Michnus & Elsebie Piki-Piki Around the World!!

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by michnus, Jun 11, 2011.

  1. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer

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    +1 on the most fuel efficient six-fidy on the planet:deal

    I add the stupid F650 theromostat to the list I melted down in Southern Venezuela, at least the waterpump gears and shaft are fairly easy field fix.

    And some people go around saying there are no more of these big fuel-less routes in the world, hog wash, they haven't been to the dark heart of Africa:clap:clap:clap First place I want to get to after South America, way more wild than anything left on the planet besides the poles that are kinda off limits:lol3

    Looking forward to these next bits. Thanks for sharing what most don't do! 5 stars to me:deal
  2. johnnybgood8

    johnnybgood8 Been here awhile

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    Just started to read and its awesome but this BMW:puke1 . So many problems... japanese rules:deal
  3. Don T

    Don T Bike Addict

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    Great RR - I'm looking forward to see the rest of it.
  4. BSK

    BSK Ohhh mist! Die Bullen!!!!

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    thanks for sharing
  5. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    We are currently in Europe. Yes, I know I am bit late on update but will soon. :)

    There is just something special about travelling Africa and South America and such countries. Fuel is all about planning and it is not on every corner and town. Food is not in MassMart or Lidl's every 20km.
    Open spaces and salt of the earth people. I really miss travelling there. Do 500km a day and see no people. Europe is nice but for kick-ass fun Africa and South America must rate as the best imho.
    Thanks for following will update as soon as we are back home;)
  6. DakarGuy

    DakarGuy Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the reply Michnus. I only got to see it now.

    What did you do to the handlebars?

    I doubt I will ever have the opportunity to give my Dakar the pounding you have given yours. Firstly because I'm not as mechanical as you obviously are. Secondly because I don't think I will ever traverse Africa or South America on a motorbike.

    I look forward to your next update.

    Lekker bly.
  7. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    Hello Dakarguy

    Apologies for the late reply. The one Dakar I did a normal ProTaper conversion and on the other a Magura conversion. The Magura is a rubbish way as the SWMotech clamps does not work that well. The Protaper one works well.

    You are in Geneva?
  8. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    [​IMG]
    Forgotten one-donkey town in the middle of nowhere. Stopped for some bread and canned food, this would be last big town we would see for a while.

    We decided when back in Kenya from Uganda to look for some overlanders to team up with when back at JJ’s. One couple with two friendly blond haired girls were planning to go that way but did not had space for our stuff in their car, and they in the end also did not do the route as the risk of car trouble and two kids were too great.

    [​IMG]
    No name, just a few shacks and a dust road going through it. The place looked like a typical western spot.

    We had a few evenings with people at JJ's discussing whether we must go alone or not. We could argue all the way that a person must rather do such trips closer to home than in the middle of nowhere. But this is why we ride bike after all is it not? I had trepidations about this and did not want to end out trip with one of us getting hurt. But I owe it to her, and she owe it to herself.

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    Kenya sure is a beautiful country

    Eventually we decided to buy some extra fuel cans and water cans and go at it on our own. There’s sure to be places for us to get water and petrol. We do not need to convince a local to give us 70L or 100L of fuel as with 4×4’s and so drain their only source. They would sure be able to spare us 10L or 20L.

    [​IMG]
    Wildlife is on the iffy side.
  9. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer

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    Keep it coming man, I was missing this one:clap:clap:clap:lurk
  10. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    There were two or three routes to Loiyangalani, unfortunate for us we had to take the one from Isiolo to Malaret to fill our bikes, extra fuel cans and get water. This was the last town we were able to get fuel and water. The people do not see bikers often and we were surrounded by eager eyes from the locals. We set out late afternoon on very heavily laden bikes on route to Baragoi and South Horr.

    The bikes had food for a few days, 15liters extra fuel each and 10 liters of water each.

