home, "you should be held to a 5 day waiting period for glue". My home is all glued together, yes and screwed.

    In all honesty the oil leak (which I had) has been the only symptom of a soon to fail final drive. I knew it was doing fine, but any increase in the leak would render the final drive no friggin good, very fast.

    BMW does have some responsibility in this, but I really just want to ride. Law suit issues are far more work than their worth. Kinda like dating twin sisters. Someone is going to win and I doubt it would ever be me.
    #9
  10. TRACTOR RIDER

    TRACTOR RIDER No Rules Gruver

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    I understand as a mechanic I've been fucked by books too.:baldy
    We can fix it. Remember it's only time and money.

    TR:huh
    #10
  11. Gusgus

    Gusgus Banned

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    Like an old grizzled mechanic once told me..

    "Gus my friend (I made that part up, he really didn't like me that much)
    If you got's (not that well schooled) a one inch piece left, we can rebuild it"

    He died shortly after. :dutch He only drank alone,,,,,or,,,,,with somebody!

    Drunk, froze to death:eek1

    The lesson here is drink in warm places!:clap :freaky
    #11
  12. Wheeldog

    Wheeldog Long timer

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    Thats pretty simple......they want you to buy new parts from them everytime something goes wrong.:evil Look at all the money they would loose if you could get all your spare parts up a NAPA.:rofl


    It's a bummer when they do stuff like that.:cry Honda had some odd-ball sized chain on the wifes ACE that was almost impossible to get. Hope everything works out well for you.:clap
    #12
  13. JimmieA

    JimmieA Long timer

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    I just had an adventure with this part. I guess they use green locktite on this part. I had my bike in for an out of province inspection (after it was checked out by a BMW dealer). There was excessive play in the rear wheel (hands on top and bottom of tire) and the inspector was going to fail the bike. The mechanic had my copy of the shop manual but it wasn't much help. I showed him the copy of our Hall of Wisdom site and that was a big help. I also called the dealer that was supposted to have done the inspection that I paid for. Long story short the mechanic used a electricians heat gun, like a hot hair dryer, and got the sucker out, took about 5 minites on high setting. It is only 5 ft/lbs torque but it is welded in with this green locktite. I wasn't too happy at the time but glad how it worked out. We used red locktite after wards. I would have tried to power this out and done some collateral damage likely.
    #13
  14. Gusgus

    Gusgus Banned

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    I don't understand why you would need to remove the pivot pin for an inspection.
    Is Canada that anal? Are they that closely scrutinizing your motorbike,that you must meet a specific mechanical criteria? I just don't understand.

    Yes the locktite is red or green or blue, but it is always supposed to be 2701, or 271. I have found color doesn't mean anything anymore. I actually bought all 3 colors, in 2701.

    I am going to go right back together with locktite 271. Why?
    Because I would rather replace the transmission case and swingarm than have one of those pivot pins fall out at 120mph.:eek1
    #14
  15. TRACTOR RIDER

    TRACTOR RIDER No Rules Gruver

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    Damn Gus, you need to slow down and smell the roses (I mean outhouses)
    :rofl :ksteve :poser Sorry, Sometimes I just crack myself up.

    TR:huh
    #15
  16. Gusgus

    Gusgus Banned

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    Yes it is true, living in Big Lake has proven to be an outhouse control center of Alaska and as far as odor? It is the usual fare.
    120mph is usually leaving, heading back is usually 55.......:lol3
    #16
  17. TRACTOR RIDER

    TRACTOR RIDER No Rules Gruver

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    Gus, Hows the bike coming? :1drink

    TR:huh
    #17
  18. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    Two things...

    One, on the 1100 there are no L/H threads on the swingarm pivots. They are all R/H, and I'll bet the 1150 is the same. ( I wasn't sure if you meant left side of the bike or left hand thread)

    Two- 24x1.5mm taps are easy to find. Here is a 24x1mm which is a bit more unusual. The parts fiche says you need 1.25mm but it could be wrong. Did you measure the part yourself? The catalog I linked to also says they can get non-catalog parts, specifically including special- tolerance taps.

    If no-one can get a tap, a machinist can probably make one for you. If TI makes a good tool material you could use a spare pin as a blank- then all you need is a grinder. It needs to work well, but it only has to work twice. Although at this point it might be easier and cheaper to just buy a new transmission.

    -Good luck
    #18
  19. Gusgus

    Gusgus Banned

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    I have all the doo's and dad's, as well as the bit's and bobble's together here at Rancho Gusgus.
    The Ohlin returned to the rancho today, as well.
    So I am getting close. Yet the final drive still needs a to be cracked open and the new bearings/seals installed. I am a bit shy about that (realizing my inability to deviate from the printed instructions).

    But I had hoped to get to it this evening, yet my auto has decided to cut in line.
    So some auto indulgence was required tonight. :norton

    Maybe if the Volcano Gods are kind to me I will be able to race back to the Rancho and get busy tomorrow.
    Today auto/motorbike/honey maintenance was postponed due to the Russian Volcano on the Kamchatka peninsula, spewing flight diverting crap into my day. It had better calm the F$%K down by tomorrow.

    Luke, Thanks for the advise, I am actually doing fine, had some hair graying times, but should be able to press on tomorrow.
    #19
  20. TRACTOR RIDER

    TRACTOR RIDER No Rules Gruver

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    Come on Gus, Get out of the outhouse and tell us what is going on with the bike. Did you get it fixed. The suspense is killing me.:huh :huh :huh

    TR:huh :huh
    #20