Mongolia to Magadan: Any which (the hard) way

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by ChrisUK, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    743
    Location:
    God's Own County
    A quick overview map of the trip so far


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    #21
  2. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
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    743
    Location:
    God's Own County
    Ch 3. Irkutsk to Olkhon Island


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    After hitting the main paved road at Babushkin we headed around Lake Baikal to Irkutsk. Here's a traditional piece of architecture, rather than the horrid Soviet stuff that also became so popular in parts of the UK when Huddersfield's favourite son, Prime Minister Harold Wilson (I live near Hudds), was Housing Minister after WW2.



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    3 wheeled scooter with Italian plate outside the most expensive hotel in town. Unfortunately we never met the owner. ANY vehicle can ride/drive the slab (aka Trans-Siberian Highway) from Europe to Vladivostok. Especially if you've got a winch on the front ;)



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    Takin' a picture of you takin' a picture of me. At the bike workshop round the corner from where we got our new tyres and other supplies. From left to right: Andrew, Adam (who had already been Irkutsk for a week when we arrived), Jon and Pete. Denis at MOTOREZINA.RU - свежая моторезина по разумным ценам. motokolesa, мотоколеса, моторезина, резина для мотоциклов had posted the tyres from Moscow to Irkutsk for us. top bloke.



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    Pete fitting a new chain and sprockets.



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    Tyres for all seasons. Note the stickers on the left. Recognise any of them?



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    Setting off from the hotel in the rain. Spare rubber (in my case Mitas C-02 (An aggressive tyre in 17 inch. Wow!) and Pirelli MT21) to fit later on up the road. Jon and Pete.



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    Waiting to board the ferry to Olkhon Island. Sorry to be "Ginger-ist": Ginger and Afro! This guy needs a haircut...



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    Brighty causing trouble. Pushing in to get on the ferry first. Must be my German genes!



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    The ferry was free! The first time in Russia where I was pleasantly surprised at the (literally) lack of cost of something. Everything in Russia, except petrol, is expensive.



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    Pete catching the rays between rainclouds.



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    My bike looking tough, until the going got tough where it retired hurt.


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    Traditional local transport



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    Shamen flags at the Shamen rock



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    Shamen rock at Olkhon Island
    #22
  3. Dickyb

    Dickyb Bewildered Adventurer

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    Enjoying the holiday snaps Chris. :thumb

    Cheers,

    Dickyb
    #23
  4. PHILinFRANCE

    PHILinFRANCE Long timer

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    S W France my little bit of paradise
    Yep proper grand :freaky
    Phil
    #24
  5. Gazz

    Gazz In a rut

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    Stourbridge, UK
    Fantastic Chris :clap
    #25
  6. dave.m

    dave.m n00b

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    Sunderland, NE England, UK
    Great stuff, Chris. Keep it coming...
    #26
  7. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    God's Own County
    Gents
    Many thanks for the kind words!
    #27
  8. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Ch 4 Olkhon Island to Severobaykalsk

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    We left Olkhon Island and joined the main paved road north. About 150 clicks before Zhigalovo the road became dirt. And our first opportunity to admire the mighty Lena river


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    One of many punctures on Jon's KTM. He and Andrew were sponsored by a well-known Czech brand of tyre manufacturer. I think the tyre was just plain shagged and he was trying to coax life out of it that just wasn't there


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    Swapping the back tyre outside the hotel in Zhigalovo


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    Jon, being the great guy he is, changing the front for me, in the garage next to the hotel, as it had started to rain


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    Jon preparing a veritable feast :) In his underpants


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    This is a normal road, with some interesting traffic


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    Adam always has a good eye for an interesting photo




    The Zhigalovo Road up to where it joined the BAM was pretty boring. Long and straight, but it was good to be off the pavement and on the dirt


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    Not short, and not winding


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    After we reached the BAM turn-off to head east, things got more interesting


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    Adam gets his front wheel off the ground ;)


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    The BAM road follows the Baikal-Amur Mainline railway... Some info can be found at Baikal–Amur Mainline - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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    Jon had plenty of opportunity to test the support that propped his bike up


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    And it gave us the opportunity to take in the pleasant views



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    Arriving at the Severobaikalsk hotel the Shed's radiator started expiring. The road hadn't even been that bumpy. It could and would only get worse.
    #28
  9. WesleyDRZ400

    WesleyDRZ400 Adventurer

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    Great photos:thumb
    #29
  10. zandesiro

    zandesiro In rust we trust....

