Mongolia to Magadan: Any which (the hard) way

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by ChrisUK, Mar 13, 2014.

  1. Santa

    Santa Focused on the Future

    Joined:
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    Barnett in the USA makes a race type clutch kit for the 650 HAWK that drops right into the TA. The existing clutch is too soft, made for the feminine hand it seems.
    Get the kevlar kit and the heavy duty springs and you will never need another clutch.
    Compliments on a most exciting and informative ride report. :clap
  2. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Many thanks for the compliments. Does the 650 Hawk clutch fit a 1988 XL600 Transalp? I just checked the EBC clutch plate part numbers and they're different for the 600 and 650 Transalps.
  3. Santa

    Santa Focused on the Future

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    Contact Barnett directly, I imagine they have something available.
    Cheers!
  4. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Ch 20, The end... or Brighty, Show us yer gulags...

    Right chaps and chapeses

    Let's make this the final instalment. Why?


    • Why not? 20 is a nice round number
    • I got a major monkey off my back, finally after all this planning and en route mishaps (adventures) actually reaching Magadan. This ride report is now taking an awful lot of time that I don't have at the moment. I need to plan this summer's trip and actually get out riding...
    • There isn't really a lot to say. After the fun of Mongolia and the BAM, it was IMHO a pointless boring trudge riding the New Federal Road version of the Road of Bones to Magadan, solo and in sh!te weather and in a big rush to catch flight connections. I should have taken more breaks en route, but didn't have the time, due to work commitments. Oh yeh: The bike is virtually unrideable at less than 30mph/50kmh: No oil in either fork, and totally shagged steering head bearings. Felix had some, but I forgot to blag them off him.

    Many thanks for reading this RR and even bigger thanks if you took the time to comment. Much appreciated.

    See you on the road

    Chris

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    Friendly chap who helps me extract the snapped key from the petrol cap on the bike. He even gives me for free the screwdriver I now use to "lock" it





    The situation I’m in




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    Quite a pleasant view


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    A bridge over a piece of water connecting 2 bits of mud…



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    Luverly jubbly



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    Drink driving?



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    Sunset over the flooded fields



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    The next ferry across the Lena River isn't leaving until tomorrow morning at 7am. So I sleep on the boat. The captain is cool enough to let me sleep in a spare cabin. For free. What a nice man



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    The engine room


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    In the morning they start loading other vehicles…



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    …but we don't leave until noon when the mist/ fog has cleared. I've lost 4 valuable riding hours :-(



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    A trucker and his wife



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    I'm on a new bit of track that was carved out of the mountain side after a huge land slide. It took them 4 days



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    Riding until well after dark every day meant I had the chance to take pictures of sunsets without getting off the bike. At 60 odd degrees north in the summer, it didn't get dark until very late



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    The turn off for the Old Summer Road. In 2013 no motor vehicle made it from here through to Magadan via the OSR



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    The fuel station at the turn off. Phil on the MZ had written his details here a few days ago. I add mine. I wasn't organised enough to print stickers before I left :-)



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    The fuel station



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    After a night camping at the cafe/petrol station at the turnoff: Amongst the crashed/abandoned cars and trucks. That black cloud in the distance was coming my way. I tried to race it, but it was faster than me :-(



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    The highlight of my Road of Bones ride: Near Ust Nera, bumping into Pete Berry and Adam Lewis again. They had made it to Magadan, but transport for themselves and their bikes out of there, was beyond their budget, so they were riding back. Pete rode is XR400 all the way back to the UK. What a man!



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    Landslides have been cleared. In the distance, centre right is where the road came from. This is me looking back. I've just ridden a 1/2 mile detour



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    Lots of abandoned buildings everywhere on my journey. Now an abandoned town. No time to look round as it's getting dark






    Ghost Town by The Specials (1981). The first vinyl record I ever bought

    I don’t visit any gulags, so have no pictures to show. Lack of time, an unfit bike (remember 50kmh min speed…), solo riding and most definitely not in the mood


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    After the ghost town I get to next inhabited town in the dark (11pm?), where my GPS unit says there's a hotel. It's closed. Bollocks. The janitor lady suggests I try elsewhere. They tell me to get lost too. So I head back to the closed hotel and persuade the janitor to let me sleep on the floor in the hallway. Actually, she lets me sleep on the benches in the gym room/waiting room.

    The next morning the hotel owner lady arrives and sees me. She says nothing to me but gives the unfortunate janitor girl a whole load of grief. So I impress owner b!tch with my excellent grasp of Estuary English and head out of town. Only one more day of riding to go....



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    It stopped raining enough to kick up some dust



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    The only fuel station in town



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    I is dirty too :-)



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    A bloody long way to ride to get a picture at a road sign. Bashplate/skidplate, silencer and auxiliary fuel tank are all held on and in place with fencing wire (probably a few cows have since escaped en route...), cable ties and bungee cords



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    I rolled into downtown Magadan at about 10.30 at night. In the rain. (Did I mention it rained a lot?) "Great, there's the hotel", I think to myself. I get off the bike in front of the main entrance and while I'm trying to remove my helmet, this rabid drunk man is preventing me by every means from getting to the hotel door. Oh joy...