    [​IMG]

    Not 5km out of town and the road turned to slow, 4×4, technical rock climbing all the way up the escarpment. We only managed 25km for the rest of the afternoon and were looking for a camp spot when we got to this campsite.

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    With the heavy bikes the going was slow. We had to go slow and be as easy on the bikes as possible.

    Amazing as we stop for a rest we see this small cottage just off the road on the escarpment. On enquiry it was less to rent it for the night than we normally paid for camping! The friendly staff helped us unpack, got us some beers, and due to the altitude and the cold at night they made us a Cedar wood fire in the cottage. It is the first time we smelled Cedar wood in a fireplace and it gave off a very nice pleasant sweet smell.

    [​IMG]

    Freaky, that in the middle of nowhere this place pops up and it's as cheap as dirt. The owner is a Belgium wanting to make some business here. I think he is not going to be busy this road has not been used for quite some time.

    [​IMG]

    We knew the next days riding would be hard on us and the bikes, it was nice to have a bit off unexpected luxury before the work start.
    Kookz likes this.
  11. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    [​IMG]
    Our route in yellow from Isiolo, to South Horr, Loiyangalani and Koobi Fora through Siboloi national park
    click to expand
    We really regret taking more pictures, but in the heat and slow going technical riding to stop for pictures were just too much work. The road to Baragoi and South Horr snakes between and up mountain ranges and some of the most beautiful surrounding imaginable. The going was slow and although it was partly overcast it was hell hot. The entire road up to South Horr was badly run out and corrugated, little did we know the 1st and second gear 20km/h riding was what Murphy had planned for us for much of this route to Ethiopia.

    [​IMG]
    The slow going had some benefits, we were able to enjoy the breath taking surroundings

    We arrived at the small village of Barangoi in a cloud of dust. We saw they had a fuel pump and on asking were told they have some but for the majority of time the tanks are always empty. I can understand it as the roads to the village are so bad that tankers cannot deliver fuel and they get delivered by Land Cruisers and other old 4×4’s.

    [​IMG]
    The road meander through the mountains and into river beds.

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    Reminiscent of the Northern Province bushveld

    We calculated that we would be able to finish the route with the fuel we had on board. Not taking into account that the bikes fuel consumption can drop to 16km per liter when doing slow technical riding and we knew it was not going to get easier up North.

    [​IMG]
    Farking hot, shade was a welcoming sight.

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    Some God forsaken little village turned ghost village.

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    Few kilometers before South Horr and taking another rest from the heat and slow riding. The best camping spots around, it got difficult to start again after relaxing under lush green trees.
  12. tmotten

    tmotten Lefthand ride Dutchy

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    Nice one. Sounds like an amazing experience
  13. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    Man, I just want to go back when I see these pictures again.
  14. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    South Horr is a small village between nowhere and hell. Nothing happens there every 30min and it last for the entire week. That is the nothingness, I am talking about. The people on the other hand are super nice and we got chatting with locals within minutes. It's the usual stuff, where from, where too, how old, how many kids, that sort of thing. There is one bar guest house with a groovy African theme and the youngster running the place had some drinks in our hands with in seconds.

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    What in life is better than this? fuck all!! *:ricky:

    [​IMG]
    The owner of the only and best bar cum guest house in South Horr.

    [​IMG]
    Just outside South Horr the road turned into powder dust and sand.

    The rest of the route to Loiyangalani was a relatively easy going with sand tracks and at some places we could even use 3rd and 4 for a few hundred meters. For the first time the heat got really unbearable, it must have been well into the 40’s or 50’s. It is nice to ride without a jacket, but it’s actually better with one on as it keeps the warm hot air out. Just about 50km before Loiyangalani we rode into the lava fields.

    [​IMG]
    What is that movie? I see dead people or something the small boy said? Well, I see boobs everywhere *:lol8:

    [​IMG]
    If the sweltering dry heat wasn't bad enough the dust choked us up.