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    Polygyros, Greece...
    Im in!!:lurk
    #30
  11. 545x39

    545x39 Old Fart

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    drowning in the empire's legislation....
    .....also!!
    #31
  12. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    743
    Location:
    God's Own County
    A map of the route between Irkutsk and Severobaykalsk at the northern tip of Lake Baikal

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    Sorry for the horrendous shade of green on the line ;)
    #32
  13. potski

    potski Wiley Wanderer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    In the mountains
    Nice one Chris...looks a stunning area!

    Shame about your pal Bod, trust he's ok now.

    Watching out for the Transalp's demise :D

    Cheers
    Potski :freaky
    #33
  14. DustyRags

    DustyRags Idiot

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    The Beast, California
    In for the follow! Also curious about the demise of the mighty Honda!
    #34
  15. live2ridetahoe

    live2ridetahoe RN

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    Concord, CA
    This looks awesome!! I'm in!!

    JG
    #35
  16. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    I believe he's fine. Back in the UK getting treated well by his gf

    The Trannie never completely "demised". Just retired hurt.

    Great stuff!
    #36
  17. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    743
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    God's Own County
    Ch 5: Severobaykalsk to toasted clutch river

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    Adam: Give the man a map, 2 tins of sardines and 2 tins of Heinz baked beans = Heaven



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    Anti-freeze and rad-sealant. Adam had helped me fix the hole in the rad the night before. That hole held. Other holes appeared virtually daily.



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    Trying to get my bike road worthy



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    Eventually ready to go



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    Group shot



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    Catching dinner



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    This is what you call ground clearance.... And fit for purpose!



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    We bumped into these 3 cool Russian guys from Ekaterinburg(?) who were riding 250 cc thumpers they had bought in Vladivostok home. We couldn't understand why they had been riding for 12 days since Tynda. We reckoned you could do it in 5. How wrong could we be!



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    One of the bikes they bought. Is that a glass bottle strapped to the front of the engine? We told them where they could find our old disguarded tyres in Zhiglovo



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    One of the Russian dudes had a suspected broken ankle. The journey must go on...



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    Andrew chatting with a local chap who had the best set of steel teeth, but I think he knew I was only taking his pic because the teeth, so kept his mouth shut ;)



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    Adam, master-craftsman at work



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    This one wasn't towing a caravan... ;) Sorry, in-joke... Some people know what I'm talking about, hey Kurt/ Felix/ Noah/ Phil/ Mark :)



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    A visitor




    An overview of the (easy) riding conditions that my big shed wasn't really enjoying, leading to a "little" river crossing (which, in comparison to what was to come 500km down the track was an utter piece of p!ss). The suspension on a touring bike like my Trannie (despite my Shed having a rebuilt and stiffened shock and fork springs...) is completely substandard compared to a pukka enduro bike like a DRZ400/ XR400/ orange 690.



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    Move over fat boy, this is how it's done!





    Exhibit A. Did we also mention low ground clearance? Airbox under seat? Chocolate tea-cup clutch?
    #37
  18. JediMaster

    JediMaster Adam Lewis

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    OTR RTW since 2006 (currently in India)
    Ahhh...Chris...

    When Facebook goes 'ping' and I see its another RR entry from you it makes me smile...

    Then I come here, look at the photos, read your comments and that smile breaks into a grin so big you could peel the top of my head open.

    GREAT memories of GREAT riding with a GREAT group (notice I didn't say bunch...ggggrrrrr) of people.

    HI to Pete, Jon and Andrew - I know you're all reading.

    Keep it coming

    Cheers...Adam
    #38
    REALGRAVEROBBER likes this.
  19. 00-SEB-00

    00-SEB-00 Been here awhile

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    from Belgium to the Canary Islands
    Looking forward to the next part.... where you will sell your soul!!!
    :rofl
    #39
  20. Piopio

    Piopio Adventurer

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    I'm in !
    :clap
    #40