Mid-80's KTM 2-Stroke

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by CrazyD2.0, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. CrazyD2.0

    CrazyD2.0 We Havin Fun Yet?

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    I obtained this bike from a friend who was planning to replace the rings, then gave it up and it sat for the next 15-years (min). So he stored it at another friend's place, who finally said do something with it or I will... so I inherited it. :huh

    As near as I know, from the original owner, its as the title says. I contacted a KTM place in Wasington, says the serial number I gave him didn't come back with any info. He also informed me that they only keep info on bikes from early 90's, and in special cases late 80's.

    So to jump-start my efforts, can anyone indicate whether I should be able to get parts for this thing? A manual would be helpfull too, but not all that neccesary.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. wrecked'em

    wrecked'em satisfied enzyte user

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    1980 im guessing
    #2
  3. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    It is a cool old bike.

    For the best info you might ask over on the Old's Cool forum, sub page 2 smokers. Also the Orange Crush forum might be helpful.

    Then sign up to ktmtalk.com those folks love their orange bikes.

    As far parts, they are out there for sure. Ebay will be your friend. Gaskets, pistons, rings, and seals are available I am sure...odd parts might be spotty or hard to find.

    As for getting her running and rideable, there is a pretty long list of what I would do, but most is just labor. It all needs to be disassembled and cleaned. Then all bearings and bushings need to be greased or lubed. Check or replave all seals. All pivot points need to be checked for rust, wear and cleaned and lubed including swing arm, brake parts, steering head, cables, any pivot point like levers and pegs...

    Then I would look at ALL engine seals, ESPECIALLY the crank end seals. On a 2 stroke a bad crank seal cause a lean motor and OR a very smokey motor that sucks trans oil into the engine. A lean condition WILL seize it all over againe. It is worth the effort to change the crank seals.

    The forks should be disassembled, clean out the sludge in the lowers, and new seals with fresh oil. Easy job though on older forks.

    I am quite sure, but not absolutely positive, that this bike has a steel cylinder sleeve so I would hone it well, then mic it for spec and replace at least the rigs, maybe piston, if I did a piston I would usually spend the $50 and have a fresh bore on it, especially since I find overbore pistons and rings are usually easier to find than standard bore for old bikes.

    Alot of aluminum polish and elbow grease and some time along with a few bucks and you should have fun little vintage rider there.
    #3
  4. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    I forgot, seat foam looks bad and cover, you can sometimes trim off the hard part of the foam and attach some other foam on top and trim it with a meat carving knife. Do not use any stiff glue to attach the new foam, maybe use Dow spray glue 88 I think it is called.

    Tubes and tires are not an option, they are a MUST change, possibly the rubber strip as well. Cheap life insurance there.

    Grips are cheap and easy. Clean out fuel tank, I usually use acetone to de-sludge any deposits. But first remove the petcock/tap and disasseble and clean, maybe replace the rubber seal/gasket.

    You have quite a few hundred dollars needed there and a good bit of time to invest, but I think it would be well worth it.

    First order for me though is always clear up any title issues before spending any money or much time on a project...jmho though.

    have fun and more pics as you build.
    #4
  5. TonyinKY

    TonyinKY n00b

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    Careful. It can be addictive AND dangerous.
    [​IMG]
    #5
  6. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    I started doing some image searches {too much free time on my hands} and It looks like a 1979 has a steel swing arm and a different tank, so your is newer that that. Then a 1982 went to a monoshock rear end so it is older than that.
    That narrows you down to a 1980 or 81 which I can not find enough differences with my limited knowledge of this particular bike.

    Lots of older bikes do not use a true VIN code which identifies all pertinant info about a vehicle. they use a serial number which only has limited info and may not give you everything you need to know.

    The short rear tail frame makes me think it an MX model and not a GS or enduro model...I hope that helps a bit.
    #6
  7. XRGRIFF

    XRGRIFF Adventurer

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    1981 250 Black ignition cover Sachs engine, Probably MX, lovely bike I'm sure will be a real pain getting bits but good luck, I'd like it in my garage.
    #7
  8. CrazyD2.0

    CrazyD2.0 We Havin Fun Yet?

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    Thanks for the input guys! First order of business is to deal with the engine first - like was mentioned strip it right down, clean and inspect. I'm a commercial truck mechanic so getting into the nitty-gritty isn't all that scary. Getting parts is my biggest concern. The comment about the over-bore parts is something I'll keep in mind. My biggest issue is the 2-stroke - I've always preferred the 4-stroke for quiet running, not to mention the powerband that doesn't sneak up on you, but hey, I could get used to it. Of course drum brakes don't appeal to me either but really, this thing was given to me, I shouldn't complain. The front tire has a serious split in the rubber due to age, so yeah, it'll have to be replaced, along with grips, cables, levers, etc. It all boils down to the engine: if I can't get it re-built, then I'll have to find another bike.

