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Discussion in 'Photos' started by dave6253, May 10, 2012.
Nice! Still looks natural, but pops.
I really like this style (and yours in particular Dave). I read about HDR after hearing about it being used in games, and seeing the option on my phone camera, but your examples explained it much better. I'm a fan of the sharp contrast and hyper-real look.
HDR in my iPhone isn't even close to this quality. ..
I'll add one.... my first post on this forum.
Dave, first off love your pics and everyones contributions. I've loved Alcan Riders stuff for years and had no idea they were HDR, but I didn't know about HDR until I just finished your RR on your Alaska trip. So if I'm reading you correctly to do HDR you need to bracket 3 to 5 frames of the same shot. This must be done with a tripod correct? And then you put them through an HDR process in photomatix? Is that the steps or is there more to it. Also you must need a DSLR camera to do the bracketing, and is it done with the F stop or shutter speed? We've been looking a buying a Canon T3i camera, would that do the job? Sorry for all the questions but this has got me fired up and ready to try it. Thanks to anyone that can reply.
From what I can see the T3i has exposure bracketing. (from: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/T3I/T3IA5.HTM)
More than 4/5ths of my HDR shots are hand held. Many of the software packages have exposure alignment.
As I am also a Canon shooter, we are stuck with 3 exposures from a stock camera (except I think the 1D's and maybe the 5D ??) And 3 exposures is fine.
Now on many of the Canon's you can install Magic Lantern, I have it on my 50D, and it will give you a lot more flexibility, and more exposures, but they is a slightly longer time gap between exposures. It is nice have 5 exposures over 3-5 f-stops. You can pick and choose 2-5 exposures for processing depending on what you want out the final image.
They do have support for the T3i http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified
My other body is a 7D, which is limited to 3 exposures, but, the 7D is a fast camera, and I like the fact the 3 exposures are very close together.
If you are interested in trying HDR, the camera doesn't matter. Getting the right software and learning to use it is. Once you know you want a camera that can handle auto-brackets I recommend finding a camera that will do at least 5 frames at 2 E/V apart. 3 frames is enough for the majority of shots, but 5 will allow you to point directly into the sun. The photo below is an HDR from a single exposure as we discussed earlier in the thread. I took this one this afternoon with an Olympus PEN. It supposedly does "auto-brackets", but only 3 frames up to 1 E/V apart. Then you must confirm focus and press the shutter button between each frame. This is not very automatic and getting handheld photos to line up are more difficult. The only time I tried to merge brackets from this camera to HDR, they didn't line up. I actually thought I was shooting a bracket here, but took 3 of the exact same exposures accidentally. The single frame HDR method does not recover all of the blown highlights, as the photo below illustrates. With my Pentax K-5 the autobrakets fire very quickly from one shutter button press, and geting the software to auto-align handheld brackets is rarely a problem. I only use a tripod when the shutter speeds fall below 1/60th sec or so. Because some of the frames are over-exposed the shutter speed can frequently get too low for hand-holding.
I worked hard all weekend and got all of the maintenance and repairs done on the KTM. I took it out for a ride for the first time since our Alaskan Journey. It rained so much I thought I was back up north, instead of the desert.
Yes, I recommend Photomatix Pro. You can find a coupon code for 15% off if you do a search.
I think here should be more steps after Photomatix. I always finish processing in Lightroom. The HDR process creates noise. I always do noise reduction, sharpen, adjust color, crop, and any other touch-up needed after Photomatix.
Whether the camera is adjusting aperture, ISO or shutter sheed for the brackets depends on what camera mode you are shooting in. I usually shoot brackets in Aperture Priority and the camera brackets using the shutter speed. Allowing the camera to bracket with the aperture may affect depth of field from one shot to another. That could get interesting, and may cause problems with alignment.
There is a new alpha version of ML for the 7d that has working HDR features. So I am now free to expand to more than 3 exposures. Just in case there is anyone else out there with a 7D, or is thinking of getting one as prices of previously enjoyed units are fairly reasonable.
Harley hunting at Deal's Gap
Nice one buddoggin. Welcome to the forum.
Great job Katoom119!
That's awesome, BarKnee.
I'm also enjoying your HDR photo's Dave, and the thread in general - I've kept dipping into it from time to time. I seem to remember reading somewhere that you can create a number of different exposure values from a single RAW image. Does that sound right? I've just bought a Nikon D5100 and it's the first camera I've had that'll shoot RAW (NEF) images, so I'll have to do some research and experiment from there.
The HDR simulation from my iPhone is, frankly, rubbish. But for those with Photoshop CS5, 5.5. or 6 (I don't know if previous versions have it) there is the HDR Toning feature in the Image > Adjustments menu. It has a number of useful presets (e.g. High Contrast Photorealistic, High Contrast Monochrome, etc.) but these can be adjusted and altered at will.
EDIT/UPDATE: Additional info from http://www.flickr.com/groups/raw2hdr/
"About HDR from a single RAW
To get the best from HDR (High Dynamic Range) images one should really plan ahead and use bracketed exposures right from the camera.
Sometimes however this is not possible, such as in action shots, or perhaps you merely wish to rescue a shot that has under or overexposed areas that can't be corrected by other means. If you shoot in RAW, as I do, you can create bracketed exposures from a single RAW file and use these to produce HDR images. Perhaps not as good as HDRs planned and executed from start to finish but certainly good enough to rescue a shot you like that suffers from exposure problems."
So, as you say Dave, bracketed exposure is the best way to go but it's also possible from a single image too, with some preprocessing to give you 3 or 5 (or whatever) images from a single shot.