    [​IMG]
    Between the bike and myself I was heavier on water than what the bike was on petrol.

    While riding I thought to myself I am sure this is the devil‘s play ground, when camels succumb to the terrain it’s really not a good environment for people. How the tribes survive here is an absolute mystery. Their homes resemble a squatter camp more than anything else, and there’s no water here, except lake water and that is salty.
    Not that there are a lot of them around.

    [​IMG]
    Turkana is a very inhospitable place, even camels find it hard.

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    Millions of years old. Lava rocks all over the place.

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    This is the road, there is no line between the road and the edge.

    Like a fast bitch slap from the irritated guy next to you in a smelly dodgy bar, we were instantly bitch slapped wide awake and had to concentrate like hell riding the lava pebbles and rocks while the sun was busy boiling our brains.

    It was quite a difference riding this pebble size razor sharp rocks than sand or any other thing we have been riding before. It’s like riding on fist-size marbles in a hollowed out track and still trying to avoid the sharp edged rocks. Then there’s the size,some are smaller and more of them, or bigger sizes and they throw your front wheel all over the place. Riding out of the track is impossible and dangerous. *Slow going is a no-no, you have to keep the speed to at least 30km/h or even higher. That increases the risk of falling and this is NOT the place to drop a bike.

    [​IMG]
    At last the view of Lake Turkana. It was a welcoming site to some water again. It is called the turquoise lake for being a turquoise colour. I am just to shit at taking pictures that show the true colours so this is as turquoise as it get.
    click to open bigger


    [​IMG]
    There is either water or rocks, no vegetation around. How people live in such harsh conditions are beyond comprehension.

    It is nearly impossible to try and understand how people can live in such extreme environment. Not even to mention what they know about the Western world. Sometimes I think they are better off not knowing the shit we sit with in the western world.
    Kookz likes this.
  15. yamalama

    yamalama wet coaster

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    wow.
    this is a fantastic rr.
    thank you.
  16. KMC1

    KMC1 There is no spoon.

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    The terrain is fucking amazing.... It must be so cool to see in person. You have one hell of a wife there man! My girl wouldn't view that shit anywhere but from google earth! :rofl
    Just amazing where you guys ride!
  17. joenuclear

    joenuclear Planning.....

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    Thanks for the update.
  18. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    that is a really funny comment! thanks for a good laugh. :lol3
  19. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

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    Photo taking became almost impossible, when the going is good you need make up time and when the terrain is bad you work hard to get out of it. At one stage I stopped for a photo, Elsebie stopped behind me and with the weight of the bike on the loose stones, loosing her balance just for a moment, it was quite a balancing act, Elsebie dropped the bike. I did my best to explain to her in my calmest voice that at this place you do not drop a bike, whatever you do, do not drop a bike.

    [​IMG]
    113F" the rocks radiate heat through the night.

    Rocks always and I mean always, win the fight with a bike’s engine casing or sump or whatever lever you need to use when negotiating rocks. I knew she already had that worked out for herself when we first rode into the lava field, and to try and recover a bike from here will be no easy feat, the terrain was really tricky but also good fun to ride.

    Heeltyd Speeltyd, this is why we love riding bike!

    No sudden braking, you just do not stop, feeling like ABS that’s ON on a dirt road, it’s even difficult to walk on the rocks.

    [​IMG]
    Sign of a good few days riding. Elsebie's hands started to wear in

    That afternoon late we reached Shady Palms Campsite in Loiyangalani. We debated long when last we felt so tired and had so much to drink without visiting the toilet. Each had about 1.5l of beer, 1.5l of water and .5l of soda before going to bed! Like at so many other camp sites the staff at the campsite was friendly and eager to please. We had some fresh fish from the lake, chips and coleslaw for dinner.

    [​IMG]

    Life is goood man!!
    :lamer:
  20. Roadinator

    Roadinator Been here awhile

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    I love Tusker!