    I'll spare the details, but I did "assert" my right to enter the hotel prior to the police taking him jail.


    And I leave you with a song:

  5. DustyRags

    DustyRags Idiot

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    What a ride! Congrats on making it! :freaky
  6. Gazz

    Gazz In a rut

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    Tremendous as ever :clap
    What an unassuming chap you are having kept all this quiet whenever we bump in to you in Wales.
  7. live2ridetahoe

    live2ridetahoe RN

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    Congrats on making it!!!

    JG
  8. tserts

    tserts Chaotic Neutral

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    Hey Chris, it's Yani from Athens, just stumbled upon this by chance..

    Great photoshop man, could've fooled me that you actually went there...

    Loved the story and photos, glad to see you still suffering on 2 wheels, the BMW love affair was a nice touch... Did it actually become more reliable when you were done patching the logo? I might have to try that myself... :lol3

    Take care!
  9. magno

    magno Adventurer

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    38
    As Chris mentioned before the swingarm failure on my bike was down to one reason.

    This is how my bike arrived in Bishkek (over a week late with promises every day it will arrive tomorrow).

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    The journey from Warsaw to Bishkek at the very rear of a large trailer not tied down was not kind to my bike. Particularly annoying as it had only done around 700km from new at this point.

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    The whole back end of the bike is bent to one side - racks, subframe. Every panel is scratched, some ram mounts are broken and the whole front assembly which supports the fairing is bent too. I bend a few bits straight, give the half-wit transport guy a hand gesture which conveys me feeling and set off.

    The first sign of trouble is the burning smell 50km down the road. Bent racks have meant my magadan panniers have melted onto the exhaust taking out a Klim jacket inside. A few twigs wedged between and I'm good to go. But, whilst checking the bike over I notice this:

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    This photo is taken after the swingarm cracked but you can see the point the lower rack mount has hit the swingarm. This happened on a road section shortly after collecting the bike and is because the whole back of the bike is bent out of shape. I ground the mount away to provide clearance but the damage had been done. Castings are just not designed to handle impact loads of that nature.

    To be perfectly honest I was surprised I did another 13,000kms before it broke. And I was very lucky it did not spit me off the bike when it did as it was on a fast open section outside Yakutsk.

    My advice is never, ever use Sambor (advfactory) for anything. It is now nearly 12 months later and despite promises to pay for the damages to the bike I have had nothing but excuses.

    I understand trips don't always go to plan - that is the adventure we look for. But when you are denied realising your dreams due to incompetence on someone else's part then I think you have the right to be slightly angry.
  10. sasho

    sasho Dual Personality

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    Awesome report!!! Are you gonna write about your ride in Bulgaria?
  11. gen

    gen Been here awhile

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    That is terrible.

    You should start a new thread to warn others about this firm. ADV has pretty good SEO so if you have a thread titled with the firm's name and to warn others against using them, that should hurt their online reputation quite a bit.
  12. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Glad you like this RR. Hopefully I'll do a BG RR if I can find the time. This coming winter?

    I'm doing another little south eastern Europe (and south west Europe) trip this summer: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=987487
  13. Krixos

    Krixos MZer

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    40
    Hi Gary , Phil here- was nice to meet you also. Mind if I borrow your photo for my album? Hopefully see you in Australia some time.
  14. Krixos

    Krixos MZer

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    Hi Felix, must have been devastating. But I must admit that looking at the trip report and the great photos you had obviously covered all the very best riding of the trip and the remaining trip to Magadan would have been quite boring in comparision (unless you could manage the Old Summer Route component). But I well understand that everyone wants to be able to ride inot Magadan for closure.

    See you in Australia sometime1
  15. Bob

    Bob Formerly H20Pumper

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    Awesome report!
    Thanks
  16. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Glad you liked it Bob.
  17. Mara Loochezarny

    Mara Loochezarny Been here awhile

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    In fact, this way has really exhausting roads. Especially river wades. Respect!:clap
  18. Dashbaw

    Dashbaw Fat Old Guy

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    Great report! Chris, enjoy the RBA. By the time you refit there will not be any BMW parts left anyway. Pop the decals, paint it, enjoy.

    David
  19. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the kind words. We may have briefly met in 2012: I shipped my Transalp (prior to swapping onto the RBA/XChallenge) with a group of Dutch guys to Almaty. One of people's wife(?) rented a DR650 from you. The 2012 RR is at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828973

    Funny you should mention painting the RBA David. I've now fitted black and gold 48mm WP forks and black rims to the bike. Hence it makes perfect sense to paint the plastics black too. Can't decide between replacing the blue/white roundels with John Player Special or Johnnie Walker Black Label stickers. I'm tending towards the JW as I don't want to be seen to be supporting cigarette smoking :evil
  20. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    could also put a Cz or jawa or similiar,how about a Greeves sticker just to confuse the confused.