Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Moto Bellissima: All Other Dualsports' started by young skywalker, Jan 8, 2006.
great thread this with some very usefull info
I'm coming around
I really have no complaints about the fueling, mine runs very good. But I'm at elevation and a slightly lean condition is not a bad thing. It's encouraged.
I can see where improvements can be made now that I have a few miles on the bike. I know that slightly richer/correct fueling will help it run cooler too.
My upcoming 18 day ride will include a bit of everything, including mountains, cool dense coastal weather, and a couple of state's worth of August desert riding.
Conditions like that have me thinking more about correct fueling than a performance increase. If it improves what I consider already very good throttle response, that'll be a bonus. Overall I think it will be money very well spent.
The PC-V w/ the O2 optimizer will improve things and not affect the warranty (or can be taken off easily if there is an issue)...has me thinking that is the route to go.
Does the PC-V come with a preloaded map (2010 Stelvio A8 motor), or do I need to fidget with it once installed? My bike runs well, but correcting the fueling is never a bad thing
18k+ miles and no issues; but what the hell, I wanna blow some money on her.
Excellent point Deano. I hadn't thought about Todd's modified ECU voiding the warranty, which I'm sure it would. The PCV w/ Autotune is somewhat "self-calibrating", but only for the 4k rpm range and above. To get the whole enchilada, it looks like you need to weld the DynoJet O2 optimizer sensors into the header in addition to the existing sensors, which I assume would also void your warranty.
I don't think you can get there from here.....
Found the connector, found the hot (green) and gnd (blue/black) and wired in my Touratech w/ Garmin mount. No workie. I'm getting 10.5v from the bike's GPS wires and I assume that's just too low for my Zumo, which wants to see 12v. Does the bike have to be RUNNING for the power to reach the right levels, or should key -> on be good enough?
There is a difference between the O2 optimizer and the Autotune...
If I am reading correctly: Autotune requires a new O2 sensor drilled in (if using stock ECU), where as the O2 optimizer simply plugs into the harness in line with the O2 sensor. Easy to remove, and effectively fattens up the bottom (less than 40% throttle) application.
The PC-V take care of more than 40% throttle...
See here: http://forum.guzzitech.com/forum/208/5950.html
Hopefully someone smarter than me will chime in as I like the O2 optimizer idea, but have no idea how to map a PC.
Ah...right you are.
I wonder when the good folks at Cobra Engineering are going to make their Fi2000 for Guzzis? ("Never" is the likely answer.....)
THAT'S my kind of programmer....one I don't have to touch and it figures all this mumbo jumbo out for me.
I fitted a power commander with the autotune module. You do need to fit a broad spectrum o2 sensor as the stock ones are a very narrow band width. I got fantastic results with plug and play. I opened up the airbox by drilling holes in and put on a mistral pipe. Seriously awesome bike now. I can't see how the Fi2000 would be able to tune your bike with such a lousy read out from the stock 02 sensor. The autotune module is the key to successfully tuning the guzzi. My 2010 Guzzi NTX runs rings around the 2012 model. It's smoother, more powerful, more linear and has gobs of torque. It feels like a turbine. Do yourself a favour and don't hold back. You will love your bike so much more again.
The 2012 NTX picked up another O2 sensor....there are two now.
Futzed with it some more, still not working, engine running or not.
Can someone else confirm the voltage coming from the bike's dedicated GPS wires? I thought it odd that I was only getting 10.5v and thought maybe the engine needed to be running to bring it up to 12v+, but nope, still 10.5v and my Zumo won't recognize external power with it that low.
Isn't it specifically designed for a TomTom GPS? Maybe they use 10V.
I'd suggest using that 10.5V to control a relay that can switch fused 12V power directly from the battery to your GPS.
Good thought. I might have to do that but I was pretty sure others have connected their Garmin directly to these wires with no issues.
Pre-loaded map: Only if it comes from me. I have an extensive library of most all Guzzis back to '00, including most all mods any one would want to make. Dynojet never built a map for a '10 U.S. model. Their UK division did for a stock only, which does not work well on the U.S. spec bike, with U.S. spec fuels.
Happy to be of help in getting you one, contact me direct e-mail please; Todd at GuzziTech.com
Yes, any mod will void the warranty, but the fact that they deliver them the way they do and still honor the warranty is more amazing to me.
ECU wise, (if you leave everything intact) the dealer (on the Navigator software) will only see it as "non-current map, update available."
On the PC-V/02-opt or AutoTune, all of them can be easily removed if/as needed. If you use only the PC-V/02-Opt, you do not have to weld anything, as the 02-opt is a sensor intercept (plugs into the stock 02-sensor). If you want to add AutoTune, then you would have to weld in a bung, but dynamic fueling would only happen above 40% throttle & 5500 RPM. If you use my ECU, you can remove the stock sensor and replace with the AutoTune wideband sensor (no need to weld) with the PC-V (and no 02-optimizer), and get dynamic fueling from idle to redline at all RPMs and throttle positions.
Really the benefits FAR outweigh the negatives IMO and experience. I have well over 250k miles on PC'ed Guzzis to date. Zero issues. In fact my (bought new) '00 Jackal has 150k of those, the vast majority of those miles were with a PC... and for those who know me, none of them have been mellow. In fact it won't run without it these days due to all of my mods;
Hope that helps clarify.
Many Garmin GPS devices can be powered via USB. USB power is only 5V, so there should be a way to make it work.
ROFL! Very good point Todd.
I was just thinking the other day, "what would I do if my new car/truck ran like my new bike?". I'd drive it straight back to my dealer and say "WTF?!?!" Yet somehow, here we are with bikes that run HOT, surge, won't idle consistently, stumble off idle (or just die), etc, and we're told by dealers (with a straight face mind you!), "oh that's just how they run from the factory because of pollution laws". :huh Someone is pullin' my schwinkie, and not in a good way....
My Stelvio is loosening up a bit and doesn't seem any better/worse than previous new bikes I've owned/ridden from BMW, KTM, Yamaha, Ducati, or any of the others, but that doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement.
Hopefully Kirb will chime in, because I see he wired his Garmin Zumo in to the same wires I'm using and he didn't mention having to use them as a switching source for a relay, indicating he's running straight off the bike's GPS wiring.
Mr Kirb to the white paging telephone please.....
why don't you just run it directly to a 12v source?
dedicated wiring is cool for some things, but if all you need is 12v...
I may have to, but from my post above, it looks like someone else used the dedicated GPS wiring w/ their Zumo and got it to work, so I'd like to try that first. If it won't, I'll just wire in my old BlueSeas fuse box and grab 12v from it.
I connected to the tom-tom wires and had battery voltage. Everything works fine. Wire colors were green/blue. My zumo 550 works great here. Turns on with the bike, turns off with the bike after 30 seconds.
You didn't grab the heated grip connector, did you?