Longest arched, aluminum ramp you can buy, and a wide, 2' alum step ladder to step onto as you transition into the bed. My tailgate (factory F150) is approx. 35". Too damn Hightower make loading easy. Next truck will be lower, even if it is a smaller truck or a RWD. I would never attempt to load my big bike into the bed of my truck, due to its length relative to the bed, its colossal weight, and me just not having the strength. Scooters, dual-sports, and the TU250 are OK though.
I split between a pickup and a trailer depending on the variables. I have a 2wd which means a lower loading height to start with. For my pickup the attached shot is my preferred load point. I put the rear wheels in a depression or gutter and use a long ramp. If I bought a new ramp I would likely go with a https://readyramp.com/ dual role setup as I do not like the loss of all that storage space with fatter ramps. Everything is a compromise of course.
For dirt bikes into the back my pre-runner Tacoma, I use a harbor freight tri fold ATV ramp And it takes up a bunch of bed space, if I can I use my single rail but that's only if I know where I'm unloading and loading For the 1-ton the Tri fold ramp is stretched unless I back up to a tall curb, I'm going to be looking for a better ramp. For street bikes, all bets are off. while both of my trucks are stock they both come tall from the factory without a curved ramp, or a high curb I'm going to hit the bike on break over from the ramp to the bed. I know some folks who've had decent luck with the be extended ramp combos and since I have to have the gate down if I'm hauling two bikes in the Taco (the 1-ton has an 8 foot bed) That ramp/extender seems like a nifty solution to the ramp storage solution.
If this refers to my Sharkkage post, the ramps are arched. Into my F150 (2011) 4X4, neither my Valkyrie nor my ST1300 come close to touching the bed or ramp when riding them up from level ground. (I weight 287#)
Nope I was talking about products like ready ramps. but without a recurve on the ramp, a tall truck and a low bike and you run the risk of smacking the underside of the bike, I now drop the truck's rear wheels into a gutter or at least a drainage swale every time I load/unload.
I've been using a tri-fold aluminum ATV ramp when hauling my enduro in the back of the truck and forgoing the trailer. I lock it in with a Condor track stand along with two winch straps hooked midway back on the frame. Have yet to haul a bike over 330 lbs like this however using the tri-fold for loading/unloaded but have loaded 4x4 atvs at 600lbs plus without issue. I'm planning on hauling my MV Agusta in the back as opposed to trailering 1000 miles each way next month. Key is getting the back truck tires in a low spot to minimize the tail gate height and reduce the angle of the ramp going up.
I built a front wheel chock for carrying my scooter in truck bed then found it served no purpose that straps couldn't achieve and easier. It's different story on a tilt trailer where I ride on and into the chock to keep bike under control. Pushing the scoot on is easy. Placing the rear wheel diagonal is a grunt that may become harder as I age further and mean a bigger, stronger helper too. I don't like the ramp above given the big empty spaces between the rungs. Might work great for an ATV/mower but otherwise not my choice. I'd rather have less width and better foot placement. Just my opinion. My experience is that when your in areas like state parks there are lots of places to load/unload. One park in FL I used a big pothole in a woodsy parking lot of sand then found an even better place inside the campground just past my campsite. 6-8" makes a lot of difference using a depression with a full size 4x4 truck. Even better is a short steep slope that you can back up to, assuming access to the upper area.
Lighten up Francis. You just resurrected a thread that has been dead for almost a year to complain about thread drift, yet you added nothing to the discussion yourself?