Posted this in the TE630 thread and thought I'd share it down here also. The specifics won't apply to other bikes but the concept will. I'm at 12,500 miles now, decided it's time for a good check-up during the off season. Going over the wiring, subframe, valve check, clutch basket, fork oil, coolant, oil, spark plug. May clean the injector and put in a new clutch pack. It's been on my mind for a couple years to swap the stock SCR shunt type voltage regulator for a MOS-FET unit from a late model Yamaha so picked up a used one from a wrecked '16 FJR1300 on Ebay for $50. Shindengen FH020AA (Yamaha 1D7-81960-01-00) is the part. It's a little larger than stock but I think it will fit on the subframe near the stock location. Also requires a bit of re-wiring, I'll post more pics when I get that far. [Maybe worth explaining... The stock "SCR shunt" r/r is drawing full power from the stator at all time and shunting the unneeded power to ground. The FJR1300 was one of the first bikes to switch to a MOS-FET shunt style where the stator is still running at 100% but the voltage is much better controlled. The bike will now consistently charge at 14+ volts (less is being shunted) and the voltage won't drop as the bike revs up. I debated going with the even newer "series" style r/r from the '16 DL1000 (Shindengen SH847AA), it only draws the current that the bike is actually using and is much easier on stators. It's a big sucker though (4.5x4.5x1.75) and would be tough to mount IMO.] Make sure it's a FH020AA and not a FH012AA Found something I suspected I might in the wiring harness. The stator wires at the plug above the engine showed brown heat discoloration on the regulator side of the plug. After some effort I got it unplugged and found melting inside. Even though the connectors don't look corroded it's a resistance point and heat builds up. This is pretty common on motorcycles and will be alleviated somewhat with the new MOS-FET regulator and removing this plug. It's always bothered me that the stator/CPS wires ran up the front, right next to the headers. They are going to get re-routed to the new regulator wherever it ends up. The mosfet unit is too big to fit in the stock location so I'm going to mount it on the opposite side of the subframe. The side cover fits back on perfectly without touching the regulator. When totally done, I'll secure it with stainless zip-ties (or may have my welder attach a plate there while he fixes my battery box). This regulator is designed for ~600 watts and this bike is 365 so it will be very under stressed in this application, I have no concerns about heat dissipation. A big advantage of this location is the stator wires (once the melted plug is cut off) will reach the regulator without lengthening the wires. You'll need to slit the protective cover and fold the CPS wires back to their plug and re-tape the covering. Secured the wires away from the exhaust (may add some heat-proof sheathing). CPS wires in upper right. Next I pulled the regulator end of the harness to the left side of the bike and cut off the plug. The regulator plug was nearly toast. The insulation was brittle and cracked. I was on borrowed time with this charging system. I slit the harness open and pulled the yellow wires out. The only wire you need here is the red wire to feed the bike harness. While the harness was open I added a second red 12ga wire that will go straight to the battery. With everything connected. There are two 12ga wires going to the positive terminal and one 10ga ground that goes straight to the battery. For now the new power and ground twisted together. Lots of maintenance items left before putting it all back together. After removing my subframe to weld the battery box I put everything back together. I'm happy with how everything fits and the efficiency of the wiring layout. With the bike running I now have a dead steady 14.3 volts at idle or revved up. Very, very happy with this! I don't expect to have charging system issues with this bike for a long time. So this is how it finished up. I did make a heat shield to protect the RR from the exhaust system. Will remove the shield an hit it w/ a coat of barbecue paint. .