    So my boys and I will take her apart, and see where we stand. If there's interest, I'll post progress pics. Everyone likes a good story, right?
    #8
  9. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    Definately post a rebuild thread and pics.

    Unless there is something wrong with the cables, a good soak in solvent for a couple days, work them back and forth a bit, re soak for a bit, then a soak in tanny fluid or other 3in1 types of oil and they are usually ok. If they are kinked or cracked then replace.
    #9
  10. CrazyD2.0

    CrazyD2.0 We Havin Fun Yet?

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    Found "vintagedirtbikeparts.net", looks like there might be hope after all.... This should be interesting.
    #10
  11. CrazyD2.0

    CrazyD2.0 We Havin Fun Yet?

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    Found out definitely is a 1980 model year bike. Also, seeing as this is an "assembly required" kind of project, I posted here. If the forum masters think it should be elsewhere, then please move to appropriate spot, otherwise, onwards..
    #11
  12. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    Crazy,
    I did not mean to suggest that your build did not belong here. This is a good place to post your build as it definately fits the criteria or SAR.

    I was merely suggesting that if you ever do not get the answers you are looking for, then maybe ask in the Orange Crush or Old's cool 2 Smokers also. Obviously a lot of folks here are very sharp and will have the majority of what need in the way of answers. The other pages are just an alternate resource as well.
    #12
  13. CrazyD2.0

    CrazyD2.0 We Havin Fun Yet?

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    No prob, didn't take it as such, just wanted to be sure this thread is in its proper place. Boys and I are going to strip the engine today, find out how it looks.
    #13
  14. CrazyD2.0

    CrazyD2.0 We Havin Fun Yet?

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    So, kid #1 and I start the disassembly - cyl head already loose, so took it off. Bore looks good as does the piston, though it was missing the combustion ring.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    There was a cover on the side with a small lever - took it off and turns out it was cracked. First part to track down - I figure if can't get this, no point in looking for the ring.

    [​IMG]

    So at this point, I went through the box of parts that tagged along - shift lever, cranking lever, chain, and hey look - a brand new stator/rotor kit!

    [​IMG]

    So by this point, I happened to meet with bike's previous owner - and its funny how these details can't be obtained all in one shot - and during our chat, he reveals that the only thing the engine needs is a new piston ring that he removed to get matched up, seals for the cyl head cause he figures it was leaking, and fix the oil leak that was coming from the cover plate with the lever that broke in half. The search begins. Thankfully there's a part # on the broken plate...
    #14
  15. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    THat barrel and piston look really good and quite useable.
    I think the previous owner is smart to want to change the seals as I think it would be well worth it since it has sat so long.
    #15
  16. Rot Box

    Rot Box Been here awhile

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    Cool bikes :evil Looks like a fun project. If it was me I would try welding that piece back together. A competent welder should be able to handle the job.

    Keep us posted it will be great watching it all come together.
    #16
  17. sdm

    sdm Adventurer

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    Try this link for parts... www.pentonpartsusa.com
    They have allot of stuff for the older KTMs . Looks like a 1980 to me as I believe the 81s came out with a reed valve engine. One of the best bikes I ever had and wish I never sold it. Good luck with the resto as it is definitely worth it when complete..
    Sam
    #17
  18. CrazyD2.0

    CrazyD2.0 We Havin Fun Yet?

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    I saw that site earlier, and just went more into the engine part of it and viola! there was the cover plate I'm looking for... I'm not bad welding steel, but aluminum's out of my capability...plus I need gaskets and o-ring for it, so figure just buy the kit (if still avail with them). I emailed them, we'll see if the essential parts are to be had, then I'll know how far I'll get.

    I see this thread's been moved - cool by me. If anyone can offer info/advice, I'm :ear! For example - what exactly is that lever supposed to do, the one in the picture of the broken plate? You'll have to forgive my ignorance, I've never owned a 2-stroke. My last bike was a KLR650...
    #18
  19. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    Crazy
    I believe that plate and arm are the clutch actuator arm.
    The clutch cable should connect to that then as you pull the clutch it pushes a long rod that goes down the middle of the clutch basket and pushes a ball bearing that opens the clutch pressure plate.

    I think.
    #19
  20. Mach Z

    Mach Z Budding ADV Addict!

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    #20